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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 11:19:43 GMT -6
I've been on this forum for a couple of months and I've been impressed with the opinions of its members. I don't think I've seen this question posted anywhere else on the forum, and it might be unanswerable, but here goes:
What is the next pair of jeans I should buy? Some background:
I'm a relative newcomer to selvedge denim. The only pair of selvedge jeans I own are tellasons in cone denim, I think 13 oz. They are wearing in great...super comfortable with great fades and are about 4 years old. I can't wear jeans to work, so I don't need a huge arensal of denim, but I'd like to expand my options a bit. I'd like to stick to traditional indigo with a medium weight, prefer around 14 oz...nothing more than 16 oz. I would also prefer made in USA, but I'm OK with Japanese (or Italian) fabric. Cost isn't really an issue, but I'm not sure I want to shell out $350 for a pair of Roys. I'd like a slimmer fit, with a little bit of a taper to the bottom of the leg. Definitely not skinny though. I've considered Gustin, but I kind of like the idea of a brand that makes their jeans in house. Ciano is the obvious choice I suppose; I have a pair of chinos from Ciano Farmer in the slim cut that I really like and I'm OK with waiting a few months, but I was wondering if anyone else here had any great ideas.
There you have it selvedgestyle. Let me know. Also let me know if I left out any important information you need to provide guidance.
On a separate note, how do (some of) you guys have so many pairs of jeans? Even if I wore jeans every day, I don't think I could own more than 5 or 6 pairs and still wear them with any frequency. Do you have stacks of denim that goes unworn for weeks at a time? No judgement, just curious.
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 11:24:09 GMT -6
Why not get something truly interesting? In your weight range, PBJ's from Denimio would be my choice. Really interesting fades, tapered fit, unique denim.
Some folks are more about acquiring than fading. I'd imagine a few forum members will die with unworn jeans on fancy hangers.
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Post by devastitis on Nov 19, 2015 11:34:51 GMT -6
In house is definitely nice, because of the relatively customized fit and options, but for me, at least among some of the brands, their fabric options does nothing for me. Are you looking to stick with just indigo, or are you interested in expanding your warp color options as well? I've been wearing my G Downtown Browns pretty much every day, and am looking to pull the trigger on some Zimb cotton IndigoxBlacks.
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Post by davelewis on Nov 19, 2015 11:45:29 GMT -6
I'd say if you really like the slim cut Ciano offers, that would be a good choice to go with. He has denims in stock that are in your wheelhouse, and if you don't mind waiting, might be the best bang for your buck.
I've three pair of denim, that cover the weight spectrum, and for me is plenty, as I've several pair of ducks, chinos, etc. Although there are a plethora of interesting denims out there, there just isn't enough time to wear in 5-10-15 pairs, and like you say, I don't want to have a stack of jeans waiting to get into the game. BUT, if one dubs themselves a "collector", then you can acquire as many pair as you want, lol.
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Post by exophobe on Nov 19, 2015 11:50:48 GMT -6
I've been on this forum for a couple of months and I've been impressed with the opinions of its members. I don't think I've seen this question posted anywhere else on the forum, and it might be unanswerable, but here goes: What is the next pair of jeans I should buy? Some background: I'm a relative newcomer to selvedge denim. The only pair of selvedge jeans I own are tellasons in cone denim, I think 13 oz. They are wearing in great...super comfortable with great fades and are about 4 years old. I can't wear jeans to work, so I don't need a huge arensal of denim, but I'd like to expand my options a bit. I'd like to stick to traditional indigo with a medium weight, prefer around 14 oz...nothing more than 16 oz. I would also prefer made in USA, but I'm OK with Japanese (or Italian) fabric. Cost isn't really an issue, but I'm not sure I want to shell out $350 for a pair of Roys. I'd like a slimmer fit, with a little bit of a taper to the bottom of the leg. Definitely not skinny though. I've considered Gustin, but I kind of like the idea of a brand that makes their jeans in house. Ciano is the obvious choice I suppose; I have a pair of chinos from Ciano Farmer in the slim cut that I really like and I'm OK with waiting a few months, but I was wondering if anyone else here had any great ideas. There you have it selvedgestyle. Let me know. Also let me know if I left out any important information you need to provide guidance. On a separate note, how do (some of) you guys have so many pairs of jeans? Even if I wore jeans every day, I don't think I could own more than 5 or 6 pairs and still wear them with any frequency. Do you have stacks of denim that goes unworn for weeks at a time? No judgement, just curious. I think Ciano is a great route given your criteria, and if you get in on one of the Texas selvedge batches you'll get something entirely US made, but still unique (and you are already familiar with the fit. If you're feeling adventurous, take a look at Denimio and focus on brands like Momotaro, PBJ (like Bentin said -- and if this is your first rodeo, know that PBJ is Pure Blue Japan and not Blue Japan which is a different brand which is also different from Blue Blue Japan), and Samurai, and see which one has a fit that lines up with what you're looking for. Something like "Tight Straight" is what you're looking for. Iron Heart is also dropping a 14 or 16oz early next year if you're patient, many people around here wouldn't hesitate to suggest anything they make. Japan Blue is inexpensive but about as interesting as Unbranded, from what I've gleaned. Working in an office that allows jeans (or can't tell because you're wearing Japanese denim they've never heard of) is the way to get through so many pairs, as you don't want crazy fades and the variety helps with hiding that you're wearing jeans daily. Standard indigo with contrast thread gets pretty obvious in this scenario. A strong aversion to chinos also leads to reckless denim purchases. |
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:12:18 GMT -6
Naively, I never considered denim being a collectors item, but I suppose I should have. It reminds me of old episodes of Cribs on MTV when you'd see some rapper show off his walk in closet full of sneakers.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:14:22 GMT -6
In house is definitely nice, because of the relatively customized fit and options, but for me, at least among some of the brands, their fabric options does nothing for me. Are you looking to stick with just indigo, or are you interested in expanding your warp color options as well? I've been wearing my G Downtown Browns pretty much every day, and am looking to pull the trigger on some Zimb cotton IndigoxBlacks. I'm up for expanding color, but probably just on weft. Something in the gray, beige would be OK. |
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 13:19:24 GMT -6
Oni XXBE? Momotaro 0702BR? The Strike Gold Mud Wefts?
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Post by exophobe on Nov 19, 2015 13:27:58 GMT -6
Oni XXBE? Momotaro 0702BR? The Strike Gold Mud Wefts? I stayed away from Oni cause they tend to do some crazy stuff with their denim alt hat seemed a bit out of his wheelhouse, but they're certainly a solid option as well. |
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:33:13 GMT -6
Oni XXBE? Momotaro 0702BR? The Strike Gold Mud Wefts? Again, forgive my naivete, but what is it about Japanese denim? The denim itself? Some kind of special cut/construction? A little bit of both? Would you rather have the most amazing Japanese denim with so-so fit and contruction or visa versa? (I say this as I read my Gustin email with the okayama standard drop) Also, if fit is the primary concern, maybe I should be trying these things on before I buy them. I live in the Twin Cities and there are a number of quality denim purveyors. Sorry for all the questions, but having read this forum for awhile, I don't think anyone will mind opining on these matters at some length  |
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Post by devastitis on Nov 19, 2015 13:42:38 GMT -6
Oni XXBE? Momotaro 0702BR? The Strike Gold Mud Wefts? Again, forgive my naivete, but what is it about Japanese denim? The denim itself? Some kind of special cut/construction? A little bit of both? Would you rather have the most amazing Japanese denim with so-so fit and contruction or visa versa? (I say this as I read my Gustin email with the okayama standard drop) Also, if fit is the primary concern, maybe I should be trying these things on before I buy them. I live in the Twin Cities and there are a number of quality denim purveyors. Sorry for all the questions, but having read this forum for awhile, I don't think anyone will mind opining on these matters at some length measure your best fitting pair and match the measurements against the fit guides of our suggested denims. We're just tossing you options. If the fits of the suggested denims don't work then we wouldn't recommend you to buy them just because they're made by x or y brand. |
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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 19, 2015 13:43:34 GMT -6
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 13:50:06 GMT -6
I have a few pairs of Cone denim, it's good stuff. But I greatly prefer Japanese denim. By and large, the Japanese are trying to recreate pre-war denim. They use lower tension, heavier weights and uneven tension to create more interesting, less uniform denim. There are extremes like the Oni Secret denim or PBJ, but there are lots of options between those and a standard Cone.
I also prefer the added texture and fit potential of unsanforized denim and the direct pricing from Japan on Rakuten is appealingly cheaper than shopping Tellason, Rogue Territory, 3 Sixteen, Left Field or Rail Car. Those brands all do some cool stuff, but the Japanese do too, frequently for less money.
It's great to be able to try things on. But even when I have, in hindsight, I haven't always got my sizing perfect. I'm learning to buy uncomfortably tight when new, especially with lower tension, because it's going to stretch plenty. And a warm soak will do wonders to loose jeans.
Find a brand that seems interesting to you and then narrow it down to a pair you really like. We're all in this for different reasons. I'm covered in normal, contrast stitching denim. 11oz, 12.5oz, 14oz and 22oz. So I'd like some indigo x black, like either the Momo 0702BL or the PBJ XX012's.
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Post by quick on Nov 19, 2015 14:07:43 GMT -6
If you can wait until the end of the weekend, i'll have fit pics of my oni 417xxbe.
they are awesome
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 14:08:45 GMT -6
I have a few pairs of Cone denim, it's good stuff. But I greatly prefer Japanese denim. By and large, the Japanese are trying to recreate pre-war denim. They use lower tension, heavier weights and uneven tension to create more interesting, less uniform denim. There are extremes like the Oni Secret denim or PBJ, but there are lots of options between those and a standard Cone. I also prefer the added texture and fit potential of unsanforized denim and the direct pricing from Japan on Rakuten is appealingly cheaper than shopping Tellason, Rogue Territory, 3 Sixteen, Left Field or Rail Car. Those brands all do some cool stuff, but the Japanese do too, frequently for less money. It's great to be able to try things on. But even when I have, in hindsight, I haven't always got my sizing perfect. I'm learning to buy uncomfortably tight when new, especially with lower tension, because it's going to stretch plenty. And a warm soak will do wonders to loose jeans. Find a brand that seems interesting to you and then narrow it down to a pair you really like. We're all in this for different reasons. I'm covered in normal, contrast stitching denim. 11oz, 12.5oz, 14oz and 22oz. So I'd like some indigo x black, like either the Momo 0702BL or the PBJ XX012's. That's great advice bentin, thanks. I know there are some threads here on ordering through Rakuten that I could look over, but it does seem a little intimidating. I'll go back to the Gustin Okayama standard...would that fit the bill for you denim-wise (ie lower tension, other interesting Japanese qualities) or does the (at least perceived) lower quality construction make it not worth it? I guess these are philosophical questions, but ones I can't help asking. |
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 14:13:47 GMT -6
Oh, I'm not smart, don't go inflating my ego.
No on the Okayama Standards. They're actually one of the tighter weaves I own. The good news is that a hot wash and machine dry really worked well to slim them up and keep them that way. I can hot wash my Oni, but a few wears later and they'll be stretched right back out. I do actually really like the Oki denim though, the cross hatching and really bright blue fades are pretty nice.
Rakuten is easy, but a little intimidating. Rodeo Brothers is probably the easiest starting point for Rakuten, they even have a button to translate to English. Denimio is a little easier, and so is Okayama Denim. One note about all of those, stick to US or UK sites for sizing info, the Japanese sites take weird measurements.
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Post by kylepa on Nov 19, 2015 14:16:42 GMT -6
I noticed that you said you prefer American made and that almost everyone suggested Japanese brands. My two cents. Rogue Territory x Blue Owl Workshop Expedition SK. They're indigo 14 oz Japanese fabric, unsanforized, amazing slubbing texture and made in the U.S. www.blueowl.us/products/expedition-sk-14oz-unsanforized-selvedge-denim?variant=7121223617I, like you, don't need tons of jeans and have to dress business casual during the week so I have 2 pairs of indigo denim (Gustin Zimbabwe and the expedition) and the aforementioned Gustin downtown brown. |
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 14:19:53 GMT -6
I own and like Rogue Territory jeans and love that they're getting more unique Nihon Menpu denims. It just tends to be cheaper getting Japanese denim directly from Japanese manufacturers. If the higher price of RgT doesn't bother you and you prefer made in the USA, by all means, they're good stuff. The 17oz with green selvedge they're dropping soon look great, but might be heavier than what you want.
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Post by DigDug on Nov 19, 2015 14:22:58 GMT -6
The Gustin Ok's are great. Wearing mine today. One of my best faded pair. It seems from what other members have posted, that they lose some of the character if they are washed frequently. Here's mine with a 100+- wears and 4,5 hand washes  So the Gustin Ok's are nice. If you want American Made Denim in house construction with a cult fallowing - RailCar Fine Goods. You may want to also wait for Iron Heart to release the 14oz. |
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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 19, 2015 14:27:33 GMT -6
or take a look at Ande Whall's stuff. I wasn't sold on his jeans at first but then bugula posted pics of his new special roll SR13's which look fantastic. been eyeing those on his site for the past few days now. $265 smackers though
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Post by DigDug on Nov 19, 2015 14:28:31 GMT -6
This is how a collection happens.
You can't decide so you back a pair of Gustins thinking they will be the one, you get impatient and the IH are released so you buy those also.
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Post by bugula on Nov 19, 2015 14:37:17 GMT -6
as a finger was pointed my way regarding collecting...i will say that you don't know what brands have to offer in terms of fit and details until you give them a shot. that's one reason someone could end up with enough jeans to clothe a town.
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Post by bugula on Nov 19, 2015 14:39:45 GMT -6
or take a look at Ande Whall's stuff. I wasn't sold on his jeans at first but then bugula posted pics of his new special roll SR13's which look fantastic. been eyeing those on his site for the past few days now. $265 smackers though well, take shipping out of that picture and it becomes more like $215. still...ouch. but expedited international shipping is factored into his price. |
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Post by Old26 on Nov 19, 2015 14:45:10 GMT -6
This is how a collection happens. You can't decide so you back a pair of Gustins thinking they will be the one, you get impatient and the IH are released so you buy those also. Yeah, talk to the leather jacket guys... We're laughing at a thread now on TFL where the collections are getting crazy. |
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 14:46:41 GMT -6
Completely unrelated to my original question, but I feel like this thread is answering all my denim queries: How do you keep the leather patch from turning blue after a soak? Wax? Just live with it?
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