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Post by devastitis on Nov 19, 2015 14:46:43 GMT -6
The Gustin Ok's are great. Wearing mine today. One of my best faded pair. It seems from what other members have posted, that they lose some of the character if they are washed frequently. Here's mine with a 100+- wears and 4,5 hand washes So the Gustin Ok's are nice. If you want American Made Denim in house construction with a cult fallowing - RailCar Fine Goods. You may want to also wait for Iron Heart to release the 14oz. now I'm tempted to back the Okayamas to replace the ones I sold.
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 14:53:01 GMT -6
The Gustin Ok's are great. Wearing mine today. One of my best faded pair. It seems from what other members have posted, that they lose some of the character if they are washed frequently. Here's mine with a 100+- wears and 4,5 hand washes So the Gustin Ok's are nice. If you want American Made Denim in house construction with a cult fallowing - RailCar Fine Goods. You may want to also wait for Iron Heart to release the 14oz. now I'm tempted to back the Okayamas to replace the ones I sold. The remain my favorite Gustin purchase.
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Post by DigDug on Nov 19, 2015 14:59:07 GMT -6
Completely unrelated to my original question, but I feel like this thread is answering all my denim queries: How do you keep the leather patch from turning blue after a soak? Wax? Just live with it? Personally i consider any change on the patch as part of the Evo. Shrink, fade, darken, wrinkle, crook, etc just part of the story. But if I wanted it to stay the same I'd try putting on some Obenaufs LP leather care on it.
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Post by jeffr0 on Nov 19, 2015 15:04:09 GMT -6
I also was researching denim jeans entirely made in the U.S.A. Besides Roy and Ciano. already mentioned. I found these other small denim companies/craftsmen. In no particular order. W.H.Ranch dungarees. Feltraiger denim. Raleigh denim. Ruell and Ray denim. Dyer and Jenkins denim.
Rising Sun jeans. Blue Delta jeans. Hartford denim company. Detroit denim company. Railcar fine goods.
Also two denim companies that post on this Selvedge& Style forum. Indigogene and Clutch Monkey.
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Post by bugula on Nov 19, 2015 15:13:22 GMT -6
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Post by kylepa on Nov 19, 2015 15:14:00 GMT -6
Freenote cloth also has some denim with completely American parts- fabric, thread, rivets, patch and construction.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 15:14:41 GMT -6
This is how a collection happens. You can't decide so you back a pair of Gustins thinking they will be the one, you get impatient and the IH are released so you buy those also. Yea, I've gone from one pair of jeans three hours ago to about four pairs in shopping carts spread across the interwebs. You have unleashed a monster. Goddammit.
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Post by kylepa on Nov 19, 2015 15:15:41 GMT -6
I really want the grease point olive trouser. They look rad and he's a Seattle local.
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Post by exophobe on Nov 19, 2015 15:52:20 GMT -6
That's great advice bentin, thanks. I know there are some threads here on ordering through Rakuten that I could look over, but it does seem a little intimidating. I'll go back to the Gustin Okayama standard...would that fit the bill for you denim-wise (ie lower tension, other interesting Japanese qualities) or does the (at least perceived) lower quality construction make it not worth it? I guess these are philosophical questions, but ones I can't help asking. I wanted to pipe in on this, because there is a little bit of a misunderstanding here. When Gustin QC doesn't bite them, they make fantastic jeans (as long as the fit works for you. You get a flat-felled inseam which a lot of the Japanese brands don't do, loads of chain-stitching, and overall great construction. When the QC bites them, though, it can be bad with popped seams, rivets, and sizing issues. These are things that can happen to all brands, but many make a large run with the plan of throwing out up to 25% that don't meet spec, which creates a number of issues in the Gustin model. All in all, though, any jeans can experience the same issues, and sometimes these issues (such as loose seams where the fabric slipped and the manufacturer turned them right side out and shipped them anyway) will even bite you on expensive pairs. It just comes down to this: the unfortunate truth of the Gustin model thus far has been that the customer takes on the intermediate quality control that would usually be taken on by the retailer, as each pair doesn't get individually inspected before shipment (if this is not true, my apologies, but I've been paying too much attention for a couple years now). If that's not a risk you're willing to take, you're better off going to a retailer and paying their markup because they're offering a service that you place great value on. There's a lot of discussion on the Oka Standards somewhere in this forum, you may want to do a search and take a look at the commentary. Except that from ickes because he hates his okayamas (it still feels like the "sick fades" comments from Gustin are slightly directed at you, ickes).
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Post by bentin on Nov 19, 2015 15:54:58 GMT -6
Funny, my first pair of selvedge jeans are flat felled, and of course my two Gustins are too. But I actually find myself preferring lock stitched inner seams now. More comfortable, easier to have tapered and they hold up better to wear.
They do however look a little sloppy when cuffed. But I'm leaning towards getting everything but my Oki hemmed anyway.
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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 19, 2015 15:59:23 GMT -6
Also US made:
Leftfield NYC Bravestar Salvage Shockoe Atelier Norman Porter Norman Russell Noble Denim
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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 19, 2015 16:00:00 GMT -6
Imogene & Willie
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Post by exophobe on Nov 19, 2015 16:01:44 GMT -6
Completely unrelated to my original question, but I feel like this thread is answering all my denim queries: How do you keep the leather patch from turning blue after a soak? Wax? Just live with it? If it's not going to hit warm/hot water, I'd wax it which should have the least impact on color. If you don't care so much about the color of the leather, but want it to be resistant to color transfer during a soak/wash of the denim, water-proof it with whatever you typically waterproof boots with. However, I find that most of the indigo transfer on patches comes from my belt rather than washing, which waterproofing is going to do nothing to help, and the belt will likely still transfer indigo right onto the leather.
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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 19, 2015 16:05:07 GMT -6
or take a look at Ande Whall's stuff. I wasn't sold on his jeans at first but then bugula posted pics of his new special roll SR13's which look fantastic. been eyeing those on his site for the past few days now. $265 smackers though well, take shipping out of that picture and it becomes more like $215. still...ouch. but expedited international shipping is factored into his price. Yeah, i assumed he figured postage into his cost. Makes sense for Ande to streamline his prices like this. I remember when you first started the Ande Whall thread and i wasn't too keen on the wings arcuate, but now i totally dig 'em. I've put his jeans on my to buy list
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Post by david2403 on Nov 19, 2015 18:01:52 GMT -6
This is how a collection happens. You can't decide so you back a pair of Gustins thinking they will be the one, you get impatient and the IH are released so you buy those also. Yea, I've gone from one pair of jeans three hours ago to about four pairs in shopping carts spread across the interwebs. You have unleashed a monster. Goddammit. You may drive yourself crazy with all the great options already mentioned by this knowledgeable crew. I would simply get the pair that fit me best.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 19, 2015 18:19:29 GMT -6
Denim collections. Well I only have 3 pairs now with one on order but I'm feeling the bug. I can tell because ever since last night when I saw the PBJ's in purple weft I'm starting to tell myself that $300 isn't that bad for a pair of jeans right? Not when you are amongst you guys, it seems perfectly reasonable, so OP, beware!
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Post by devastitis on Nov 19, 2015 18:22:56 GMT -6
Denim collections. Well I only have 3 pairs now with one on order but I'm feeling the bug. I can tell because ever since last night when I saw the PBJ's in purple weft I'm starting to tell myself that $300 isn't that bad for a pair of jeans right? Not when you are amongst you guys, it seems perfectly reasonable, so OP, beware! Only $300 and they're not already in your closet? =x
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 9:55:27 GMT -6
Wow, this is tremendous. Thanks to everyone for chiming in. I've created a thread that has turned "hot"; I'm so proud. As it stands now, I think I've narrowed it down a bit. I think I'm going to do Japanese denim, made in 'merica. The Japanese brands and/or loomstate stuff is tempting, but I see that as "next level" stuff that I will probably tackle on my *next* pair. I think there are local retailers that sell RailCar, Rogue, and Left Field, all of which have at least some options in Japanese denim. Does anyone know if any of those options are made in house? The Gustin Oki are still in the running too. I just have to figure out if I will be able to go try the other brands on before the Gustin funding ends. Even if I miss out on the Gustin Oki, it seems like they come around fairly often, right?
That's where I'm at now. Comments? Have I overlooked anything?
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Post by exophobe on Nov 20, 2015 10:02:06 GMT -6
Wow, this is tremendous. Thanks to everyone for chiming in. I've created a thread that has turned "hot"; I'm so proud. As it stands now, I think I've narrowed it down a bit. I think I'm going to do Japanese denim, made in 'merica. The Japanese brands and/or loomstate stuff is tempting, but I see that as "next level" stuff that I will probably tackle on my *next* pair. I think there are local retailers that sell RailCar, Rogue, and Left Field, all of which have at least some options in Japanese denim. Does anyone know if any of those options are made in house? The Gustin Oki are still in the running too. I just have to figure out if I will be able to go try the other brands on before the Gustin funding ends. Even if I miss out on the Gustin Oki, it seems like they come around fairly often, right? That's where I'm at now. Comments? Have I overlooked anything? I know RailCar and Left Field are in-house production, and I believe Rogue Territory is. If you have option to try all those on, and price isn't much of an issue, I don't think you'll have any trouble unless the fits just don't work. Where Gustin runs lots of fabrics, these guys typically don't, so anything they choose to run with is usually pretty well vetted, Left Field probably being the most fabric-adventurous of those brands. Gustin tends to run the Okayama Standard about once a month these days, I'd say.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:07:32 GMT -6
Wow, this is tremendous. Thanks to everyone for chiming in. I've created a thread that has turned "hot"; I'm so proud. As it stands now, I think I've narrowed it down a bit. I think I'm going to do Japanese denim, made in 'merica. The Japanese brands and/or loomstate stuff is tempting, but I see that as "next level" stuff that I will probably tackle on my *next* pair. I think there are local retailers that sell RailCar, Rogue, and Left Field, all of which have at least some options in Japanese denim. Does anyone know if any of those options are made in house? The Gustin Oki are still in the running too. I just have to figure out if I will be able to go try the other brands on before the Gustin funding ends. Even if I miss out on the Gustin Oki, it seems like they come around fairly often, right? That's where I'm at now. Comments? Have I overlooked anything? I know RailCar and Left Field are in-house production, and I believe Rogue Territory is. If you have option to try all those on, and price isn't much of an issue, I don't think you'll have any trouble unless the fits just don't work. Where Gustin runs lots of fabrics, these guys typically don't, so anything they choose to run with is usually pretty well vetted, Left Field probably being the most fabric-adventurous of those brands. Gustin tends to run the Okayama Standard about once a month these days, I'd say. Thanks for the info exophobe. Like many of you, I'm trying to balance saving $100 with the Gustins vs. trying on the other stuff and knowing that fit will be good and there is less chance for QC issues. The struggle continues...
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:25:23 GMT -6
So now that I've settled on Japanese denim, what does it mean when denim is from Okayama prefecture? Does that mean there is a single denim mill in that part of Japan, or do all the mills in that area produce denim with similar characteristics? Is there a strong regional difference in Japanese mills/denim, like BBQ here in the US?
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Post by DigDug on Nov 20, 2015 10:34:07 GMT -6
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Post by DigDug on Nov 20, 2015 10:36:17 GMT -6
Okayama prefecture Is to Japanese cotton/denim As Detroit is to the American auto industry.
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Post by bentin on Nov 20, 2015 10:45:16 GMT -6
So now that I've settled on Japanese denim, what does it mean when denim is from Okayama prefecture? Does that mean there is a single denim mill in that part of Japan, or do all the mills in that area produce denim with similar characteristics? Is there a strong regional difference in Japanese mills/denim, like BBQ here in the US? Most, if not all of the Japanese mills are there. Sort of like our one US mill is in NC. There is a lot of variety with the Japanese mills. RgT tends to use Nihon Menpu (supplies Sugar Cane, Mr Freedom and others), LF uses Collect Mills (Momotaro and Japan Blue) and Railcar uses Kuroki Mills (supplies a lot of US companies like 3 Sixteen and Tellason.)
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:53:08 GMT -6
So now that I've settled on Japanese denim, what does it mean when denim is from Okayama prefecture? Does that mean there is a single denim mill in that part of Japan, or do all the mills in that area produce denim with similar characteristics? Is there a strong regional difference in Japanese mills/denim, like BBQ here in the US? Most, if not all of the Japanese mills are there. Sort of like our one US mill is in NC. There is a lot of variety with the Japanese mills. RgT tends to use Nihon Menpu (supplies Sugar Cane, Mr Freedom and others), LF uses Collect Mills (Momotaro and Japan Blue) and Railcar uses Kuroki Mills (supplies a lot of US companies like 3 Sixteen and Tellason.) So does Nihon Menpu (to choose a mill at random) specialize in a particular style of denim, and collect mills another, etc. Or is is more like craft brewing in the US, where everyone makes an IPA or a porter, or whatever, but has their own approach?
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