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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2014 7:38:33 GMT -6
I see Gustin holding onto stock Denim (Oks,HA,etc) I don't think that's the problem with having stock. It's the finished sewn jeans that Gustin doesn't want to hold onto. the storage, inventory, logistic's in them owning hundreds/thousands of sewn up jeans (haven't they offered over 100 denims) is what Gustin is trying to avoid. But funding 1 run a month for stock seems like a feasible feat. Hell, I could store and sell 200 pairs of jeans from my tiny 1room Japanese apartment |
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Post by gaseousclay on Oct 21, 2014 7:39:41 GMT -6
I'm about 95% certain that Combatant Gentleman is all made in China. I think you're thinking of Unbranded. CG's product description says, "After sourcing world-class raw selvedge denim from one of the finest mills in Japan, we cut, sew, and finish our denim in Los Angeles, California." I have no reason to believe otherwise. they also own their own sheep farm in Italy, which is how they're able to keep the cost of their suits down. |
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Post by DigDug on Oct 21, 2014 7:53:54 GMT -6
I see Gustin holding onto stock Denim (Oks,HA,etc) I don't think that's the problem with having stock. It's the finished sewn jeans that Gustin doesn't want to hold onto. the storage, inventory, logistic's in them owning hundreds/thousands of sewn up jeans (haven't they offered over 100 denims) is what Gustin is trying to avoid. But funding 1 run a month for stock seems like a feasible feat. Hell, I could store and sell 200 pairs of jeans from my tiny 1room Japanese apartment I would think so also. Even just the HA. But I think there trying to make more of a brand them just be denim. So to have even have 1 stock pair of jeans available just doesn't fit in there plan. Don't they already out source the stock page? I can see a day when there are 20 or 30 different items being offered in the store. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2014 9:20:41 GMT -6
I don't see them moving away from crowdsourcing. Nearly 100% of campaigns get funded. With the rate of new fabrics and products, it appears that they feel confident in their success. Some don't like it, but crowdsourcing is likely here to stay for a while...and others like Taylor stitch are starting to branch into that model as well.
They would absolutely increase prices on pairs held in stock just like the stock page. I can see them doing it for the HA, since even the increased price would be less than $100 and they seem to have a never ending supply of that denim.
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Post by Griffin on Oct 21, 2014 9:35:32 GMT -6
I also have a label upside down. On my trucker. I thought I was the only one. I wonder how proffessional the seemstresses are if they actually sew things upside down. I know I can screw up at work even at things Im good at, but this seems to me like such an important and central part of the work....like....if one of the staff people sew things on upside down from time to time...1. is that person actually fit to work with sewing things on permanently? 2. What does this say about quality of hiring. If it happened once then fine, but there is alot of people having issues, even if its just a button off centre or the red buttonhole being wierdly made, or fuzz sticking out from the very point of the collar. I love Gustin, but I kinda feel the sew-shop is populated by teenager traniees that just do it after school to get money for beer?
I take it aslong as its not too aparent bc for me there is also limited supply of nice clothes in the normal price-range. But for a shirt, to me thats $141 in total with VAT and fees. For $190 I can get a really really nice shirt thats perfectly sewn with everything spot on. So the model is dependent on being actually in the exact right pricerange, a little slip and its not affordable anymore. And since its a 90% chance of getting something not quite right the gap is even smaller. Offcourse the big brand-shops also have 50% off on a regular basis so if one gets last seasons colors/style we get Lacoste, Boss and stuff like that for $190. So to me the only reason I back the shirts are the nice materials and I just hope its wearable from the assembery. I think I would rather pay a little more and know its gonna be perfect, then hope for a bargain and get disapointed. I feel they are soooo close tho. Many places on the jeans are awesome, the trucker is really nicely made apart from the one threadloop in the air and the upside down label, and the shirts could use a little attention but the blue oxford material is even better then the equivalent of the big huge brands. I have one of the crazy expensive ones in blue oxford and its better sewn, but doesn't have better material. So I say change shop, up the prices a few dollars if you have to, and we really have something here!
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Post by matt on Oct 21, 2014 9:46:14 GMT -6
I know we make a broad assumption that the sew shops in San Fran are of higher quality talent than those in other locations (for example: Phoenix and Roman's new team of sewers), but is it really better trained talent just because an area is better known for that production? The video featuring the sew shop exclusive to Gustin and Tellason looks like it has trained individuals working in it (based on the video), and it does appear to have modest supervision as well - but it doesn't explain the carelessness that's been coming through of late. How much of an added cost would it be to hire even 3-4 people who do random QC check throughout produced runs?
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 21, 2014 9:52:51 GMT -6
I know we make a broad assumption that the sew shops in San Fran are of higher quality talent than those in other locations (for example: Phoenix and Roman's new team of sewers), but is it really better trained talent just because an area is better known for that production? The video featuring the sew shop exclusive to Gustin and Tellason looks like it has trained individuals working in it (based on the video), and it does appear to have modest supervision as well - but it doesn't explain the carelessness that's been coming through of late. How much of an added cost would it be to hire even 3-4 people who do random QC check throughout produced runs? Mishaps happen regardless of who you buy from, some brands can handle a bad batch by just re doing the whole thing but that would be the likes of say a Levi's. Mister Freedom had a bad batch of shirts that missed inspection & were sold as so to the public. I mean my beloved Mister Freedom even had a blunder & I doubt he could afford to have it fixed not only due to the over all cost of it but also maybe the fabric being limited. SO at one point we have to be understanding especially with a brand like Gustin who is quite small & has good prices. The same can be said about Lawless |
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Post by matt on Oct 21, 2014 10:04:27 GMT -6
Has everyone seen this write-up on Gustin's production? It's not quite comparable to the Lawless smaller shop - but I can see where a potential error could occur. I think it only gets magnified with the recent series of errors in production and very limited response/reaction from our friends at G. The benefit of say a smaller, owned sew shop (i.e. Lawless) is that it's under the direct control/oversight of Roman & company - he can convey his message and provide a level of QC that's missing from an outsourced shop. It's clear that Gustin isn't worried about the arbitrary complaints - case in point per Josh Gustin himself (via this Forbes article) "Now I charge $100 and we still get the same 50% gross margin as we did before" while also mentioning this in the article: "unlike most retailers who are standoffish with consumers, we are open with consumers and transparent with how and why we design" - that statement strikes me as slightly ironic. |
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Post by davelewis on Oct 21, 2014 10:14:13 GMT -6
I know we make a broad assumption that the sew shops in San Fran are of higher quality talent than those in other locations (for example: Phoenix and Roman's new team of sewers), but is it really better trained talent just because an area is better known for that production? The video featuring the sew shop exclusive to Gustin and Tellason looks like it has trained individuals working in it (based on the video), and it does appear to have modest supervision as well - but it doesn't explain the carelessness that's been coming through of late. How much of an added cost would it be to hire even 3-4 people who do random QC check throughout produced runs? Mishaps happen regardless of who you buy from, some brands can handle a bad batch by just re doing the whole thing but that would be the likes of say a Levi's. Mister Freedom had a bad batch of shirts that missed inspection & were sold as so to the public. I mean my beloved Mister Freedom even had a blunder & I doubt he could afford to have it fixed not only due to the over all cost of it but also maybe the fabric being limited. SO at one point we have to be understanding especially with a brand like Gustin who is quite small & has good prices. The same can be said about Lawless Dirty, I remember seeing you post that you had ordered a Gustin XXL in the Postal WS. That said, I was wondering how you fit with Mister Freedom's shirting? He puts out some magnificent peices, and is in a league of his own in many respects, but his shirt sizing is too small for me per his fit guides. |
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Post by Mattbert on Oct 21, 2014 10:22:14 GMT -6
It's clear that Gustin isn't worried about the arbitrary complaints - case in point per Josh Gustin himself (via this Forbes article) "Now I charge $100 and we still get the same 50% gross margin as we did before" while also mentioning this in the article: "unlike most retailers who are standoffish with consumers, we are open with consumers and transparent with how and why we design" - that statement strikes me as slightly ironic. I think we all would have reacted to that statement a lot differently a year ago, which is when the Forbes article was published. |
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Post by matt on Oct 21, 2014 10:23:49 GMT -6
It's clear that Gustin isn't worried about the arbitrary complaints - case in point per Josh Gustin himself (via this Forbes article) "Now I charge $100 and we still get the same 50% gross margin as we did before" while also mentioning this in the article: "unlike most retailers who are standoffish with consumers, we are open with consumers and transparent with how and why we design" - that statement strikes me as slightly ironic. I think we all would have reacted to that statement a lot differently a year ago, which is when the Forbes article was published. My thoughts exactly - I'm hoping they're not losing sight of what got them here. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 21, 2014 10:24:42 GMT -6
Mishaps happen regardless of who you buy from, some brands can handle a bad batch by just re doing the whole thing but that would be the likes of say a Levi's. Mister Freedom had a bad batch of shirts that missed inspection & were sold as so to the public. I mean my beloved Mister Freedom even had a blunder & I doubt he could afford to have it fixed not only due to the over all cost of it but also maybe the fabric being limited. SO at one point we have to be understanding especially with a brand like Gustin who is quite small & has good prices. The same can be said about Lawless Dirty, I remember seeing you post that you had ordered a Gustin XXL in the Postal WS. That said, I was wondering how you fit with Mister Freedom's shirting? He puts out some magnificent peices, and is in a league of his own in many respects, but his shirt sizing is too small for me per his fit guides. Mister Freedom does it right because if you look at how he puts sizing up its based on the fabric & believe it or not the dye used (check this shirt out) www.misterfreedom.com/nos-chambray-blue.html When I bought this shirt I was XL but could only buy it in Grey because of the differnt measurements for the different colors. SO a Green XL had a different chest measurement than the blue XL I now need a XXL because 23 inch chest is a bit tight. You also have to look at different shirts because some will be bigger than others. Try calling the store to talk about what you need When it comes to the stuff we like & fabrics we love..u have to size everything based on what its madeof & how its treated. Most brands will just blanket their sizing. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 21, 2014 10:28:33 GMT -6
I think we all would have reacted to that statement a lot differently a year ago, which is when the Forbes article was published. My thoughts exactly - I'm hoping they're not losing sight of what got them here. Personally I think Gustin is quickly out growing what they came to the market as & look to be heading towards some changes. They are quite successful with or without the type of customers who can talk about denim all day on a forum. I mean FOrbes & some of the other media outlets have introduced Gustin to the everyday consumer |
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Post by julian on Oct 21, 2014 10:30:49 GMT -6
also the label is sewn on upside down. This seems to have been overlooked, a little, probably because of 'Sizegate'... but what could demonstrate a lack of attention to basic detail more than sewing in the company's name badge upside down? (I think you should refer to them as the 'Black Metal' edition) |
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Post by Subsound on Oct 22, 2014 19:21:27 GMT -6
Received my fourth pair of Gustin jeans today, and they are the third that have come up very undersized. The third pair that will need to be returned from Australia. Super slub browns in 33 slim measure barely 32" (so 1.5" below spec) & also the label is sewn on upside down. I am a huge fan of the Gustin concept but really hope they can get control over these poor quality issues which are unacceptable. In future I may need to order two pairs - the extra pair being one size up - and then somehow sell the spare pair at a loss. Don't know what else to say, after having written to Cody to beg that they be measured before being sent.  If 3 out of 4 are to small. Wouldn't/shouldn't you size up to a 34? Maybe the 1 pair that fit you right was sewn up big. I could see you getting another 1" if you pulled/laid the waist band strait and on top of each other. Which would put them in spec. , are you suggesting I size up one because Gustin fail to sew their jeans correctly? If I size up from 33 to 34, I will possibly end up with a pair measuring 34.8" & then have no grounds to return them because they're on spec. How would that benefit me? Trust me, my jeans measure 32" when aligned (I was pulling it tightly as I only had one spare hand for the photo); they're 1.5" below spec. julian, glad you got your Downtown Browns measuring 33.8"! Now I really have no idea what size to order next time! |
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Post by DigDug on Oct 22, 2014 19:37:28 GMT -6
Try not even having your size available. For a year there was no 37". I've back 4 pairs at 36" and 8 pairs at 38". I decided I'd rather have them to big and wear a belt then to small.
Of course I've returned what wasn't done right.
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Post by brentkuz on Oct 22, 2014 19:38:00 GMT -6
Shirts will now have three options for all - slim, tall, classic. Gonna be interesting since the classic cut is short and slim already.
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Post by wisdom on Oct 22, 2014 21:10:50 GMT -6
If 3 out of 4 are to small. Wouldn't/shouldn't you size up to a 34? Maybe the 1 pair that fit you right was sewn up big. I could see you getting another 1" if you pulled/laid the waist band strait and on top of each other. Which would put them in spec. , are you suggesting I size up one because Gustin fail to sew their jeans correctly? If I size up from 33 to 34, I will possibly end up with a pair measuring 34.8" & then have no grounds to return them because they're on spec. How would that benefit me? Trust me, my jeans measure 32" when aligned (I was pulling it tightly as I only had one spare hand for the photo); they're 1.5" below spec. julian, glad you got your Downtown Browns measuring 33.8"! Now I really have no idea what size to order next time! .. I'd get the pair that fits you as tagged, not as derived from experience. You protect yourself this way because you can return if things fall out of spec. Returns cost Gustin money and some amount of risk to their reputation. As insensitive as this "feedback loop" is for them, it gives 'em an idea of where their problems are. |
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Post by Mattbert on Oct 22, 2014 21:37:05 GMT -6
Shirts will now have three options for all - slim, tall, classic. Gonna be interesting since the classic cut is short and slim already.  |
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Post by matt on Oct 22, 2014 21:54:36 GMT -6
Definitely interested to see the new size charts and when they will take effect. For example - anyone else back the Rocket Plain in August? It's project for November delivery and I can still adjust the size. So, will I have to readjust my size for this when the new size chart is released? Perhaps I'll ping this one to Cody tomorrow.
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Post by Mattbert on Oct 22, 2014 21:57:43 GMT -6
Definitely interested to see the new size charts and when they will take effect. For example - anyone else back the Rocket Plain in August? It's project for November delivery and I can still adjust the size. So, will I have to readjust my size for this when the new size chart is released? Perhaps I'll ping this one to Cody tomorrow. The new size charts are up: BEHOLD! |
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Post by matt on Oct 22, 2014 22:04:59 GMT -6
The new size charts are up: BEHOLD!I guess the true question will be - how accurate are they? |
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Post by jbreitenbucher on Oct 22, 2014 22:11:37 GMT -6
The new size charts are up: BEHOLD!I guess the true question will be - how accurate are they? Well, some of these have a difference of .1 in, which I am almost sure even the best sew shop in the world is going to have a hell of a time hitting. I mean a 10 in rise on a 33 slim and a 10.1 in rise on a 34 slim, how likely is that to happen on every pair? |
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Post by Mattbert on Oct 22, 2014 22:13:45 GMT -6
The new size charts are up: BEHOLD!I guess the true question will be - how accurate are they? Indeed. I'm wrestling with that already. And just as pressing in my mind is the follow-up question: does the Tall fit feature the less severe scoops as on the prototype blue oxford that some of us backed? |
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Post by Mattbert on Oct 22, 2014 22:17:26 GMT -6
I guess the true question will be - how accurate are they? Well, some of these have a difference of .1 in, which I am almost sure even the best sew shop in the world is going to have a hell of a time hitting. I mean a 10 in rise on a 33 slim and a 10.1 in rise on a 34 slim, how likely is that to happen on every pair? As far as I know, the denim fits are the same as they've been for a while now. It's just the shirts that have the updated fit guide for the Slim and Tall cuts. |
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