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Post by ickes on Mar 23, 2015 15:20:51 GMT -6
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Post by variable on Mar 23, 2015 16:10:50 GMT -6
Good find, great share.
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Post by Old26 on Mar 23, 2015 16:29:41 GMT -6
Here we go: How has the internet changed the way we discuss clothing? Every subculture has been balkanized to message boards and niche sites (Rawr Denim, for one) that cater to very specific interests. For many, the way they dress is determined more by where they hang out online instead of where they hang out in real life. Do you think regional styles and cultures will be completely supplanted by their online counterparts? For one thing, it’s made *visible* the ways in which various sorts of men think about clothing, and made that widely, democratically available to other men. That’s really quite remarkable, new, and something whose implications aren’t entirely clear yet. Men used to do this one-on-one, or in very small groups. But it required a sort of mutual permission, and more trust in other men than many had.
A cultural inability in this area was basically what made men’s magazines of the non-wank variety (LOL!!-old26) commercially viable. You couldn’t ask, but Esquire would tell you, on a monthly basis. But it’s easier to genuinely grasp a “look” if you can observe it being worn successfully on the street, which continues to give major urban centers an edge.
Today it’s not uncommon to see men who’ve gone to considerable care and expense to get some very specific look exactly wrong, and I suspect that that’s down to the internet. There are some things that bulletin boards can’t really convey. You have to see it being worn well.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 23, 2015 17:58:18 GMT -6
Great article. Jcrew's workwear does suck. I will say that for sure.
I think in a way we dress for our environment but we gravitate to a website that caters to that. If we dressed in suits everyday I doubt we would be on this site as much.
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Post by Mattbert on Mar 23, 2015 21:42:20 GMT -6
Nice one, ickes! I actually just started reading Mr. Gibson's latest novel yesterday. I loved the book they discuss most in the interview, "Pattern Recognition", in large part because I identified so strongly with the protagonist. I'm not quite as extreme as she is, but I absolutely loathe any branding on clothes unless it's quite subtle. And I start to feel acute distress to the point of anger if for some reason I have to spend too long in a mall department store or, heaven forbid, get dragged into the likes of an A&F or some other "brand forward" hellhole at the outlets. Wifebert still just thinks I hate shopping and that I play up the anxiety to get out of doing it. I'm always like, "No, you don't understand. These places literally make my skin crawl." I have a real physical aversion to being surrounded by crap like that. I do find it kind of amusing that Cayce Pollard would probably want to rip the tags and labels right out of every single thing in the Rickson/Gibson line, though. And I remember, at the time I was reading "Pattern Recognition", thinking how badass it would be if this Buzz Rickson's company actually existed. It didn't occur to me until about a decade later that it did! I was looking at N-1 jackets and stumbled upon the Rickson's version, and somewhere rattling around in the ol' braianpan was a little voice going, "Hey, wait a minute. I know that name from somewhere. Why do I know that name?"
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 21:51:59 GMT -6
I found these couple points very interesting as I dress to not stand out. I feel self conscious in trendy clothes and bright colors etc.
"My rule is that if Dick Cheney couldn’t wear it without creating a stir, I shouldn’t either. I like clothing that isn’t easily noticed. I know a man in London who wears Savile Row suits the way some people wear hoodies, and he says the greatest thing about them is that “nobody knows what you've got"
This Is one reason I bought IH jeans. Other than looking at the patch (easily removed) hardly anyone would know what they are and I get the satisfaction of owning the best jeans available.
Also this-gray man theory in fashion.
There’s an idea called “gray man”, in the security business, that I find interesting. They teach people to dress unobtrusively. Chinos instead of combat pants, and if you really need the extra pockets, a better design conceals them. They assume, actually, that the bad guys will shoot all the guys wearing combat pants first, just to be sure. I don’t have that as a concern, but there’s something appealingly “low-drag” about gray man theory: reduced friction with one’s environment. Arc’teryx Veilance had a lot of that in its original DNA, and I also find it, though probably for different reasons, in Outlier. Nothing worse than clothing that gets in its wearer’s way.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 23, 2015 21:54:57 GMT -6
I donno man someone's tastes in clothing never really angered me much. I might not like it not would I wear it but it doesn't anger me. Super dandy dressers, express men's printed T's, the "going out" shirt. Jersey shore. Doesn't do if for me but if it's your thing go for it.
I do get angry I guess in one situation and that is wakes and funerals. But it's more out of the respect for the dead. Wife beaters and sneaks just aren't appropriate.
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Post by exophobe on Mar 23, 2015 22:02:22 GMT -6
Talking in a world of removed leather patches, PBJ and iron heart are the most recognizable, behind perhaps only the levis red tab and the momotaro battle ready with the white stripes though, aren't they?
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Post by Mattbert on Mar 23, 2015 22:08:57 GMT -6
I donno man someone's tastes in clothing never really angered me much. I might not like it not would I wear it but it doesn't anger me. Super dandy dressers, express men's printed T's, the "going out" shirt. Jersey shore. Doesn't do if for me but if it's your thing go for it. I do get angry I guess in one situation and that is wakes and funerals. But it's more out of the respect for the dead. Wife beaters and sneaks just aren't appropriate. I should say I am not angry at my fellow shoppers or their purchasing decisions. That is not my problem at all. I just start to feel claustrophobic and slightly ill, and I resent being in that space. So I am quietly seething at the situation, the environment. I don't want to be there, I can't stand being there, and I have. to. get. out.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 23, 2015 22:12:34 GMT -6
Talking in a world of removed leather patches, PBJ and iron heart are the most recognizable, behind perhaps only the levis red tab and the momotaro battle ready with the white stripes though, aren't they? Oni back pockets are pretty recognizable. Honestly though I doubt 99% of the people out there will think you're wearing jeans and won't be able to tell the difference. Maybe 10% of the population knows what selvedge means and maybe 5% knows what it means when it comes to jeans. Dress for yourself.
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Post by ickes on Mar 23, 2015 22:13:27 GMT -6
Talking in a world of removed leather patches, PBJ and iron heart are the most recognizable, behind perhaps only the levis red tab and the momotaro battle ready with the white stripes though, aren't they? I don't think I agree with that. Maybe among the very small minority of the population that makes up the denim head freaks like us, but not among the general population, no way. The vast majority of the general public has no clue what Iron Heart is and that's exactly how I like it.
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Post by Winterland on Mar 23, 2015 22:15:51 GMT -6
Thanks for posting. Lot's of info.
I liked these lines.
"I’ve always struggled with the fact that one of the most prized vintage items in Japan are A-2 jackets, the very jackets of the men who bombed them."
"We live in an age of seriously crap mass clothing. They’ve made a science of it."
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 22:25:21 GMT -6
Talking in a world of removed leather patches, PBJ and iron heart are the most recognizable, behind perhaps only the levis red tab and the momotaro battle ready with the white stripes though, aren't they? Recognizable in certain crowds. Not so much where I live. Jeans are so common around me that no one will think of them as anything but "jeans". Now, if they were bright red or pure white, that would be different. Honestly if people started saying "nice ironhearts" to me I will remove the decorative stitching from the pockets.
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Post by julian on Mar 23, 2015 22:52:21 GMT -6
Talking in a world of removed leather patches, PBJ and iron heart are the most recognizable, behind perhaps only the levis red tab and the momotaro battle ready with the white stripes though, aren't they? I'd put Nudie as the most obviously and easily identifiable after Levis. Then maybe Edwin, although most non-denim aficionados probably just think they are Levis. APC is probably the most unidentifiable 'serious' jeans brand out there. Ironically, Unbranded's claims of 'No branding' are rendered completely incorrect by having the blank leather patch - which becomes something of a give away. Regardless of the level of branding, to anyone who's likely to actually care, I think most clothing is fairly identifiable. The flipside of that is that many people who choose to sport overt branding don't seem to realise that the vast majority of the people that see their clothing have absolutely no idea what's behind the choice of brand... even if they register it in the first place.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2015 23:16:55 GMT -6
I do get angry I guess in one situation and that is wakes and funerals. But it's more out of the respect for the dead. Wife beaters and sneaks just aren't appropriate. Do people actually do that? Wife beaters aren't appropriate anywhere, but at formal occasions especially..That's just so insanely trashy.
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Post by Old26 on Mar 24, 2015 8:39:19 GMT -6
When I walk up to a guy and mention something he's wearing, the initial look is shock, followed by something like I've found my long-lost brother. It's kinda cool. A secret club, if you will. I've always liked clothing, guess I'm glad it didn't turn into a guest-shot on GLEE and really IS normal
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Post by stinky on Mar 24, 2015 9:18:54 GMT -6
I donno man someone's tastes in clothing never really angered me much. I might not like it not would I wear it but it doesn't anger me. Super dandy dressers, express men's printed T's, the "going out" shirt. Jersey shore. Doesn't do if for me but if it's your thing go for it. I do get angry I guess in one situation and that is wakes and funerals. But it's more out of the respect for the dead. Wife beaters and sneaks just aren't appropriate. I should say I am not angry at my fellow shoppers or their purchasing decisions. That is not my problem at all. I just start to feel claustrophobic and slightly ill, and I resent being in that space. So I am quietly seething at the situation, the environment. I don't want to be there, I can't stand being there, and I have. to. get. out. I feel exactly the same way about those stores as well. Frankly, in my case, I think it has a lot to do with the off-gassing of the chemicals used in the manufacturing process and the synthetics in the clothing. I get dizzy, nauseous, and overwhelmed; and like you, I can't get out fast enough.
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Post by julian on Mar 24, 2015 9:25:10 GMT -6
Frankly, in my case, I think it has a lot to do with the off-gassing of the chemicals used in the manufacturing process and the synthetics in the clothing. I get dizzy, nauseous, and overwhelmed; and like you, I can't get out fast enough. And that's before you throw in the fragrances they deliberately pump into the air-con systems...
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Post by exophobe on Mar 24, 2015 11:53:39 GMT -6
I'm just talking from a "distinctive marking" standpoint. I don't find either of them garish or unappealing -- rather like them both, myself. The two brands, however, have an inherent exclusivity through their limited distribution, so you're not going to be getting recognized at concerts, but they're going to be recognizable. Nothing like JNCO jeans, though, so everything will probably be okay.
Certainly not my intent to give anyone an anxiety attack over the embroidery on their back pocket.
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Post by drstrange on Mar 24, 2015 12:19:41 GMT -6
..... And I start to feel acute distress to the point of anger if for some reason I have to spend too long in a mall department store or, heaven forbid, get dragged into the likes of an A&F or some other "brand forward" hellhole at the outlets. Wifebert still just thinks I hate shopping and that I play up the anxiety to get out of doing it. I'm always like, "No, you don't understand. These places literally make my skin crawl." I have a real physical aversion to being surrounded by crap like that. I used to feel exactly like that .... however there was a reason: iwhile still with my ex-wife, virtually every Saturday's afternoon routine was a "Tour-des-Boutiques", visiting all the posh brand outlets in town (and as it was a wealthy town, there were/are a few of them there) ... after separation I didn't step into a clothing shop for almost 10 years
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Post by drstrange on Mar 24, 2015 12:23:48 GMT -6
... If we dressed in suits everyday I doubt we would be on this site as much. I do wear suits around 100 days a year .... Am I supposed to leave now?
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 24, 2015 12:28:02 GMT -6
I do get angry I guess in one situation and that is wakes and funerals. But it's more out of the respect for the dead. Wife beaters and sneaks just aren't appropriate. Do people actually do that? Wife beaters aren't appropriate anywhere, but at formal occasions especially..That's just so insanely trashy. True story. My uncle's (by marriage) brother died, I went to his wake. The decedent's son showed up in a white basic hanes T, is jeans and sneakers. I'm in a full suit of course and I was in shock. I'm not even close to that family just basically went for moral support for my aunt. The decedent's son also skipped driving 1h to the cemetary and decided to break into his deceased fathers house and steal as much that he could before they returned. Shitheads.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 24, 2015 12:29:36 GMT -6
... If we dressed in suits everyday I doubt we would be on this site as much. I do wear suits around 100 days a year .... Am I supposed to leave now? 1/3 of the year ain't bad. No you don't have to leave but you are the minority.
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Post by Old26 on Mar 24, 2015 12:39:11 GMT -6
... If we dressed in suits everyday I doubt we would be on this site as much. I do wear suits around 100 days a year .... Am I supposed to leave now? No - you can stay on the other 265...
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Post by drstrange on Mar 24, 2015 12:39:37 GMT -6
I do wear suits around 100 days a year .... Am I supposed to leave now? 1/3 of the year ain't bad. No you don't have to leave but you are the minority. oh well, somehow I always end up being part of some minority .....
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