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Post by nate001 on Feb 14, 2018 7:52:49 GMT -6
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Post by nate001 on Feb 13, 2018 13:52:26 GMT -6
I ordered my wine oxford on Feb. 2. Just got my shipping notice. Custom shirt in under 2 weeks!
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Post by nate001 on Feb 9, 2018 9:20:54 GMT -6
Hello all. This thread is probably biased but is shadow selvedge still the gold standard for I X I (I x Black)? After mistakenly selling my G pair I’m looking for a replacement I have not gone down this route since I generally prefer a higher rise and have not seen much in the i x I Anyway considering the ct if they are not a lifters cut Or something from freenote or subject to low rise try on a pair of railcar spikes Not sure from your question if you're looking for indigoxblack or indigoxindigo. The shadow selvedge is indigoxblack. I have no personal experience with shadow selvedge from 3sixteen, but everyone who has it seems to love it. Their type 3 shadow jacket seems to be very popular amongst the instagrammers. Here's another option from LF NYC: www.blkblu.com/collections/left-field-nyc/products/lf-x-blackblue-greaser-jeansIt's a collab with my local denim shop. I have their greaser cut in another denim type and it's definitely got a higher rise. I've seen good fades on these too. Looks like Freenote has indigoxblack options too. I'm sure there many, many more options from Japanese brands.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 7, 2018 14:41:45 GMT -6
Probably one of the chamois and maybe the Higlands chambray, both two pocket, unfused spread collars. I have the highlands chambray and love it. Great texture. Beware the magical disappearing chamois!
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Post by nate001 on Feb 7, 2018 14:11:10 GMT -6
Quick turn around times currently, as I placed an order 12 days ago, and it shipped out today. Awesome, just about to order a few, nice to know they're on it. Whaddya gonna order?
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Post by nate001 on Feb 7, 2018 14:10:23 GMT -6
Quick turn around times currently, as I placed an order 12 days ago, and it shipped out today. Wine oxford? I just put in an order for one a couple days ago.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 5, 2018 9:13:56 GMT -6
Bentin. No they don't, the 633 is an SE exclusive cut Thanks, should have clarified. Just meant the 14OD, hadn't noticed it was out at all. Guess the Mildblends were the 777 cut, and the 633 works better for me, so yeah, SelfEdge does me more good. My spidey sense is tingling. Do we have a bentin IH purchase in our future? Edit: FWIW, they still have the 21oz black in the 777 cut in what I assume is your size (36?) on mega-super sale in the outlet ($225!). Don't know your need/opinion for black heavy denim tho.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 4, 2018 13:29:07 GMT -6
Ok I've been interested in getting a pair of real raw jeans for a year and finally bought the bullet when I heard the White Oak factory closed. I went with the 15.25 oz natural indigo dyed for my first. www.taylorstitch.com/collections/mens-denim/products/the-democratic-jean-in-110-year-denimQuestion on sizing, reading the chart I would be a size 36 but in say Levi's 501 I'm a 34. Anyone have a good recommendation? Does everyone submerge they're jeans in the tub to remove the starch? Or just wear them for six months first before washing? Welcome to the forum. Sizing jeans is a notoriously goofy thing with no standardization. Many denim companies use what is called "vanity sizing" which means the jeans have an actual waist of 36", but they put a 34 tag on it. The world of raw denim does this too, but a somewhat less than, say, the Gap. Anyway, most raw denim will have a fit chart somewhere on the webpage. Taylor Stitch does too, just click on the "sizing" button below the "add to cart" button. Once you are on that page, get a pair of pants you already own that fits you well and compare the measurements of those pants to the fit chart. Many companies will also show you how to measure. It might seem obvious, but different companies can do their measurements in slightly different ways and it can lead to a fairly major difference in fit. Taylor Stitch probably has a "how to measure" section on their site somewhere too, but I can't find it right offhand. You will need a tape measure to do this. Cone White Oak denim is a great first choice, especially now that the plant is closing. It's sort of a classic looking denim. If and when you get more into the raw denim scene, you might start branching out into all kinds of other denim, often milled in Japan. There's a whole vocabulary that gets thrown around here. I didn't know what the hell most folks were talking about when I first joined the forum, and I still don't, but I've learn a lot about denim and clothing generally from Heddels.com. Soaking jeans right away is completely up to you. If you want softer jeans right away, go for it. There's no wrong answer. Many hard core denim guys like to wait to soak/wash because it results in greater contrast fades (ie, difference between the blue indigo and the white faded denim) if you wait. That's my 2 cents. Don't be afraid to ask questions. You'll get opinions. It's a pretty fun little hobby. Kinda expensive, but less than owning a boat or a horse or something.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 15:44:53 GMT -6
This is the same pattern of plaid as my IH-170!
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Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 11:16:19 GMT -6
Probably my best fitting chinos (I wear a 35 slim). I have an indigo selvedge canvas from Cone (RIP!) and an army green duck canvas. They have reasonable thigh room, unlike those buggers from RgT! Haha, yeah, grabbed a 35 Slim. I was just cursing my Wings & Horns chinos for their stupid button fly and just turned around and ordered another pair of button fly chinos. D'oh! It's too bad there aren't any city coats in the stock store. THAT's what you should get next. No, wait...there's some shirts with pretty epic alignment issues. Go for those.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 11:03:06 GMT -6
Finally trying some G Chinos. They had a few in the stock store, figured it was time to try them. Between deciding that I like my bxb and ordering these, I guess it's almost time to order a CPO! Probably my best fitting chinos (I wear a 35 slim). I have an indigo selvedge canvas from Cone (RIP!) and an army green duck canvas. They have reasonable thigh room, unlike those buggers from RgT!
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Belts
Feb 1, 2018 10:09:36 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 10:09:36 GMT -6
I've done an about face. Now I think I'm going to buy this: leatherworksminnesota.com/store/copy-of-copy-of-classic-beltI *think* this is English bridle leather and I like the color, probably more than what the natural would eventually patina into. They have a showroom in downtown St. Paul, so I think I'll head down to check out the goods in person some time next week.
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Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 8:19:32 GMT -6
My two takeaways from the Heddels article: 1) Selvedge denim was a tiny percentage of what white oak produced. I guess I didn't really think much about the non-selvedge production, but the plants' success (or failure) ultimately depended on that despite what I assume were pretty big gains in demand for selvedge denim. 2) Is there an animal that is a cross between a snake and a frog? Because that is what Wilbur Ross is. A salamander maybe?
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Post by nate001 on Feb 1, 2018 6:58:11 GMT -6
Nice article on Heddels about the cone white oak mill closure. Maybe we should all pool some money and buy a couple of Draper looms. Whaddya say everyone?
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Belts
Jan 30, 2018 10:05:54 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 30, 2018 10:05:54 GMT -6
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. At this point I'm leaning toward One Star, for a couple of reasons. One, they are the least expensive (with the exception of the 3 belts for $99 from Corter, but I only need one belt) . Two, they basically allow customization of the belt with options for leather, width, center bar buckle vs. heel bar buckle and a bunch of buckles to choose from. My birthday is coming up next week (I'll be 40!) so I think I'll wait until after that to put in an order for a belt and the wine oxford from Ratio.
EDIT: What do folks think about center bar buckles vs. heel bar buckles. Is one more formal? If I get a center bar buckle will it look too cowboy? I'd probably mostly wear this belt with jeans, but once in awhile with chinos at work. I'm leaning toward 1.25" width, mostly because it seems a little more versatile. I think a 1.5" belt on chinos at work might seem a little much. It's also very possible I'm spending way too much time thinking about a freaking belt.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 29, 2018 13:46:54 GMT -6
you should download the Tapatalk app. You can post, track threads, and attach images directly to your post. It'll be cold enough mid week to wear it so i'll try to get a few pics uploaded then. Boy am I dumb. I had no idea an app existed. I'll get it.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 29, 2018 13:23:30 GMT -6
After trading emails back and forth Ratio had me second guessing if i had done something wrong. Did I fluff the shirt with heat instead of no-heat, or wash in warm water instead of cold. I knew that I hadn't, but I was starting to second guess the amount of shrinkage being from the fabric alone. But after receiving this one, double checking all of the temps and cycles, and still getting those kinds of measurements I know that it's the fabric and not me. The chest, shoulders, and sleeves have all shrunk to acceptable levels. They're slightly more than my spec'd measurements but I think that works out with this heavier shirt so i can layer it or wear it alone. It's still longer than I would prefer so i may send it back one more time and let them take an inch off the overall length and be done with it. Also... i asked for both an unfused and unlined collar. It looks much better with this style configuration. I'd love to see a pic if you ever get a chance. I'll try to post some pics of mine at some point. The major obstacle to me posting more pics is the inability to post pics directly from my phone. When I'm on the forum website on my phone, there isn't a "add image to post" button at the top of the text box. The button is there if I'm at a desktop or on my iPad though.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 29, 2018 13:11:40 GMT -6
I got my remade 9oz chamois shirt over the weekend. In talking with Ratio they decided to remake the shirt with oversized measurements to allot for the additional shrinkage this material seems to have. and boy does it shrink. I'll post the exact measurements when I get home but after two cold washes and hang dries this shirt has lost almost 3 inches in the length (33 to 30.25") and over an inch in the sleeves. Glad they were able to make things right. That is a crazy amount of shrink though. It would be hard to make a shirt to account for that amount of shrink. I bet once they sell this fabric out they don't restock. That has to be too much of a hassle. FWIW, I have shirts in a range of fabrics (chambray, madras, flannel) and haven't seen anything close to the amount of shrink you have seen. Edit: When my shirts arrive, they are definitely too big, but after a cold wash and a hang dry, they are right where they need to be. I've never done any pre/post wash measurements though.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 29, 2018 11:26:39 GMT -6
I've never been to a more unpleasant forum, aside from 4chan, lmao! Let's not go the SuFu route, lol! No need for "fashion gangs"... I predominately wear IH, but I totally respect all the other brnads discussed here as well! Well, except that one that we don't discuss anymore... **Speaking of which, anyone heard from the AZAG? This is basically the only forum I read or contribute to, so I don't have a whole lot to compare it to, but I think members, are, for the most part, pretty friendly and respectful. I mean, sure, there are occasional trolling comments, but it seems like those are either from known trolls, or well known members just joking around. I know the IHUK VAT discussion raises everyone's dander, but are there other specific and recurring examples that are unbecoming on the forum?
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Belts
Jan 28, 2018 21:11:17 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 28, 2018 21:11:17 GMT -6
Whaddya got for belts from one star? Also, will the nickel buckles wear to expose brass underneath? That’s what I have going on right now with my current belt buckle. I would prefer a matte nickel buckle but only if it didn’t wear to show brass underneath. I haven't had my Corter buckle wear/patina at all. Buckle looks the same as the day I got it. Yeah, my guess is the buckle is cheap nickel plated brass.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 28, 2018 20:57:06 GMT -6
Ive been eyeballing various RGT trousers during this sales period and keep not pulling the trigger since it seems that inevitably when I research the on the RGT site, they say the trousers run small and to size up. Well I can't do that since I'm at the top of the rgt size chart AND many of these sales are Final Sale. Beware RgT trousers, especially if you can’t return! The non selvedge options have tiny thighs (12.25 for a 36” true waist).
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Belts
Jan 28, 2018 20:52:54 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 28, 2018 20:52:54 GMT -6
Mink oil will wildly accelerate the aging. A lighter conditioner like Bick #4 will be much milder. Tanner has 10% off for new customers on their website, I'm looking for a wallet. But I keep coming back to One Star Leather, I have a few of his belts and really like them. But I may just cane and get a Vermilyea Pelle horse one. Whaddya got for belts from one star? Also, will the nickel buckles wear to expose brass underneath? That’s what I have going on right now with my current belt buckle. I would prefer a matte nickel buckle but only if it didn’t wear to show brass underneath.
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Belts
Jan 28, 2018 19:47:13 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 28, 2018 19:47:13 GMT -6
I think I probably need to upgrade my belt. The one I have is probably 10years old and from Banana Republic. I don’t really know anything about leather, but I don’t think it’s super high quality or anything. these lines running across the belt, is that some defect? Loose grain or something? On the inside it says genuine Italian leather, which, as I now understand, is basically crap, right? anyway, thinking of doing a veg tan, with a stainless buckle. Here’s a couple I’m debating: leatherworksminnesota.com/store/classic-belt-1-12-naturalwww.tannergoods.com/collections/belts/products/standard-belt-natural-stainlessI like the buckle from tanner better. The price is better from Leatherworks...plus it’s made in the same town I live. Opinions? Other directions? also, how quickly can I expect the veg tan to darken? From what I understand I can hasten the darkening with mink oil, right?
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Post by nate001 on Jan 28, 2018 19:37:16 GMT -6
I have the Copper in XL and wear a 42 TS. Pretty sure you'd want an XXL. Thanks Bentin, Hmm, I usually wear a 42 in TS except for the long hauls, which run very small. Seeing as Stag only has up to an XL and I have a 15% coupon, I might take a flyer on it since it's only $175. Benton, it looks like you and I generally run the same size based on previous threads I've read. 35 slim in Gustin, right? I’m a 44 in TS shirts and 35 slim for Gustin pants. I have a supply jacket from RgT (not copper canvas) in a XL. It’s definitely on the snug side if I’m wearing a thicker flannel underneath but not uncomfortably tight or anything. With a T-shirt underneath it’s a great fit. I think a XL might work for you if you don’t mind a trim fit. You won’t be able to shoot baskets with it on or anything, but that probably isn’t a major consideration. Also, mine is lined, and I don’t think the copper canvas is. That would probably give you more room too.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 26, 2018 14:00:17 GMT -6
Wow, those do look great. I like how they don’t really look that black. Sort of a black/indigo cross. This sort of seems too good to be true. Any idea why these didn’t sell initially and are now in the outlet? I’m good on jeans for the time being, but if anything could get me to buy another it would be this deal.
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