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Post by nate001 on Jan 26, 2018 11:13:50 GMT -6
That tonal fly is a deal breaker for me. Make Jeans Contrasty Again! We agree to disagree. I like it.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 26, 2018 9:30:46 GMT -6
winter sun early fades on my 18 oz heavy slub.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 22, 2018 8:16:55 GMT -6
davelewis, you have a linen shirt from Ratio, right? I just got my blue gingham this weekend. It looks great and I'm really happy with it, but I noticed on the care tag it says dry clean only. Does your linen shirt say that too? I didn't think linen required dry cleaning. If you have washed it, did it come out OK? I'm not generally a fan of dry cleaning so I'd like to avoid it if possible with this shirt. If I were to wash it, I'd just do a cold water wash and hang dry. Also picked up the olive mesa flannel. I won't share a photo of it for bentin to pick apart its alignment issues, but to my amateur eye, it looks good. Collar, sleeves, horizontal and vertical alignment are all hunky dory. The wine oxford has been restocked and I have a $50 credit to burn, so I'll probably order that soon.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 19, 2018 8:41:17 GMT -6
This isn't specifically about TS, but I just found out Ibex clothing went under. Several years ago when I first got interested in MiUSA clothing, I bought a fair amount of stuff from them, much of it I continue to wear and enjoy. They were kind of on the leading edge of using wool for active wear. When I first became aware of the brand almost all their stuff was made in USA out of New Zealand sourced Merino wool. Over the years, less and less of their stuff was made in USA and my interest in the brand flagged. Now I'm not saying their choice to outsource their manufacturing led to them going under, but they certainly lost at least one customer. Gosh, I wonder if there are any other companies like that?
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Post by nate001 on Jan 15, 2018 11:31:43 GMT -6
All right, I'm picking up this query in the appropriate thread. If I'm a true 36 waist and a 35 slim in G chinos and denim (with good fits in the thigh) am I gonna be OK in a tag size 33 in the copper canvas officer trousers? The 12.25" thigh is making me nervous.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 15, 2018 11:20:02 GMT -6
Does anyone have the flight trousers from Railcar? I'm still considering getting rid of my funny fitting CF canvas chinos. I struck out on LF NYC. Thinking about giving these guys a try. What didn't your like about LF? I can't warm to the external rear pockets of RC. Have you tried RgT Officer Trousers? Just be aware that they have different fits for selvedge vs non selvedge. Non selvedge are a good bit tighter, a lesson I learned the hard way. The LF had a twist in the left leg. Too bad, cause the fit was really good and I liked the fabric and all the other details. I sent the pair back and the "new" one had the same twist on the same leg. I'm ok with twist on denim, but not on canvas, and not on one leg. I went to a local stockist and most, but not all, of the LF canvas chinos there also had a leg twist, but just on one leg. Ironically, the pair I'm looking to replace from CF also had a leg twist, but I got him to make me a new pair without a twist. The CF chinos are a funny fit. The upper thigh is fine. The knee is fine. Its tight in the mid thigh. I don't think I've ever had any pants fit the way these do. I agree with the patch pockets on the railcars. That's the major thing keeping me from buying them. I'm nervous about RgT pants sizing. I bought their safari pants in ripstop navy on sale from them and the thighs were laughably tight. I tried exchanging them (since they were on sale I couldn't just return them) for a larger size, but the thighs were still too tight and then the waist was loose. I think measuring thighs is a tough thing to do consistently. Depending on the angle you take from inner to outer seam, you can get a pretty big swing in measurements. The thigh measurement was technically in spec, and I have other pants with similar thigh measurements (per fit charts), but something just didn't go my way on those. I don't think I have abnormally large thighs or anything. I guess I could just try ordering the officer trousers and then return them if the fit is off. I've (hopefully) learned my lesson on buying unreturnable items in brands where I don't have sizing down. EDIT: The officer trousers are mighty pretty pants, tho. I might have to roll the dice.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 15, 2018 10:57:10 GMT -6
Does anyone have the flight trousers from Railcar? I'm still considering getting rid of my funny fitting CF canvas chinos. I struck out on LF NYC. Thinking about giving these guys a try.
Also saw that Shockoe does a canvas chino in khaki. Quite a bit more expensive, but it's selvedge. They say its canvas, but the pix look more like a twill. Probably prefer the camel color from Railcar anyway. More of an authentic duck canvas color IMO.
EDIT: Oops, never mind. It is a canvas. Found another pic.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 10, 2018 15:40:40 GMT -6
I wonder if the Portuguese would have stuck the right pocket on a solid inch lower than the left? Dammit. But on the bright side it appears aligned!
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Travel
Jan 10, 2018 11:34:45 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 10, 2018 11:34:45 GMT -6
My wife goes to all these conferences. Often, I tag along. We were scheduled to go to Puerto Rico for a meeting in January, but that has been relocated for obvious reasons. So...looks like I'll be headed to Phoenix instead. Can't wait to see what Roman is up to. Seriously though. I know its a ways off, but I'm looking for beer, coffee, food and clothing store recs. I like to jump on planning this stuff early. Then I get to anticipate for awhile which is half the fun. I haven't been to PHX in awhile. I vaguely remember some really good Neopolitan style pizza place. There was also a great French restaurant called Coup de Tart ( I think?), but that has almost certainly folded by now. EDIT: Also, recs on hipster neighborhoods to walk around in. I think I'm staying at the Biltmore. I will have a car. I can provide you with as many recommendations as you need on the beer front. As for Roman...that's funny. You may be better served to swing by Mesa and visit Manny. I haven't been to many of the spots he used to frequent, but Phoenix is an oddly small town (for the largest land mass city) - he still hasn't slithered out from under his rock yet. To our benefit. The AZAG is still probably waiting around for the first repayment check. I'm leaving for PHX tomorrow, assuming an impending snow storm doesn't ground me. Gimme some recommendations for neighborhoods to walk around in and any good breweries. Sounds like clothing stores are kind of a bust (?).
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Post by nate001 on Jan 10, 2018 11:27:09 GMT -6
People! Being upset that a Gustin shirt doesn't fit you is like Christmas in January. Go spend your money on good shirts for once. Ratio shirts. Ratio shirts. Ratio shirts. Ratio shirts.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 9, 2018 10:59:52 GMT -6
speaking of rough-out. Last year i bought a pair of Chippewa service boots in tan suede (1901M27) on deep discount. I don't wear them often, but i've got them on today and i'm starting to wonder if these are actually a rough-out leather and not suede. Is there any way to truly tell the difference? They look almost identical to the RW Merchant boots posted above. Very neppy and rough across the entire outside of the boot while the inside is smooth and soft. The product description these boots is "SAND SUEDE FULL GRAIN, AMERICAN HIDE". But isn't suede traditionally a thinner split-leather and not full grain? My understanding, like you, is that rough out implies the full thickness of the hide, with the smooth surface facing in and the rough surface (what would be the "inside" of the skin on the animal) facing out. Suede implies the hide is split in some way so the full thickness of the animal skin is not used. That said, I think those terms are loosey goosey and inconsistently applied (even when a bootmaker like Chippewa should know better). My guess is your Chippewa boot would be rough out leather rather than suede as rough out is a stronger material. I think suede and rough out leathers in general probably have the same type of care restrictions though (ie, don't use boot polish), but I would defer to the care instructions for the particular shoe/boot.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 9, 2018 9:24:59 GMT -6
100% agree with this. By the time you have worn them enough to know whether you need to give up or not, they are (probably) too worn to return. It's a real catch 22. I suppose this is why ebay exists.
I sized down on my RW merchants (size 12) compared to my RW Beckmans (size 13) despite being made on the same last. I felt like my feet were sliding around in the size 13 merchants. I happen to know a guy who works for RW and he told me as long as you can wiggle your toes, the boots will fit eventually, and I could wiggle my toes in a 12, so I went with those. Breaking in was a pretty long process (~3 months, wearing them about 3x/week) that was aided by a shoe tree, but now they're good and continue to get better. Not as comfy as my Beckmans, but those are five years old.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 9, 2018 8:20:38 GMT -6
Sorry you had a bad experience with those. It's a unique problem. I would say most RW break in complaints are forefoot tightness and the tongue gussets digging into the top of the foot. I haven't heard of anyone having problems with the insole digging into the bottom of the heel. If you have room in the boot otherwise, you could try an insole insert I suppose. In my experience, most folks say the breaking in is painful, but you just have to keep wearing them and the more you wear them the faster it goes, but at a certain point you don't want to torture yourself. It sounds like you have a good pair now though.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 18:19:37 GMT -6
I have these too and the more i wear them the more I like them. The crocking is really coming along too, which I like. They seem to be somewhat under appreciated by the red wing fan boys.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 13:40:22 GMT -6
ncbluegrass, any word on your shrunken ass shirt? Isn't their factory in NC? Just drive it on over and get it fixed up!
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 10:50:53 GMT -6
Weds That's a 9 lives shirt, right? That fabric is so cool. What are your thoughts on the sleeve construction? The SE site calls it a raglan sleeve, but it looks like there is an extra wedge of fabric right at the shoulder. Does that make a better fitting sleeve or no difference? They also do something kinda different in the back with a middle seam going down. Does that effect the fit at all?
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 10:22:45 GMT -6
gaseousclay, another possible reason for your socks wearing out is the material. Darn tough socks are a wool/nylon blend that I think are more wear resistant than cotton, which I think is what Anonymousism socks are made from. Darn tough also has a higher percentage of nylon than many other wool socks so they are more resistant to wear than say, SmartWool socks, which I have found wear out in the heels very quickly.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 10:10:37 GMT -6
What! Those pockets are so clearly misaligned! Jokes!
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 10:07:31 GMT -6
This is honestly why alcohol exists. And sweaters. You can hide nearly all shirt flaws with a sweater. It's the only way I'll wear my one Gustin oxford. We all have our little pet peeves. Mine seems to be unsymmetric leg twist on non-denim pants. Also one of the reasons I don't do a lot of home repairs/improvements. I always see my own mistakes and can't unsee them. My approach to shirt pattern alignment is to insist on horizontal alignment across the front and sleeves. I'm willing to forgive the rest of it (for the most part).
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Socks
Jan 8, 2018 9:38:38 GMT -6
Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 9:38:38 GMT -6
Darn tough. They are indestructible. do their socks have reinforced toes? I was lamenting the other day how so many of my socks now have toe holes. I noticed this with my pairs of Anonymousism socks and my SDA socks, so I hesitate to spend extra money on socks now because of this issue. maybe I have gargoyle toenails or something. The pairs I own do not have reinforced toes, but I mostly have the "lifestyle" styles, which are, for the most part, the thinnest and lightest weight. Perhaps the heavier styles (hunting, etc.) would have toe reinforcements. That said, I haven't seen much of a need for toe reinforcements on the pairs I own. I may not have gargoyle feet, but there are essentially no signs of wear on any of the darn tough socks I own and some pairs are over 5 years old. I fact, I had to tell my wife to stop getting me darn tough socks as gifts. Since they never wear out, I am running out of space in my sock drawer.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 8, 2018 9:33:56 GMT -6
Isn't IH up to your standards 9/10, Bentin? Beyond the loom skewing of the 129s, I'd love to learn from what you're seeing. Not even IH specific it'd just be fun to see examples of misaligned areas missed by 8 out of 10 Beware! You'll end up findings alignment flaws in all (or most) of your shirts and then will be bummed. I think bentin did a primer some time back and I looked at my patterned shirts with somewhat disappointing results. It has taken hours on a therapists couch to get to the point where I can ignore the flaws
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Post by nate001 on Jan 7, 2018 14:31:43 GMT -6
Guys, I need your recommendations for boot socks. No fancy colors or textures, just good ol' boot socks that last a long time and are comfortable. I'm pretty hard on my socks with my outdoor activities and finding good socks ain't that easy. I had those RW ones before, but they wore out in a matter of weeks. Wasn't too impressed with them considering the price. I'd like the socks to be padded in the toe, heel and sole areas, but besides that, I'm open to your suggestions. Thanks Darn tough. They are indestructible.
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Post by nate001 on Jan 2, 2018 12:49:39 GMT -6
Well, i decided to wear the shirt and see how i liked it. Wore it all week between Christmas and New Year and started to really like the fit. It looked great as a layering piece, either buttoned or unbuttoned and the extra material in the back didn't seem as pronounced after the shirt settled. But then I washed it. As i always do, cold cycle with cold rinse and hang dry. The 9oz chamois shrunk so much that it's now unwearable. I lost over 2" in sleeve length, 2.25" in overall length, 1" in the shoulders, and .5" in the cuff. I was shocked that this material shrunk so much. Ah, bummer. Yeah, they will definitely take care of the problem, but it is a surprising amount of shrink. I ordered a blue linen gingham and olive mesa flannel recently. Looking forward to getting them. It was a little Xmas present to myself. That and a pair of chaco sandals. I was able to customize everything on them, assembled in USA, and I got them in under a week. These are seriously comfy sandals and, unlike flip flops, you can actually wear them banging around in the woods or whatever.
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Post by nate001 on Dec 17, 2017 10:25:13 GMT -6
Bad experience with my canvas chinos. I received them and they fit well, but there was a twist in the left leg such that the outer seam was turned maybe two inches clockwise. Super annoying. Again, these are canvas, not denim, so there really shouldn’t be any twisting, plus the right leg doesn’t have any twist. I returned them with a note saying there was a twist to the left leg and that I liked the pants, but wanted a pair without the twist. I received the replacement pair yesterday and either I got the exact same pair back, or every pair of size 36 caramel canvas chinos has a twist to the left leg. I’ll be sending these back for a refund. I’m bummed because the fit is really good, but this seems like an obvious manufacturing defect. Also, I tend to be someone who, once I notice a defect can’t really “unsee” it.
Is this twisting other people have noticed with non-denim pants generally or canvas chinos specifically? Ironically, my first pair of CF canvas chinos had a twisted leg too. I had Ciano make me another pair and there is no twist now, but I was looking to replace them for other fit issues (see post above). I don’t have twist in any other pair of pants I own across lots of different brands.
I guess i’ll Just embrace the slightly quirky fit of my CF chinos. God knows I waited long enough to get them.
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Post by nate001 on Dec 14, 2017 10:21:57 GMT -6
The one henley I have from them fits weird. The neckline is bizarre and it is boxy and out of spec. I really just like their t-shirts. Trying one more pair of jeans before I give up. Second this. Stay away. The collar is really weird.
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