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Post by nate001 on Dec 1, 2015 12:24:31 GMT -6
Agree with what's been said so far. The last time I looked, not all smartwool socks are made in USA. Also, I find they wear out pretty quickly at the heel. For wool socks, Darn Tough is heads and above everyone else. I've had a few pairs for a couple of years and haven't been able to put a hole in them. They literally have a lifetime guarantee. There is a pretty wide range of styles; running, hiking, hunting, or "lifestyle" which is stuff I have for the winter. You can also wear them a few times and they don't stink. I've had luck with Dapper Classics for thinner "dress socks" that you would wear with loafers or the like. Made in USA, nice quality. Pretty price competitive when compared to Italian brands. For athletic socks, I've had good luck with Wigwam. Also all made in USA. Other made in USA socks that I've looked at, but don't own: Fox River, FITS
Are the Keens made in USA? I went to the site and they don't mention where they are made, which usually means they are made in China. Looks like they are trying to make more of their stuff in the US. Good for them. I have a pair of their snow boots and they are awesome. Bought them before they started up US production though.
I don't know about the rest of you, but I am more inclined to buy a brand where at least SOME of their products are made in the US, even if the specific item I'm buying isn't made in USA.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 30, 2015 17:04:48 GMT -6
I just pulled the trigger on a white OCBD. Boring I know, but it fills a void left by outgrowing my G OCBD. Does it really take 3+ weeks to make? Maybe even 5. My shirt came closer to 2 weeks, certainly no later than 3. I did get an email recently from them saying that they expect higher demand during the holidays, so maybe you'll have more of a wait. Even with the longer waits, still significantly less time than gustin, similar prices and a better fitting, better constructed shirt, in my opinion. I'd love to hear what you think of it. My next shirt will definitely be from them.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 25, 2015 15:44:52 GMT -6
But most pants makers don't offer multiple inseam lengths (unless we're talking bespoke stuff), so what is different with Gustin? G just tweaked their denim sizing to come up with chino sizing. Didn't see a reason to mess with the inseam, so they kept that the same. It's only two inseam sizes, going off the premise that the taller you are, the bigger you probably are. Do you think they should have just gone with 36" for inseam across the board? I suspect you're right...they just went with the same measurements from their jeans (more or less). I'm probably the wrong guy to ask about inseam length preferences since I'm 6'5"' but it would make sense to me to go longer (36") inseam on selvedge (denim, twill or canvas) and shorter (say 34") on non-selvedge chinos. I don't think that would be too hard. The assumption here being that most of their customers will cuff to show off selvedge ID's, which I think is a fair bet.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 25, 2015 14:29:03 GMT -6
But most pants makers don't offer multiple inseam lengths (unless we're talking bespoke stuff), so what is different with Gustin?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 25, 2015 13:52:20 GMT -6
Add me to the list of chambray lovers. I have two. A red selvedge chambray from Taylor Stitch and a blue Japanese organic from Ratio clothing. I really like both. There does seem to be a great variation in fabric. The TS fabric is a little rougher and stiffer. The Ratio fabric is, dare I say it, buttery soft. The Ratio fabric is a little spendy, and I have touted Ratio Clothing elsewhere on this forum, but man, they make some great fitting shirts.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 25, 2015 13:45:39 GMT -6
I have these as well and I really like the fabric. I don't understand why Gustin only provides a 36" inseam for chinos in my size, which makes no sense to me, but I definitely recommend this fabric and the chinos. Hope this helps. I posted this in another forum. The cone selvedge chinos are perhaps one of my favorite Gustin purchases. I wasn't expecting to like them so much They're killer with black shoes/boots with a cuff. While I'm not a fan of cuffing (i.e. have never cuffed), their darkness and selvedge really looks great IMHO. They do present a challenge though just like my double indigo shirt with regard to indigo transfer. You have to be really careful. These really are awesome with so much potential for evo. Hope this helps. Tough call between these their duck canvas, heavy twill, etc. Edit: Would post a pick, however, Gustin could do the same. You did make them... Following my review of other's, I guess I am in the minority despite having too damn many jeans/chino purchases:) I get their jeans at 34.5 (i.e., size 34) hoping for a conclusion of 35.5". All of my chinos measure small, period. For instance, these were purchased in size 36 and just measure 36.25" (supposed to be 37"-this is again the same with all others as stated) after a wash and IDK 5 wears. Mind you, this is in their slim fit. The end result is one kick ass fit:). Hope this helps others. Maybe I'll try a soak to get rid of excess indigo before trying to wear it with lighter color shirts. Think that will help? Re: 36 inch inseam. I always figured gustin made the 36 inch inseam to allow for cuffing. That makes sense for jeans, but how many chinos do you want to cuff? Maybe this one to show off the selvedge ID, but the majority of Gustin chino fabric is not selvedge. Curious.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 24, 2015 12:21:54 GMT -6
Opinions on the cone selvedge canvas chinos? I'm on the verge.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 24, 2015 8:07:40 GMT -6
Got a pair of 12 oz duck chinos, 34 in the 901 slim fit. The fit is great, except for the waist, which is about 1 inch too big. Fortunately, I haven't washed them yet, and the spec sheet on ciano's website says the waist will shrink about an inch after washing, so I should be good. Anyone know what kind of wash that is? Cold soak, warm soak, hot soak, washing machine? Has anyone had experience with this?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:53:08 GMT -6
So now that I've settled on Japanese denim, what does it mean when denim is from Okayama prefecture? Does that mean there is a single denim mill in that part of Japan, or do all the mills in that area produce denim with similar characteristics? Is there a strong regional difference in Japanese mills/denim, like BBQ here in the US? Most, if not all of the Japanese mills are there. Sort of like our one US mill is in NC. There is a lot of variety with the Japanese mills. RgT tends to use Nihon Menpu (supplies Sugar Cane, Mr Freedom and others), LF uses Collect Mills (Momotaro and Japan Blue) and Railcar uses Kuroki Mills (supplies a lot of US companies like 3 Sixteen and Tellason.) So does Nihon Menpu (to choose a mill at random) specialize in a particular style of denim, and collect mills another, etc. Or is is more like craft brewing in the US, where everyone makes an IPA or a porter, or whatever, but has their own approach?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:25:23 GMT -6
So now that I've settled on Japanese denim, what does it mean when denim is from Okayama prefecture? Does that mean there is a single denim mill in that part of Japan, or do all the mills in that area produce denim with similar characteristics? Is there a strong regional difference in Japanese mills/denim, like BBQ here in the US?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 10:07:32 GMT -6
Wow, this is tremendous. Thanks to everyone for chiming in. I've created a thread that has turned "hot"; I'm so proud. As it stands now, I think I've narrowed it down a bit. I think I'm going to do Japanese denim, made in 'merica. The Japanese brands and/or loomstate stuff is tempting, but I see that as "next level" stuff that I will probably tackle on my *next* pair. I think there are local retailers that sell RailCar, Rogue, and Left Field, all of which have at least some options in Japanese denim. Does anyone know if any of those options are made in house? The Gustin Oki are still in the running too. I just have to figure out if I will be able to go try the other brands on before the Gustin funding ends. Even if I miss out on the Gustin Oki, it seems like they come around fairly often, right? That's where I'm at now. Comments? Have I overlooked anything? I know RailCar and Left Field are in-house production, and I believe Rogue Territory is. If you have option to try all those on, and price isn't much of an issue, I don't think you'll have any trouble unless the fits just don't work. Where Gustin runs lots of fabrics, these guys typically don't, so anything they choose to run with is usually pretty well vetted, Left Field probably being the most fabric-adventurous of those brands. Gustin tends to run the Okayama Standard about once a month these days, I'd say. Thanks for the info exophobe. Like many of you, I'm trying to balance saving $100 with the Gustins vs. trying on the other stuff and knowing that fit will be good and there is less chance for QC issues. The struggle continues...
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Post by nate001 on Nov 20, 2015 9:55:27 GMT -6
Wow, this is tremendous. Thanks to everyone for chiming in. I've created a thread that has turned "hot"; I'm so proud. As it stands now, I think I've narrowed it down a bit. I think I'm going to do Japanese denim, made in 'merica. The Japanese brands and/or loomstate stuff is tempting, but I see that as "next level" stuff that I will probably tackle on my *next* pair. I think there are local retailers that sell RailCar, Rogue, and Left Field, all of which have at least some options in Japanese denim. Does anyone know if any of those options are made in house? The Gustin Oki are still in the running too. I just have to figure out if I will be able to go try the other brands on before the Gustin funding ends. Even if I miss out on the Gustin Oki, it seems like they come around fairly often, right?
That's where I'm at now. Comments? Have I overlooked anything?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 15:14:41 GMT -6
This is how a collection happens. You can't decide so you back a pair of Gustins thinking they will be the one, you get impatient and the IH are released so you buy those also. Yea, I've gone from one pair of jeans three hours ago to about four pairs in shopping carts spread across the interwebs. You have unleashed a monster. Goddammit.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 14:46:41 GMT -6
Completely unrelated to my original question, but I feel like this thread is answering all my denim queries: How do you keep the leather patch from turning blue after a soak? Wax? Just live with it?
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 14:08:45 GMT -6
I have a few pairs of Cone denim, it's good stuff. But I greatly prefer Japanese denim. By and large, the Japanese are trying to recreate pre-war denim. They use lower tension, heavier weights and uneven tension to create more interesting, less uniform denim. There are extremes like the Oni Secret denim or PBJ, but there are lots of options between those and a standard Cone. I also prefer the added texture and fit potential of unsanforized denim and the direct pricing from Japan on Rakuten is appealingly cheaper than shopping Tellason, Rogue Territory, 3 Sixteen, Left Field or Rail Car. Those brands all do some cool stuff, but the Japanese do too, frequently for less money. It's great to be able to try things on. But even when I have, in hindsight, I haven't always got my sizing perfect. I'm learning to buy uncomfortably tight when new, especially with lower tension, because it's going to stretch plenty. And a warm soak will do wonders to loose jeans. Find a brand that seems interesting to you and then narrow it down to a pair you really like. We're all in this for different reasons. I'm covered in normal, contrast stitching denim. 11oz, 12.5oz, 14oz and 22oz. So I'd like some indigo x black, like either the Momo 0702BL or the PBJ XX012's. That's great advice bentin, thanks. I know there are some threads here on ordering through Rakuten that I could look over, but it does seem a little intimidating. I'll go back to the Gustin Okayama standard...would that fit the bill for you denim-wise (ie lower tension, other interesting Japanese qualities) or does the (at least perceived) lower quality construction make it not worth it? I guess these are philosophical questions, but ones I can't help asking.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:33:13 GMT -6
Oni XXBE? Momotaro 0702BR? The Strike Gold Mud Wefts? Again, forgive my naivete, but what is it about Japanese denim? The denim itself? Some kind of special cut/construction? A little bit of both? Would you rather have the most amazing Japanese denim with so-so fit and contruction or visa versa? (I say this as I read my Gustin email with the okayama standard drop) Also, if fit is the primary concern, maybe I should be trying these things on before I buy them. I live in the Twin Cities and there are a number of quality denim purveyors. Sorry for all the questions, but having read this forum for awhile, I don't think anyone will mind opining on these matters at some length
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:14:22 GMT -6
In house is definitely nice, because of the relatively customized fit and options, but for me, at least among some of the brands, their fabric options does nothing for me. Are you looking to stick with just indigo, or are you interested in expanding your warp color options as well? I've been wearing my G Downtown Browns pretty much every day, and am looking to pull the trigger on some Zimb cotton IndigoxBlacks. I'm up for expanding color, but probably just on weft. Something in the gray, beige would be OK.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 13:12:18 GMT -6
Naively, I never considered denim being a collectors item, but I suppose I should have. It reminds me of old episodes of Cribs on MTV when you'd see some rapper show off his walk in closet full of sneakers.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 19, 2015 11:19:43 GMT -6
I've been on this forum for a couple of months and I've been impressed with the opinions of its members. I don't think I've seen this question posted anywhere else on the forum, and it might be unanswerable, but here goes:
What is the next pair of jeans I should buy? Some background:
I'm a relative newcomer to selvedge denim. The only pair of selvedge jeans I own are tellasons in cone denim, I think 13 oz. They are wearing in great...super comfortable with great fades and are about 4 years old. I can't wear jeans to work, so I don't need a huge arensal of denim, but I'd like to expand my options a bit. I'd like to stick to traditional indigo with a medium weight, prefer around 14 oz...nothing more than 16 oz. I would also prefer made in USA, but I'm OK with Japanese (or Italian) fabric. Cost isn't really an issue, but I'm not sure I want to shell out $350 for a pair of Roys. I'd like a slimmer fit, with a little bit of a taper to the bottom of the leg. Definitely not skinny though. I've considered Gustin, but I kind of like the idea of a brand that makes their jeans in house. Ciano is the obvious choice I suppose; I have a pair of chinos from Ciano Farmer in the slim cut that I really like and I'm OK with waiting a few months, but I was wondering if anyone else here had any great ideas.
There you have it selvedgestyle. Let me know. Also let me know if I left out any important information you need to provide guidance.
On a separate note, how do (some of) you guys have so many pairs of jeans? Even if I wore jeans every day, I don't think I could own more than 5 or 6 pairs and still wear them with any frequency. Do you have stacks of denim that goes unworn for weeks at a time? No judgement, just curious.
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Post by nate001 on Nov 4, 2015 15:34:11 GMT -6
Just got a Ratio shirt in organic chambray last week. I have two Gustin shirts in slim XL and while they fit pretty well, the ratio fits much better in my opinion. I'm a swimmer and while I'm not huge across the shoulders and chest, most of the time shirts that fit in the chest drop straight down and the shirt then balloons around the waist. The ratio shirt comes in below the chest so its more fitted (though not snug) at the waist, which is the first time I've ever had a shirt that seemed to do that. But if you aren't built that way, you can adjust your blueprint accordingly. Creating a "blueprint" is pretty easy. The only information you might not know off the top of your head are your neck, sleeve and chest measurements.
I ordered my shirt to be sometimes worn tucked, sometimes worn untucked and the length is longer than Gustin, which is good. Sometimes I have some trouble keeping my Gustins tucked in.
Prices vary depending on the fabric, but are overall comparable to slightly higher than Gustin. The website says four weeks from order to shipping, but I think I got mine in less than three weeks.
The craftmanship on the Ratio seems impeccable. I don't know all the industry terms for stitches, and construction, but there aren't any stray threads, which is not something I can say for Gustin.
In short, a great shirt. I will definitely be buying my next shirt from them.
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Post by nate001 on Sept 21, 2015 12:55:15 GMT -6
Just heard from Ciano this weekend. Looks like they may have found a different option for corozo buttons, so hopefully the pants that were waiting on that issue (like mine) will be finished and out the door soon. Kudos to you Ciano for being so straightforward with these issues. I don't know about the rest of the forum, but I feel better about waiting if I know why I'm waiting.
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Post by nate001 on Sept 21, 2015 11:07:43 GMT -6
I've been to all three, BlackBlue the most because I live in St. Paul and its close to my kid's daycare. Martin Patrick 3 is huge and sells bespoke suits, furniture, grooming supplies in addition to a pretty wide selection of denim. From what I recall Naked and Famous is the biggest selection, but they have a few more, maybe freenote? Askov Finalyson is smaller and they seem to be the Japanese denim source in the Twin Cities. Probably just one or two brands though. BlackBlue is also small but carries a lot of denim, mostly US brands like Left Field, Tellason, Baldwin, Raleigh. They also carry APC. I've purchased stuff from all three and have enjoyed it.
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Post by nate001 on Sept 18, 2015 12:41:18 GMT -6
In the Twin Cities there is a gem of a guy named Satchel. He runs a denim repair shop out of his apartment called Science and Kindness. He used to work at a great denim shop in St. Paul, but now is on his own. He's darned a pair of tellasons for me that had blown out on the cuff and were threatening to blow out around my phone wear. He also tapered the leg a bit. I'm pretty sure he also does chainstitched hems, but he's never done that for me. There is a Science and Kindness instagram page where I guess you could contact him (?). I'm local, so I don't know about shipping.
The darning thing to me is amazing. I know there are a few places that offer it, mostly in CA, but not many in the midwest (maybe a place in Chicago too?). Its like you can bring these things back from the dead.
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Post by nate001 on Sept 16, 2015 8:51:04 GMT -6
Hey, new member...just joined today, but I did order a pair of CF 12oz ochre duck chinos at the recommendation of this forum. I ordered on Memorial day and am still waiting. HOWEVER...I did email Ciano through the contact us tab on cianofarmer.com and received a speedy response (less than a day). For my pants, he's waiting on corozo buttons, which come from a supplier in South America. The supplier said they'd be shipped September 1, but he hasn't heard anything yet. He did offer quite a few button options as substitutes, but since I'm not in any huge hurry and I really like the look of the corozo buttons, I told him I'd wait. Not sure why I got a response from Ciano and others haven't. I don't think I did anything tricky/unusual with my update request. Ciano does seem truly sorry about the delays though, if that's any consolation.
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Post by nate001 on Sept 16, 2015 8:42:52 GMT -6
Hey. Been lurking for awhile and finally decided to join. Been into US made stuff for a couple of years now. Don't have a lot of denim, but I'm learning a lot reading this forum. Have gotten a couple of shirts from Gustin and am waiting on an order from CF.
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