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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 17:48:17 GMT -6
Like the hardware, pocket bags, and patch. Not as keen on the Pocket stitch detailing. The dry clean thing is just odd.
Toss up some fit pics when you get a chance.
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Post by ickes on Jun 15, 2015 17:51:30 GMT -6
The pockets on the chambray shirts are a bit strange. I thought the same thing about the pockets. A little bit of "engineered garments" type of thing. I thought the sale price of $100 isn't too far out of line, but since the XL is a 44" chest, I'm out. So many new American companies entering the garment field just don't make stuff large enough for a lot of Americans. I was looking to buy a Buzz Rickson Naval Chambray in XXL, which would work for me, but are sold out until late Sept, and can't find any through any Japanese vendors. I've been looking at a lot of Buzz Rickson stuff myself....for a while now. I really like the looks of their stuff. |
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Post by ickes on Jun 15, 2015 17:53:37 GMT -6
Anyone here dry clean, or know someone who does this for denim? Plus, I would think if you never soaked them, you would get blow-outs, or holes in short order. They do look good with the Orange amp in the backround! Good eye on catching the Orange amp...I didn't notice it the first time and had to go back and look at the pics again. Yeah they actually look pretty damn nice but as others have stated, what's up with the Dry clean only recommendation? |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 17:55:18 GMT -6
Like the hardware, pocket bags, and patch. Not as keen on the Pocket stitch detailing. The dry clean thing is just odd. Toss up some fit pics when you get a chance. Assuming you're talking about the back pockets, they'd have to sew through the rivets (or space the stitching further apart) to do it any differently. Ciano does his hidden rivets the same way. |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 17:56:04 GMT -6
I've been looking at a lot of Buzz Rickson stuff myself....for a while now. I really like the looks of their stuff. I really like Schott, too, but they can't resist silkscreening "GO USA" all over their clothes.  |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 18:10:43 GMT -6
Yes, the hardware is REALLy that thick, substantial and unique. Very high quality. The change pocket actually works for me. It's easier to use than it looks. I do like the back pocket stitch. It's definitely unique but not overdone. As far as the fit goes, pre-wash I really like the taper on these. As far as the dry clean only thing, I actually emailed them about it. I think they're trying to say don't put it in the wash. I think it's silly and confusing, and I doubt you treat these any different than any other raw jeans lol. Overall, I'm highly impressed. EDIT: Oh, and that tag on the back pocket you see there....yeah, it's a full, thick piece of leather. Haha. EDIT 2: Oh, and on their denim mills, according to them: "We use various Japanese mills for our shirts & denim. It really depends on the feel, texture, weight & quality of the fabric. As of right now, we're using fabric from kaihara & Nihon." |
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Post by davelewis on Jun 15, 2015 18:15:07 GMT -6
I thought the same thing about the pockets. A little bit of "engineered garments" type of thing. I thought the sale price of $100 isn't too far out of line, but since the XL is a 44" chest, I'm out. So many new American companies entering the garment field just don't make stuff large enough for a lot of Americans. I was looking to buy a Buzz Rickson Naval Chambray in XXL, which would work for me, but are sold out until late Sept, and can't find any through any Japanese vendors. I've been looking at a lot of Buzz Rickson stuff myself....for a while now. I really like the looks of their stuff. I like the looks of the Rickson stuff a lot, as they stay true to the original specs, and manufacturing processes. I've chatted with Charlie at History Preseveration, and he told me if they get enough requests for something specific, that Sugar Cane will do a run for them, but it has to meet a minimum, to do it. |
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Post by gaseousclay on Jun 15, 2015 20:00:25 GMT -6
Nice pics. They really do look good. I thought they were a white line selvedge so it's cool to see they're a blue line instead.
My one and only problem is that they're unsanforized. I've never bought unsanforized denim before so have no clue how to size. Did you size up one full size? Give us some references, like what sizes you wear in other brands.
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Post by variable on Jun 15, 2015 20:01:46 GMT -6
Those are pretty swank pants.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 20:08:21 GMT -6
Like the hardware, pocket bags, and patch. Not as keen on the Pocket stitch detailing. The dry clean thing is just odd. Toss up some fit pics when you get a chance. Assuming you're talking about the back pockets, they'd have to sew through the rivets (or space the stitching further apart) to do it any differently. Ciano does his hidden rivets the same way. good point, but i mainly noticed it on the coin pocket. |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 20:24:49 GMT -6
@wiskeyriver Those are nice! Well worth the money. How do you like the fit? Higher rise than most.
I doubt they're un sanforized. The description says wash: raw.
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 20:28:45 GMT -6
Nice pics. They really do look good. I thought they were a white line selvedge so it's cool to see they're a blue line instead. My one and only problem is that they're unsanforized. I've never bought unsanforized denim before so have no clue how to size. Did you size up one full size? Give us some references, like what sizes you wear in other brands. i don't think they're unsanforized, am I missing something? |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 21:13:15 GMT -6
They are unsanfordized. Alan Chan confirmed it via email. He says his personal preference is for his denim not to touch water at all, hence the dry clean thing. He says "I find the only way to really get the stink out is to send them to the dry cleaner. I know it sounds crazy but it works." I am gonna do the soak the old fashioned way. gaseousclay, it's easy. Especially with the length, you won't have to worry about them getting too short (the inseam can shrink up to an 1" usually - but I've personally seen more). You don't have to size up, so to speak. Just consult their size chart. The size 36 says waist is actually 36". I knew that would be just a LITTLE loose on me (I'm 35.5"), but being unsandfordized at size 34 (at 35" listed on their site) would be too tight. So shrinking them to fit will work perfectly. All you do is turn them inside out, run water in your tub to get it as hot as possible (I turned my hot water heater temp up all the way), fill the tub up until it's just higher than the jeans (make sure they are weighed down with something that won't also leach color or weirdness into the water), soak them for at least 30 minutes, let them drip dry for about an hour, and put them on wet. They'll dry on you and as they do, shrink and mould to your body. When they are fully dry, you can then get them starched again if you want to (I do) if you want them to be stiff and wear in like a new pair. It's said that this gives you better creases and better fades. After your soak and dry shrink to fit you can also feel free to get them hemmed as it will have shrunk basically as much as it's gonna. Maybe leave a little length in case you decide to wash them and dry them later on down the line (I wouldn't). |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 21:26:22 GMT -6
They are unsanfordized. Alan Chen confirmed it via email. He says his personal preference is for his denim not to touch water at all, hence the dry clean thing. He says "I find the only way to really get the stink out is to send them to the dry cleaner. I know it sounds crazy but it works." I am gonna do the soak the old fashioned way. gaseousclay, it's easy. Especially with the length, you won't have to worry about them getting too short (the inseam can shrink up to an 1" usually - but I've personally seen more). You don't have to size up, so to speak. Just consult their size chart. The size 36 says waist is actually 36". I knew that would be just a LITTLE loose on me (I'm 35.5"), but being unsandfordized at size 34 (at 35" listed on their site) would be too tight. So shrinking them to fit will work perfectly. All you do is turn them inside out, run water in your tub to get it as hot as possible (I turned my hot water heater temp up all the way), fill the tub up until it's just higher than the jeans (make sure they are weighed down with something that won't also leach color or weirdness into the water), soak them for at least 30 minutes, let them drip dry for about an hour, and put them on wet. They'll dry on you and as they do, shrink and mould to your body. When they are fully dry, you can then get them starched again if you want to (I do) if you want them to be stiff and wear in like a new pair. It's said that this gives you better creases and better fades. After your soak and dry shrink to fit you can also feel free to get them hemmed as it will have shrunk basically as much as it's gonna. Maybe leave a little length in case you decide to wash them and dry them later on down the line (I wouldn't). Confirmed? I'm just wondering how you learned about it in the first place since it doesn't say that anywhere on the site. |
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Post by ickes on Jun 15, 2015 21:27:36 GMT -6
Unsanforized denim is my favorite and is really the best way to go IMO. I personally don't wear them when they are still wet and I would advise anyone that does to be careful to not sit down or bend your legs much at all if you really do want to put them on when they are still wet. You will get some serious knee bags if you bend your legs a lot when the denim is still wet. It's cool to see that these are unsanforized. I didn't notice that when I looked at them earlier. They look like some decent jeans. Have you had a chance to soak them yet whiskeyriver? How is the fit? |
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Post by ickes on Jun 15, 2015 21:30:16 GMT -6
hmmm..it doesn't say that they are unsanforized on the site as exophobe stated. You would think they would mention that, it's kinda important. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 21:43:53 GMT -6
They are unsanfordized. Alan Chan confirmed it via email. He says his personal preference is for his denim not to touch water at all, hence the dry clean thing. He says "I find the only way to really get the stink out is to send them to the dry cleaner. I know it sounds crazy but it works." I am gonna do the soak the old fashioned way. gaseousclay, it's easy. Especially with the length, you won't have to worry about them getting too short (the inseam can shrink up to an 1" usually - but I've personally seen more). You don't have to size up, so to speak. Just consult their size chart. The size 36 says waist is actually 36". I knew that would be just a LITTLE loose on me (I'm 35.5"), but being unsandfordized at size 34 (at 35" listed on their site) would be too tight. So shrinking them to fit will work perfectly. All you do is turn them inside out, run water in your tub to get it as hot as possible (I turned my hot water heater temp up all the way), fill the tub up until it's just higher than the jeans (make sure they are weighed down with something that won't also leach color or weirdness into the water), soak them for at least 30 minutes, let them drip dry for about an hour, and put them on wet. They'll dry on you and as they do, shrink and mould to your body. When they are fully dry, you can then get them starched again if you want to (I do) if you want them to be stiff and wear in like a new pair. It's said that this gives you better creases and better fades. After your soak and dry shrink to fit you can also feel free to get them hemmed as it will have shrunk basically as much as it's gonna. Maybe leave a little length in case you decide to wash them and dry them later on down the line (I wouldn't). Confirmed? I'm just wondering how you learned about it in the first place since it doesn't say that anywhere on the site. Confirmed. Been emailing with Alan Chan. Seemingly a very cool dude. Great customer service. Last email: "Ryan, Right on. A hot soak should do the trick. As always, please feel free to contact me if you need anything else. Have a great night. All the best, Alan Chan" |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 21:48:35 GMT -6
Unsanforized denim is my favorite and is really the best way to go IMO. I personally don't wear them when they are still wet and I would advise anyone that does to be careful to not sit down or bend your legs much at all if you really do want to put them on when they are still wet. You will get some serious knee bags if you bend your legs a lot when the denim is still wet. It's cool to see that these are unsanforized. I didn't notice that when I looked at them earlier. They look like some decent jeans. Have you had a chance to soak them yet whiskeyriver? How is the fit? Yeah I left that part out. Thanks ickes. I put them on wet and then go for a walk. Ha ha. In the Florida heat and sun, they dry out.....fast. Ha ha. And no not yet. Tonight I grilled burgers and then went for a run. Ha. EDIT: oh, and to clarify and remove all confusion, he also said "Yes, they are unsanforized. That's just my personal preference." |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 21:57:08 GMT -6
That makes my decision easy. The largest size 36 is what I need post soak. Interesting that they don't account for shrink in the sizing. Or even tell you how much to expect.
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 22:11:09 GMT -6
I ordered a pair and have now sent them an email since I likely haven't ordered the right size. That fabric looks 100% sanforized (particularly the close up shots with a very smooth and uniform surface to the denim), so I'm not sure if it's actually unsanforized. Going off the pictures of the denim and the descriptions on the website, there's no indication that these aren't sanforized raw denim. Some companies seem to think "raw" and "unsanforized" are synonymous, so even though I'm not an expert, and it makes me feel like a dick saying it, I do believe this is the case here, particularly since they're cutting them at a 34" inseam, and the sizing advice as relayed here matches what one would expect for sanforized raw denim, not unsanforized raw denim. But hell, maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, I'd have to defer to ickes to see what kind of comparable shrinkage to expect in sanforized vs unsanforized. |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 22:11:50 GMT -6
That makes my decision easy. The largest size 36 is what I need post soak. Interesting that they don't account for shrink in the sizing. Or even tell you how much to expect. They do, they tell you "dry clean only". |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 22:30:57 GMT -6
That makes my decision easy. The largest size 36 is what I need post soak. Interesting that they don't account for shrink in the sizing. Or even tell you how much to expect. They do, they tell you "dry clean only". Yes they did.....that's not gonna happen. My unsanforized Onis lost a full two inches in the waist, first soak, maybe a quarter with the second. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 22:31:16 GMT -6
I ordered a pair and have now sent them an email since I likely haven't ordered the right size. That fabric looks 100% sanforized (particularly the close up shots with a very smooth and uniform surface to the denim), so I'm not sure if it's actually unsanforized. Going off the pictures of the denim and the descriptions on the website, there's no indication that these aren't sanforized raw denim. Some companies seem to think "raw" and "unsanforized" are synonymous, so even though I'm not an expert, and it makes me feel like a dick saying it, I do believe this is the case here, particularly since they're cutting them at a 34" inseam, and the sizing advice as relayed here matches what one would expect for sanforized raw denim, not unsanforized raw denim. But hell, maybe I don't know what I'm talking about, I'd have to defer to ickes to see what kind of comparable shrinkage to expect in sanforized vs unsanforized. , the man that is designing and having these jeans made tells me that these are unsanfordized as he wants no water to touch his denim. I am going to take his word for it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ His emails made it clear he knows what he's talking about re: denim. Also, the tag and my own measurement show this to be a 36" inseam. |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 15, 2015 22:45:45 GMT -6
I sent Alan an email and he confirmed these are raw and that I should see a 1-1.5 size shrink on hot soak. I went up a size just to be safe, will cold soak/wash to see what they do. HOWEVER, received a response to an email sent after 9pm within about 15 minutes, so that's off to a good start, and he's confirmed that he's sizing me up. Like I said, I've already bought a pair, so we'll see what happens. If I'm afraid they're gonna shrink too much I can always follow the care instructions. whiskeyriver -- The 34" inseam measurement is off of the fit guide, so it might open it up to some of the taller fellas with a 36" inseam. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 16, 2015 12:14:22 GMT -6
FWIW, I am gonna take a pre and post wash fit photo tonight/tomorrow.
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