jtek
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Posts: 13 
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 11:41:07 GMT -6
hi Jay these guys will spend your money! enjoy Well about that... I was hoping to get some advice about which jeans to buy. I am looking to buy my first pair of premium Denim jeans. I have been a Levi's guy my whole life. I have tried gap, ck and diesel. I started with Levi's 501 but for the last 3 years I have been wearing 513s which I like very much, I feel they are more comfortable than the 501s. But I am not a fan of the 513 material. After looking at some pictures, I stumbled upon Japanese raw selvedge. I really love how they look after a few months of wear. I like the material used, I like the fades, the slubbines etc. I looked at Momotaro, Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Samurai. Like I said before I really like the 513, so I am looking for something similar to the 513 cut. I don't like low rise jeans. I am looking for a slim fit, preferably straight silhouette. Not too wide below the knee and leg opening. It is my first premium jeans so I don't want 21oz heavy denim, maybe something between 14oz and 17oz.No green, black or Grey I'll stick with indigo. I wear Levi's 513 in 32/32, they fit me just fine. Levi's 501 32/32, fit me just a little bit tight on the waist and thighs. I am 5'10" 170lbs, I have a flat tummy and just a little bit athletic thighs (I used to do a lot of sports). I would really appreciate it if you could narrow my options down as much as possible because I've been looking to buy one for a while and I just can't seem to make up my mind because I don't understand the differences between the different jeans. I will be buying directly from Japan and my budget is $350 or less for the jeans not including shipping and tax. Thank you |
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Post by ickes on Dec 13, 2016 11:55:41 GMT -6
hi Jay these guys will spend your money! enjoy Well about that... I was hoping to get some advice about which jeans to buy. I am looking to buy my first pair of premium Denim jeans. I have been a Levi's guy my whole life. I have tried gap, ck and diesel. I started with Levi's 501 but for the last 3 years I have been wearing 513s which I like very much, I feel they are more comfortable than the 501s. But I am not a fan of the 513 material. After looking at some pictures, I stumbled upon Japanese raw selvedge. I really love how they look after a few months of wear. I like the material used, I like the fades, the slubbines etc. I looked at Momotaro, Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Samurai. Like I said before I really like the 513, so I am looking for something similar to the 513 cut. I don't like low rise jeans. I am looking for a slim fit, preferably straight silhouette. Not too wide below the knee and leg opening. It is my first premium jeans so I don't want 21oz heavy denim, maybe something between 14oz and 17oz.No green, black or Grey I'll stick with indigo. I wear Levi's 513 in 32/32, they fit me just fine. Levi's 501 32/32, fit me just a little bit tight on the waist and thighs. I am 5'10" 170lbs, I have a flat tummy and just a little bit athletic thighs (I used to do a lot of sports). I would really appreciate it if you could narrow my options down as much as possible because I've been looking to buy one for a while and I just can't seem to make up my mind because I don't understand the differences between the different jeans. I will be buying directly from Japan and my budget is $350 or less for the jeans not including shipping and tax. Thank you have you taken the measurements of the 501s and 513s that fit you well? Take those measurements and compare them to the respective fit guides of whatever pair you are looking for and then go from there. All of the brands you have listed are great brands. If you post those measurements I can help point you in the right direction. |
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 12:38:40 GMT -6
Well about that... I was hoping to get some advice about which jeans to buy. I am looking to buy my first pair of premium Denim jeans. I have been a Levi's guy my whole life. I have tried gap, ck and diesel. I started with Levi's 501 but for the last 3 years I have been wearing 513s which I like very much, I feel they are more comfortable than the 501s. But I am not a fan of the 513 material. After looking at some pictures, I stumbled upon Japanese raw selvedge. I really love how they look after a few months of wear. I like the material used, I like the fades, the slubbines etc. I looked at Momotaro, Pure Blue Japan, The Flat Head, Iron Heart, Samurai. Like I said before I really like the 513, so I am looking for something similar to the 513 cut. I don't like low rise jeans. I am looking for a slim fit, preferably straight silhouette. Not too wide below the knee and leg opening. It is my first premium jeans so I don't want 21oz heavy denim, maybe something between 14oz and 17oz.No green, black or Grey I'll stick with indigo. I wear Levi's 513 in 32/32, they fit me just fine. Levi's 501 32/32, fit me just a little bit tight on the waist and thighs. I am 5'10" 170lbs, I have a flat tummy and just a little bit athletic thighs (I used to do a lot of sports). I would really appreciate it if you could narrow my options down as much as possible because I've been looking to buy one for a while and I just can't seem to make up my mind because I don't understand the differences between the different jeans. I will be buying directly from Japan and my budget is $350 or less for the jeans not including shipping and tax. Thank you have you taken the measurements of the 501s and 513s that fit you well? Take those measurements and compare them to the respective fit guides of whatever pair you are looking for and then go from there. All of the brands you have listed are great brands. If you post those measurements I can help point you in the right direction. OK, here goes Levi's 513 98% cotton 2% elastane. Made in Indonesia. 17in waist, 11in front rise, 16in back rise, 10in thigh, 10in knee, 8in leg opening. Levi's 501 99% cotton 1% elastane. Made in Indonesia. 17in waist, 11in front rise, 15in back rise, 12in thigh, 10in knee, 8in leg opening. I wear the 513 everyday and the 501 maybe once or twice a week. I've had the 513 for over a year and the 501 for 3 months. I have washed the 513 many times but the 501 has never been washed. I'm actually surprised by the measurements, they are very close but the 513 feels more comfortable while the 501 feels a little bit tighter around the waist and thighs. How is that possible? All measurements were taken using the technique from this YouTube video. |
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Post by ickes on Dec 13, 2016 12:55:25 GMT -6
jtek the measurements seem odd on your 513s. I'm not familiar with that cut at all but do the thigh and knee really have the exact same measurement??? 10"?
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Post by ickes on Dec 13, 2016 12:57:56 GMT -6
jtek right off the top of my head I would say check out the 633 (SelfEdge exclusive cut), and 666 cuts from Iron Heart. I would say the 634 too but it is probably going to have too big of a cuff. Also take a look at the Rogue Territory Stanton cut.
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Post by ickes on Dec 13, 2016 12:59:17 GMT -6
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 13:02:12 GMT -6
jtek the measurements seem odd on your 513s. I'm not familiar with that cut at all but do the thigh and knee really have the exact same measurement??? 10"? Knees on the 513 seam to seam 8.5in |
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Post by scooter on Dec 13, 2016 15:24:48 GMT -6
jtek , the first question I would have for you... Would you want a sanforized, or unsanforized denim ? Things can get tricky, as far as sizing goes, with unsanforized. Edit: So, as not to sound overly negative about unsanforized denim, I will say, it does give you a wider variety of denim to choose from. They generally have more character than sanforized offerings, as well. To alleviate the shrinkage factor, many can be had in a "one wash" option, too.
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 17:18:05 GMT -6
jtek , the first question I would have for you... Would you want a sanforized, or unsanforized denim ? Things can get tricky, as far as sizing goes, with unsanforized. Edit: So, as not to sound overly negative about unsanforized denim, I will say, it does give you a wider variety of denim to choose from. They generally have more character than sanforized offerings, as well. To alleviate the shrinkage factor, many can be had in a "one wash" option, too. From what I understand sanforized is pre shrunk, one wash will not shrink and unsanforized will shrink by 1 size. They will all fade nicely but obviously the results with the unsanforized will always be better. I am leaning towards unsanforized. For my first jeans I think I will go with a Mid weight denim 14-17oz. Also, I decided to buy directly from Japan |
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Post by ickes on Dec 13, 2016 17:59:53 GMT -6
jtek , the first question I would have for you... Would you want a sanforized, or unsanforized denim ? Things can get tricky, as far as sizing goes, with unsanforized. Edit: So, as not to sound overly negative about unsanforized denim, I will say, it does give you a wider variety of denim to choose from. They generally have more character than sanforized offerings, as well. To alleviate the shrinkage factor, many can be had in a "one wash" option, too. From what I understand sanforized is pre shrunk, one wash will not shrink and unsanforized will shrink by 1 size. They will all fade nicely but obviously the results with the unsanforized will always be better. I am leaning towards unsanforized. For my first jeans I think I will go with a Mid weight denim 14-17oz. Also, I decided to buy directly from Japan Pretty much, but you can also have one wash unsanforized denim that will not shrink. Also, consider Loomstate as an option as well which will give you better character and results than any other kind IMO. |
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Post by scooter on Dec 13, 2016 19:28:02 GMT -6
jtek , the first question I would have for you... Would you want a sanforized, or unsanforized denim ? Things can get tricky, as far as sizing goes, with unsanforized. Edit: So, as not to sound overly negative about unsanforized denim, I will say, it does give you a wider variety of denim to choose from. They generally have more character than sanforized offerings, as well. To alleviate the shrinkage factor, many can be had in a "one wash" option, too. From what I understand sanforized is pre shrunk, one wash will not shrink and unsanforized will shrink by 1 size. They will all fade nicely but obviously the results with the unsanforized will always be better. I am leaning towards unsanforized. For my first jeans I think I will go with a Mid weight denim 14-17oz. Also, I decided to buy directly from Japan OK. Leaning toward unsanforized opens up some options. Buying from Japan may close a couple. Examining the brands you named previously, we may be able to narrow your list down a bit.... Iron Heart: From your preferences, I'd say, we can probably rule them out. The denim weights, and cuts are not favorable. The 633s-14 is an option. But, it's sanforized, and only available at SE. Momotaro: If I'm not mistaken, most, if not all of their offerings are sanforized. Most of their cuts are of a slimmer variety, and they are typically lower rise. PBJ: I will only say, it's all about the thighs. The rise may be an issue, as well. They do have a new cut in the works, that may suit you well. Their denims are awesome. So, it may be worth waiting a couple of months, until the new cut is produced. Samurai: Definitely a good option for you. Of all the Japanese brands I have, they are the most generous in rise. I think the S710 cut would serve you well. Unfortunately, it is currently offered in only 18, 19, and 24oz weights. The S710MOG-18oz looks fantastic, though. Even their mainstay S710XX-19oz is a great denim. If you don't mind a tad extra weight, you won't go wrong with either. Their spring/summer offerings will come soon, too. There could be a lighter weight denim involved. Again, like PBJ, a little wait may be in order. The Flat Head: Frontier denim, great stuff. Only one cut comes to mind for you..... the 3009. The rise may be an issue, though. Front rise should be close. But, the back may be trouble. A couple other options to explore... Full Count: The 1108 cut could possibly work. But, like TFH, front rise good, back rise bad. None of their denims have really caught my eye, either. Not to mention, some of the ugliest back pocket arcs. Studio D'Artisan: Great denim character. Most cuts low-to-mid rise. The 101 has the rise you want. But, the leg opening is a bit much. Edit: ONI: How could I forget ONI ? Fantastic character. I've got the olive secrets, and the kabuki vedge, both in the 546 cut. I love it. But, the back rise is as low as I'll go. The lower weight options, I've seen lately, seem to be in cuts with lower rises, as well. IMHO, Samurai would be the best bet for you. You won't go wrong with the product, either. If you wait, for a lighter weight denim from them, PBJ, and that new cut, may just get it done for you. |
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 19:43:56 GMT -6
From what I understand sanforized is pre shrunk, one wash will not shrink and unsanforized will shrink by 1 size. They will all fade nicely but obviously the results with the unsanforized will always be better. I am leaning towards unsanforized. For my first jeans I think I will go with a Mid weight denim 14-17oz. Also, I decided to buy directly from Japan OK. Leaning toward unsanforized opens up some options. Buying from Japan may close a couple. Examining the brands you named previously, we may be able to narrow your list down a bit.... Iron Heart: From your preferences, I'd say, we can probably rule them out. The denim weights, and cuts are not favorable. The 633s-14 is an option. But, it's sanforized, and only available at SE. Momotaro: If I'm not mistaken, most, if not all of their offerings are sanforized. Most of their cuts are of a slimmer variety, and they are typically lower rise. PBJ: I will only say, it's all about the thighs. The rise may be an issue, as well. They do have a new cut in the works, that may suit you well. Their denims are awesome. So, it may be worth waiting a couple of months, until the new cut is produced. Samurai: Definitely a good option for you. Of all the Japanese brands I have, they are the most generous in rise. I think the S710 cut would serve you well. Unfortunately, it is currently offered in only 18, 19, and 24oz weights. The S710MOG-18oz looks fantastic, though. Even their mainstay S710XX-19oz is a great denim. If you don't mind a tad extra weight, you won't go wrong with either. Their spring/summer offerings will come soon, too. There could be a lighter weight denim involved. Again, like PBJ, a little wait may be in order. The Flat Head: Frontier denim, great stuff. Only one cut comes to mind for you..... the 3009. The rise may be an issue, though. Front rise should be close. But, the back may be trouble. A couple other options to explore... Full Count: The 1108 cut could possibly work. But, like TFH, front rise good, back rise bad. None of their denims have really caught my eye, either. Not to mention, some of the ugliest back pocket arcs. Studio D'Artisan: Great denim character. Most cuts low-to-mid rise. The 101 has the rise you want. But, the leg opening is a bit much. IMHO, Samurai would be the best bet for you. You won't go wrong with the product, either. If you wait, for a lighter weight denim from them, PBJ, and that new cut, may just get it done for you. I thought buying from Japan would give me more options. What are the cons of heavyweight denim? Will I be able to wear it comfortably? Maybe after some break in? I'm glad you narrowed down my choices so I can focus on just a few. Waiting for a few months can be an option if there are non now. Thanks all for your advice now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. |
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Post by scooter on Dec 13, 2016 20:01:21 GMT -6
OK. Leaning toward unsanforized opens up some options. Buying from Japan may close a couple. Examining the brands you named previously, we may be able to narrow your list down a bit.... Iron Heart: From your preferences, I'd say, we can probably rule them out. The denim weights, and cuts are not favorable. The 633s-14 is an option. But, it's sanforized, and only available at SE. Momotaro: If I'm not mistaken, most, if not all of their offerings are sanforized. Most of their cuts are of a slimmer variety, and they are typically lower rise. PBJ: I will only say, it's all about the thighs. The rise may be an issue, as well. They do have a new cut in the works, that may suit you well. Their denims are awesome. So, it may be worth waiting a couple of months, until the new cut is produced. Samurai: Definitely a good option for you. Of all the Japanese brands I have, they are the most generous in rise. I think the S710 cut would serve you well. Unfortunately, it is currently offered in only 18, 19, and 24oz weights. The S710MOG-18oz looks fantastic, though. Even their mainstay S710XX-19oz is a great denim. If you don't mind a tad extra weight, you won't go wrong with either. Their spring/summer offerings will come soon, too. There could be a lighter weight denim involved. Again, like PBJ, a little wait may be in order. The Flat Head: Frontier denim, great stuff. Only one cut comes to mind for you..... the 3009. The rise may be an issue, though. Front rise should be close. But, the back may be trouble. A couple other options to explore... Full Count: The 1108 cut could possibly work. But, like TFH, front rise good, back rise bad. None of their denims have really caught my eye, either. Not to mention, some of the ugliest back pocket arcs. Studio D'Artisan: Great denim character. Most cuts low-to-mid rise. The 101 has the rise you want. But, the leg opening is a bit much. IMHO, Samurai would be the best bet for you. You won't go wrong with the product, either. If you wait, for a lighter weight denim from them, PBJ, and that new cut, may just get it done for you. I thought buying from Japan would give me more options. What are the cons of heavyweight denim? Will I be able to wear it comfortably? Maybe after some break in? I'm glad you narrowed down my choices so I can focus on just a few. Waiting for a few months can be an option if there are non now. Thanks all for your advice now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Buying from Japan does add options. The fact you prefer a little less taper from the knee down adds to that. Japanese brands make them that way traditionally. But, you also don't like low rise. Japanese brands also base their cuts on Japanese men(until somewhat recently, their primary customer base). They prefer lower rise. About weight... I'd ask, what's the climate like, where you live ? |
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 20:16:54 GMT -6
I thought buying from Japan would give me more options. What are the cons of heavyweight denim? Will I be able to wear it comfortably? Maybe after some break in? I'm glad you narrowed down my choices so I can focus on just a few. Waiting for a few months can be an option if there are non now. Thanks all for your advice now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Buying from Japan does add options. The fact you prefer a little less taper from the knee down adds to that. Japanese brands make them that way traditionally. But, you also don't like low rise. Japanese brands also base their cuts on Japanese men(until somewhat recently, their primary customer base). They prefer lower rise. About weight... I'd ask, what's the climate like, where you live ? Russia but I do spend some time in California also. I wear a base layer underneath my 513s in the winter. So I would benefit from the heavier denims. The weather here is freezing cold winters and hot summers. I probably won't be able to wear the heavy denim for 1.5 months in the summer. Which is fine by me. If weather is the only consideration then heavy denim is a possibility. |
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Post by scooter on Dec 13, 2016 20:47:39 GMT -6
Buying from Japan does add options. The fact you prefer a little less taper from the knee down adds to that. Japanese brands make them that way traditionally. But, you also don't like low rise. Japanese brands also base their cuts on Japanese men(until somewhat recently, their primary customer base). They prefer lower rise. About weight... I'd ask, what's the climate like, where you live ? Russia but I do spend some time in California also. I wear a base layer underneath my 513s in the winter. So I would benefit from the heavier denims. The weather here is freezing cold winters and hot summers. I probably won't be able to wear the heavy denim for 1.5 months in the summer. Which is fine by me. If weather is the only consideration then heavy denim is a possibility. Sounds quite similar to the weather I deal with, here in Wisconsin. My current go-to pair, September through May, are my 19oz IH. The only reason I don't wear them 12 months a year is heat. I have a couple of pairs of 14oz for summer. But, I find no difference in comfort, and wearability, outside of weather factors. I certainly don't like wearing the lighter stuff when November rolls around. I love my heavies...It always feels like you're really wearing something... |
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 13, 2016 20:52:39 GMT -6
Russia but I do spend some time in California also. I wear a base layer underneath my 513s in the winter. So I would benefit from the heavier denims. The weather here is freezing cold winters and hot summers. I probably won't be able to wear the heavy denim for 1.5 months in the summer. Which is fine by me. If weather is the only consideration then heavy denim is a possibility. Sounds quite similar to the weather I deal with, here in Wisconsin. My current go-to pair, September through May, are my 19oz IH. The only reason I don't wear them 12 months a year is heat. I have a couple of pairs of 14oz for summer. But, I find no difference in comfort, and wearability, outside of weather factors. I certainly don't like wearing the lighter stuff when November rolls around. I love my heavies...It always feels like you're really wearing something... If there's no difference in comfort then I guess heavyweight denim is an option. |
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Post by exophobe on Dec 13, 2016 21:48:49 GMT -6
jtek buying domestic will afford you more reasonable options for a return which can be indispensable when figuring this world out. Unless you have a decent network to resell into if it doesn't fit right. Other than that, these guys have got you on the right track for options. Edit: also, if you're tall be careful with those inseams on Japanese brands, especially if you go raw unsanforized.
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Post by toolonginexile on Dec 14, 2016 7:08:30 GMT -6
Sounds quite similar to the weather I deal with, here in Wisconsin. My current go-to pair, September through May, are my 19oz IH. The only reason I don't wear them 12 months a year is heat. I have a couple of pairs of 14oz for summer. But, I find no difference in comfort, and wearability, outside of weather factors. I certainly don't like wearing the lighter stuff when November rolls around. I love my heavies...It always feels like you're really wearing something... If there's no difference in comfort then I guess heavyweight denim is an option. I agree with this. Take it from Jose of us who have done this dance and spent the hard earned dough and time finding out what works There are plenty of domestic options which have a longer rise and have Japanese denim options if you want to go that way No matter how good you measure there is no substitute for trying on Genthtee to a rock and Morter store and bite the bullet full price on your first pair to try on Alternatively you can try something from left field or bravestar or self edge where exchange won't be a difficult issue |
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Post by nate001 on Dec 14, 2016 7:50:49 GMT -6
Buying from Japan does add options. The fact you prefer a little less taper from the knee down adds to that. Japanese brands make them that way traditionally. But, you also don't like low rise. Japanese brands also base their cuts on Japanese men(until somewhat recently, their primary customer base). They prefer lower rise. About weight... I'd ask, what's the climate like, where you live ? Russia but I do spend some time in California also. I wear a base layer underneath my 513s in the winter. So I would benefit from the heavier denims. The weather here is freezing cold winters and hot summers. I probably won't be able to wear the heavy denim for 1.5 months in the summer. Which is fine by me. If weather is the only consideration then heavy denim is a possibility. I don't know if when you are in California you're close to LA, but a great denim website, heddels.com, just did an article about denim shops in LA: www.heddels.com/2016/12/a-daya-on-la-brea-las-denim-strip/I don't have a lot of denim, but there is no substitute for trying something on if you have the opportunity. These shops in LA would give you a lot to choose from, both US made and Japanese made. If you're in Northern California, the bay area has tons of shops too. Self Edge in Oakland, a bunch of options in the Mission. Good luck. |
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Post by ickes on Dec 14, 2016 10:27:13 GMT -6
jtek what exactly do you mean when you say you want to buy from Japan? Are you saying you want to buy a Japanese brand, are you saying you want to buy a Japanese fabric, or are you saying you want to literally buy a pair from Japan (Rakuten)?
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 14, 2016 11:40:05 GMT -6
jtek what exactly do you mean when you say you want to buy from Japan? Are you saying you want to buy a Japanese brand, are you saying you want to buy a Japanese fabric, or are you saying you want to literally buy a pair from Japan (Rakuten)? I meant buying from Rakuten. I don't know when I'll be in LA again. I was there this summer but I didn't know I was going to buy jeans then. How do you measure your jeans? Seam to seam or from edge to edge like in this tutorial www.3sixteen.com/pages/measuring-guide-jeansI've seen people using both methods, I'm not sure which measurements to go with. Also both my 513 and 501 have 2% and 1% elastane respectively, does that effect the measurements if I'm buying raw Denim that is 100% cotton? I measeured again a bit more accurately this time using both methods and in some places there's almost 2in difference. |
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Post by ickes on Dec 14, 2016 11:50:04 GMT -6
jtek what exactly do you mean when you say you want to buy from Japan? Are you saying you want to buy a Japanese brand, are you saying you want to buy a Japanese fabric, or are you saying you want to literally buy a pair from Japan (Rakuten)? I meant buying from Rakuten. I don't know when I'll be in LA again. I was there this summer but I didn't know I was going to buy jeans then. How do you measure your jeans? Seam to seam or from edge to edge like in this tutorial www.3sixteen.com/pages/measuring-guide-jeansI've seen people using both methods, I'm not sure which measurements to go with. Also both my 513 and 501 have 2% and 1% elastane respectively, does that effect the measurements if I'm buying raw Denim that is 100% cotton? I measeured again a bit more accurately this time using both methods and in some places there's almost 2in difference. I measure my jeans exactly the way whatever brand/website says they measure theirs. Different brands/websites will have different ways to measure so I always check how they measure then look at the fit guides and choose that way. |
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Post by ickes on Dec 14, 2016 11:51:13 GMT -6
jtek since you're doing this for the first time I would highly recommend spending the extra dough and order from a site that has a good return/refund policy. I believe you can still make exchanges/returns through Rakuten but I'm not sure how smooth that process is and shipping will be relatively expensive I think.
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jtek
New Member
Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 14, 2016 14:00:02 GMT -6
jtek since you're doing this for the first time I would highly recommend spending the extra dough and order from a site that has a good return/refund policy. I believe you can still make exchanges/returns through Rakuten but I'm not sure how smooth that process is and shipping will be relatively expensive I think. I have been lucky before when I bought my leather jacket online and it fits like it was custom tailored for me. It is very important to get the measurements right. But maybe because it's my first jeans I should look at the sanforized or one wash options, that would make sizing a bit easier. |
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jtek
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Posts: 13
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Post by jtek on Dec 15, 2016 14:30:36 GMT -6
Do you know any helpful articles, posts I could read on this or other websites/forums?
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