Lawless Reviews

Dirty_Denim i probably shouldn't have included the photo in my post. that photo is actually from when the jeans were brand new and was simply used to illustrate where the 'bubbling' is taking place. i'll try to get a better one posted tomorrow.

based on your description of the yoke bubbling outward i'm pretty sure that you're correctly envisioning what is happening. i do have a bit of a butt, and the point of the yoke sits right at the top...so perhaps upward pressure from the curve of my butt and the downward pressure from my belt cause that bubbling across the yoke. *shrug* the angle of the yoke on these is a bit more steep than some of my other jeans, as well as the slightly higher rise. i'm curious if the pairs i have in the works will have a slightly lower rise and if the same thing will happen.

Hi brothers I'm into vintage receivers, turntables, speakers etc from the 70's. and when we compare 2 brands, we do an A+B comparison.
To that point, I did an A+B on my G 16ers and Lawless black waxed. I love my 16ers...don't get me wrong, But.... "God is in the detail", expressing the idea that whatever one does should be done thoroughly; i.e. details are important.[1]... (I hijacked that from wiki )...  Judge for yourselves, here is the ( link )   Just to be clear, Im in no way bashing G, But I think Lawless is clearly a better quality garment. If you'd like some other comparisons, I'd gladly take some more pics for you guys

The wide (high) yoke is the first thing I noted on the jeans, together with the small backpockets. These are the 2 things I am slightly worried about, also sporting a sporty bubble-butt. Im glad to get the peach-id test jeans to see it in person. Im thinking my own 18oz will have less of a problem with this, but good to know.

So there are a couple strange things here, which actually enforce your point. 

Your gustin "crotch seam" appears to be missing both the accompanying blue stitch that goes down the inseam, and the bar-tack in the four-way seam. It could just be the picture (the blue stitch does come close to disappearing in indigo), but if both of those are indeed missing I certainly understand your assessment.

The finishing detail (where the raw edge is finished, I think that was a pic of the fly or the inseam) shows that Roman's talk of obsession with sewing machines is more than just talk. That's something that is out of Gustin's control, however, since they don't get to dictate how the sew-shop is run. This edge finish is a matter of how the machine being used works, but locating the machine that gives the superior edge is the effort involved. There was a mention over on style forum of how Lawless was "stealing" Roy's signature fan-stitch on the fly. However, this is a specific sewing machine that does this, not some elaborate "signature move" that was invented for Roy jeans. Maybe that particular use of it is unique, I don't know cause I'm not big on the repro stuff, but if you go that far, then you're going to be accusing people of using chainstitch like other brands.

If things had worked out differently, I think it would have been cool for Lawless to pick up some of the Gustin manufacturing (perhaps the appareil version someone (I think Julian) was looking for. They put attention into it that Gustin's SF sew-shop doesn't appear to. The only possible sleight on Gustin here would be the QC (seriously, do you only have one stitch going down the inseam?), and their choice of sub-contractor. But as they've said, the San Francisco thing is big in denim culture, and that's the shop they're using is hard to get floor time in. 

Maybe you didnt mean this the way I read it. But it sounds wrong. Gustin is surely in control of their own brand, all else would be silly. If they are not happy with the produce, then they can switch to other producers. We cant just eat all mistakes bc "G cant be blamed here, its out of their control.."


I can see the second seem in the crouth on the G`s, its just blue and hard to spot.

Here's a photo of what I'm referring to with this pair. Overall a minor issue, but thought I'd mention it as this and a few seams that aren't laser straight are the only real constructive criticisms I have for these:


 

I don't like those bubbling... I have a pair of RRL that has much worst bubbling issue. I rarely wear them because of that. 

I'm actually wondering if running the belt under the patch has an affect on the "slouching" in the yoke. Either way, I'd guess taking an inch or so out of the rear rise would resolve it (obviously someone making denim would have better insight here), but I'm guessing if you pull up on the fabric under the belt it makes it better, but then it slips back down while you're wearing them.

Check my update above. Threading under the patch definitely helped a bit.

Not just women. Grrrrrrr

Anyone notice the lawless phone number is no longer in service?

first point - yeah, I just meant they don't get to decide what sewing machines their contractor has, but they certainly get to decide who the contractor is, and if they wanted to, they could say "we want you to do this better". These things are fairly bomb-proof as far as construction, and the non-visible finish edging on the fabric isn't going to decrease their longevity, so it's just a nicer detail, but not something that will make them last longer (over time, yes, but high=wear parts of the fabric are going to give out long before that). It's absolutely theirs to deal with in whatever way, but they don't buy the sewing machines is all I was getting at.

Second, see, I thought the same thing, which is why I really doubt it. The title on the picture is single vs triple, though, which is why I started with the "is the blue stitch there" thing. Either way the red bar-tack definitely isn't there, and the image isn't conclusive about the blue thread, but I would be shocked if it isn't there, cause that'd be a major oversight since it goes all the way down the inseam. If he says it is, I almost want to see the cuff, as it would be glaringly obvious there since that's a major part of the inseam structure, and typically there even on cheap Levi's knockoffs.

Anyway, here's a pic of the heavy american "crotch seam" I'm comparing against, hopefully Derek G can confirm whether that blue stitching is there, you can see in this image that it does nearly disappear, but I believe the 16ers and the Heavy American should share the same sort of stitching (also have an intereset in this since I've got Am16ers coming before the end of the year).