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Post by gaseousclay on Nov 8, 2015 16:31:59 GMT -6
Im alre already a member of the leatherworker forum, i just haven't posted much since joining. I've already watched numerous videos from Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage. Both post insanely helpful tutorials and give a lot of sound advice. I've been taking my cues from them. I just need to get my butt to the store and see what's there. The problem is i don't really like cheap stuff for the sake of being cheap. I feel like if im going to invest time/money in something i might as well buy better quality rather than have to rebuy a tool because its junk. This probably isn't financially practical but i can't help myself
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Post by Deleted on Nov 8, 2015 18:55:42 GMT -6
Im alre already a member of the leatherworker forum, i just haven't posted much since joining. I've already watched numerous videos from Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage. Both post insanely helpful tutorials and give a lot of sound advice. I've been taking my cues from them. I just need to get my butt to the store and see what's there. The problem is i don't really like cheap stuff for the sake of being cheap. I feel like if im going to invest time/money in something i might as well buy better quality rather than have to rebuy a tool because its junk. This probably isn't financially practical but i can't help myself You're doing all the right stuff. Those two (Ian in particular) are massively helpful in their videos. On tools, it's a case of which tool and what is the maintenance. There are two levels of tooling avaialble through Tandy, the regular stuff and the "pro" stuff. Quality is all over the map on both series and you really have to look at both options to decide. For example, all of my bevelers are from Tandy and they are fine. They require more frequent sharpening than an antique or custom set but they are dead easy to sharpen so it's not a big deal. Knives on the other hand, get the best you can afford as the Tandy round knife (even the "nicer" one) has a cheesy stainless blade will not hold an edge well and you'll spend a lot of time sharpening for the amount of cutting you get. Get a knife with a good, carbon steel blade. One other thing, you can sharpen a boxcutter blade to a SCARY level of sharpness using a leather strop and jewelers rouge. A fifty pack of blades and a nice handle that holds them in a stable way will do you well when you're starting out. Sharpen them a few times then pitch them out....just be careful, you can get them sharp enough to cut you to the bone with zero pain. Ask me how I know Round punches and so forth, Tandy stuff is workable but you'll have to sharpen almost all Tandy stuff, including punches, extensively before first use. There's lots more to say and you can PM me if you want, I'll answer any question I'm qualified to answer but you're already on the right track and can likely find all you need with the info sources you cited.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2015 20:30:43 GMT -6
Couple of poor quality shots of my Marshdown olive belt:
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2015 9:03:16 GMT -6
Thanks @david. Glad you like the belt! I really like the two rows of holes on the double tounge belts/buckles. Is that some secret denim?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2015 9:10:44 GMT -6
@stevekas yeah, the two holes works well with this weight and color. they are the secrets. they haven't seen much wear since i got them mid-summer...but now that the temps are cooling off they'll be in the rotation.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2015 10:35:31 GMT -6
@stevekas yeah, the two holes works well with this weight and color. they are the secrets. they haven't seen much wear since i got them mid-summer...but now that the temps are cooling off they'll be in the rotation. You aren't too far behind me. Mine have a couple months of wear but they are already fading/fitting really well. You'll love them more each day.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 21:15:11 GMT -6
Any interest? Pounded copper buckle, 1.5 inch and if I make them I'd sell them with a belt, probably saddle skirt as the buckle is faceted and has variations from hammer forming. .....ahem..cough cough.....looks "rustic". It's as raw as copper gets so while it looks pretty shiny now, depending on your local weather you'll get anything from a dark brown, old penny look to a blue patina (salt air etc) as it gets used and exposed to the elements. While making this, there are several cycles of heating (anneal) and hammering (work hardening) the last step is always hammering so the buckle is not going to bend. No idea on price yet, but wondering if the basic interest is there.
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Post by DigDug on Nov 17, 2015 22:09:08 GMT -6
Any interest? Pounded copper buckle, 1.5 inch and if I make them I'd sell them with a belt, probably saddle skirt as the buckle is faceted and has variations from hammer forming. .....ahem..cough cough.....looks "rustic". It's as raw as copper gets so while it looks pretty shiny now, depending on your local weather you'll get anything from a dark brown, old penny look to a blue patina (salt air etc) as it gets used and exposed to the elements. While making this, there are several cycles of heating (anneal) and hammering (work hardening) the last step is always hammering so the buckle is not going to bend. No idea on price yet, but wondering if the basic interest is there. Cool! I just was working on a variation of a copper roller. It's very easy to get the blue/green patina in a couple of hours - put a couple sheets of paper towel in a bowl, put the buckle on to, pour ammonia over soaking the towels, put kosher salt on top, cover. Turn and soak,salt as wanted/needed.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2015 22:23:35 GMT -6
Cool DigDug, that's a good method for getting that Patina. When I was really young kid, my dad showed me how to clean pennies with ketchup to make them bright copper and then turn them blue that way. I thought it was magic. I was easily amused at 4 years old. I think if you let your kids play with ammonia these days they get taken away. Post up that roller if you feel like it. We'll do a collab.....DigTown
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Post by stinky on Nov 18, 2015 15:44:48 GMT -6
^^That's a sweet-ass buckle @stevekas. Want.
I'd pay extra if you guaranteed that it would break a knife if someone tried to stab me.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2015 16:27:45 GMT -6
Thanks stinky. I'm leaning toward making 4-5 of them and seeing how it goes. As for knife proof, I'll wear one the next time I see my ex wife and report back. That sounded like a Johhny Carson joke.
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Post by stinky on Nov 18, 2015 16:41:33 GMT -6
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2015 19:18:59 GMT -6
Man stinky, I've become so apolitical in my 40's that I didn't even get the reference. Sometime after the age of 30 it all seemed to blur into slightly different shades of corporate/lobby controlled gray. Thanks, this will help me avoid embarrassment outside in the real world despite having suffered it here....which has already happened hundreds of times so I'm used to it.
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Post by stinky on Nov 19, 2015 8:50:16 GMT -6
Man stinky, I've become so apolitical in my 40's that I didn't even get the reference. Sometime after the age of 30 it all seemed to blur into slightly different shades of corporate/lobby controlled gray. Thanks, this will help me avoid embarrassment outside in the real world despite having suffered it here....which has already happened hundreds of times so I'm used to it. Well, the good news is that you picked a Carson, the bad news is that you picked the wrong one. Let me know when you are producing your Bad-Ass Knife-Disintegrating Buckle of Anti-Death(tm).
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Post by wdw on Nov 19, 2015 14:36:50 GMT -6
Here's my new Marshdown belt. Specs are 1.5" Natural 11oz saddle leather, square nickel buckle. I needed a light coloured belt and this seemed ideal, as it's a shade you very rarely see. I'm thinking it will work well with my RW IR Hawthorns and also beige Clark's desert boots. I don't think I'll condition it as I want it to stay as light as possible. The last belt I had from Steve was an 8oz and noticeably thinner than my three Equus belts, so I upsized for this one. I also gave custom measurements based on the Equus and I'm please to say that this belt seems to be the same thickness and is spot-on size wise. I'm very happy with it, so many thanks to Steve. The price is also eminently reasonable for a belt this thick. As an aside, this was made in a few days, got to LAX about two days after despatch, then went dark to the extent I thought it was lost. It turned up after 5 weeks from despatch, having had a nice vacation in Germany for about three weeks. Alright for some
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Post by stinky on Nov 19, 2015 15:38:04 GMT -6
If you treat it with something that has a high wax content, it will stay lighter for a longer period--at least that has been my experience with veg-tan.
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Post by wdw on Nov 19, 2015 15:51:10 GMT -6
If you treat it with something that has a high wax content, it will stay lighter for a longer period--at least that has been my experience with veg-tan. Thanks. What would you suggest?
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Post by stinky on Nov 19, 2015 16:11:20 GMT -6
wdw, I use something called Blackrock Leather 'n' Rich, but i think it's only available here (and hard to find at that), you could likely use a clear, high quality shoe polish or something along those lines. I'd try it out in the flap area on back first (or a random piece of veg tan if you have any) to see if it darkens upon application. Basically, with the waxy coating, you are building a barrier between the leather and any oils/moisture that cause it to darken over time.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 19, 2015 17:45:02 GMT -6
wdw - Thanks for posting up! I'm glad that belt finally showed up. I had genuinely written it off. I'm shocked it went to Germany, too cold there this time of year. You're doing it wrong, belt. The stuff stinky mentioned is good and his words are true, waxy stuff - less darkening, more water/oil proof. Oily stuff - more darkening and waterproofing depends on the product.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 20:04:34 GMT -6
Hey all, just launched a mini Kickstarter. Just throwing it out there in case anyone is in the market. I have no idea how viable this effort will be, it will be a great social networking/marketing learning experience though.
Happy Holidays.
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Post by beeranddenim on Dec 2, 2015 20:07:24 GMT -6
Gonna try the vinergaroon process soon. My son (12) and I made a black guitar strap for him and the EcoFlo dye just isn't as deep, even and especially waterproof.
What is your neutralization ratio backing soda:water?
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Post by beeranddenim on Dec 2, 2015 20:09:48 GMT -6
If you treat it with something that has a high wax content, it will stay lighter for a longer period--at least that has been my experience with veg-tan. Thanks. What would you suggest? Is that what atom wax does?
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Post by exophobe on Dec 2, 2015 20:22:12 GMT -6
Hey all, just launched a mini Kickstarter. Just throwing it out there in case anyone is in the market. I have no idea how viable this effort will be, it will be a great social networking/marketing learning experience though. Happy Holidays. Just a couple things. You don't mention the belt width in the campaign, and the second paragraph in the campaign uses the wrong "capital". To make people more comfortable, I'd also add the sizing info (even though you won't collect that data until the survey). Finally, you should definitely have a picture of your dopp kit up there, you'll have no trouble funding it if you do, I'd guess.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2015 20:44:03 GMT -6
exophobe , thanks! I definitely need to clean a few things up, I launched it in "beta" for for sure. I'm uploading pics tonight and I'll hit the points you noted, a couple of embarrassing oversights there. Much appreciated. beeranddenim , not sure if you were asking me or stinky but I use a couple of tablespoons or so of baking soda to neutralize vinegaroon. My scientific method is to soak a while, pull the piece our, sniff, if you smell vinegar, drop it back in. Don't leave it in there longer than 20 minutes or so though, you'll end up with a soggy mess. Most of the time it takes under ten minutes. Agitation helps.
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Post by beeranddenim on Dec 2, 2015 22:33:23 GMT -6
Thanks. Will try your scientific method.
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