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Post by brentkuz on Jun 25, 2015 0:13:08 GMT -6
Gustins fits continue to confuse me in this case slim vs straight chinos and jeans.
Recently got in 36 straight black 2's and desert duck canvas chinos.
I wanted to test straight out due to the calf area being semi-tight in the slims especially after washing.
Finally got the straights in. They don't feel like a straight at all. They are not really that close to spec either. Instead of feeling like a true straight cut jean they feel more like a slim with a boot cut. Top block, thigh, calf all feel the same slim/straight but the cuff opening is slightly more wide on the straight.
I do like the straight but it's just a weird fit.
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Post by exophobe on Jun 25, 2015 1:31:31 GMT -6
I think the difference between the fits below the knee has always been amazingly dramatic, and the straight seems to get wider at the hem on the pairs I have. I'd love if they actually had a slim straight since the straight fit really doesn't work for me, and the slim is really more of a slim taper. if you need novelty denim but prefer a slim straight, the weird guy from n&f seems to be similar to Gustin in the top block but be an actual slim straight from the knee down.
As a disclaimer, I think they've messed around with the straight fit in the last six months or so based on what I've read here about the hem width, so my info may be out of date on the straight.
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Post by brentkuz on Jun 25, 2015 9:17:00 GMT -6
I just don't get it. Near the knee it's about the same for slim and straight but the straight gradually flares out to a wider hem.
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Post by bentin on Jun 25, 2015 9:26:23 GMT -6
Both fits are off for me. Ckeck other brands, instant and quick fulfilment are kinda cool.
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Post by bugula on Jun 25, 2015 9:42:01 GMT -6
with the strength of the dollar (or the weakness of the yen) G is looking a lot less of a value play.
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 25, 2015 10:58:01 GMT -6
I've wanted to try a straight for the extra thigh room, but that hem is throwing me off. Brentkuz, you think the thigh is similar in slim and straight? That sucks. I'm going to start a jean company for people with thighs.
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Post by bentin on Jun 25, 2015 11:05:40 GMT -6
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Post by brentkuz on Jun 25, 2015 11:17:17 GMT -6
I've wanted to try a straight for the extra thigh room, but that hem is throwing me off. Brentkuz, you think the thigh is similar in slim and straight? That sucks. I'm going to start a jean company for people with thighs. Yes I can only speak with 36 straight and slim but my straight black2's are about the same as my slim zimbs. |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 25, 2015 11:18:08 GMT -6
Good to know. 180 for cone mills is weak though |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 25, 2015 11:59:12 GMT -6
Good to know. 180 for cone mills is weak though That's really the low-end of the going rate for selvedge denim from boutique brands, though. Railcar, Left Field, Rogue Territory, Tellason, Taylor Stitch (when they do selvedge)... Gustin and Ciano Farmer really undercut those markets, you pay the difference in time to delivery. |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 25, 2015 12:15:01 GMT -6
Good to know. 180 for cone mills is weak though That's really the low-end of the going rate for selvedge denim from boutique brands, though. Railcar, Left Field, Rogue Territory, Tellason, Taylor Stitch (when they do selvedge)... Gustin and Ciano Farmer really undercut those markets, you pay the difference in time to delivery. Sure. But I just paid $162 for some Onis from Denimio and they'll be here in less than a week. I don't think I could ever justify spending $220 on a pair of run of the mill denim that I could get half price from G. I guess if the fit was right.. |
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Post by bentin on Jun 25, 2015 12:25:23 GMT -6
That's really the low-end of the going rate for selvedge denim from boutique brands, though. Railcar, Left Field, Rogue Territory, Tellason, Taylor Stitch (when they do selvedge)... Gustin and Ciano Farmer really undercut those markets, you pay the difference in time to delivery. Sure. But I just paid $162 for some Onis from Denimio and they'll be here in less than a week. I don't think I could ever justify spending $220 on a pair of run of the mill denim that I could get half price from G. I guess if the fit was right.. Meh, Cone makes plenty of interesting stuff. Plenty of boring stuff too. But construction on Left Field is certainly fancier than Oni and if the fit works, I wouldn't call $180 expensive. They offer some Collect Mill stuff in the Atlas fit, but they're $220 and have stretch, something I don't really like in jeans. There are plenty of Japanese brands that offer larger thighs, including Oni, but you mentioned American made, hence ready to go Left Field. They've said they'll expand that fit to other denim soon. Or just have Ciano make something that fits the way you want. |
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Post by bugula on Jun 25, 2015 12:59:09 GMT -6
i have larger thighs and the following brands have worked for me: Oni, Pure Blue Japan, Japan Blue, Momotaro, Strike Gold, Skull...so there are options. and with JB trending so cheap right now...  |
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Post by bentin on Jun 25, 2015 13:12:18 GMT -6
i have larger thighs and the following brands have worked for me: Oni, Pure Blue Japan, Japan Blue, Momotaro, Strike Gold, Skull...so there are options. and with JB trending so cheap right now... 04xx cut JB's? |
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Post by ickes on Jun 25, 2015 13:23:50 GMT -6
Skull, the strike gold, and PBJ are all on my radar although I'm not sure I agree that PBJs make fits for guys with thighs. I checked all of their fits and I would have to size up 1 to 2 waist sizes (depending on which cut) to get some that fit my thighs.
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Post by bugula on Jun 25, 2015 14:04:22 GMT -6
xx-012 for PBJ and JB0412 for JB - i went by the thighs for each but the waist isn't noticeable large. i will say that below a 34" waist, maybe the measurements are wonkier but with a 35" waist, those cuts work for me and my cycle thighs.
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 25, 2015 8:15:54 GMT -6
I am now convinced. Gustin's "straight" fit is really a boot cut. Both chinos and jeans.
The straights still have a slim thigh, taper in at the knee area then flare out like a boot cut.
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Post by northcoast on Sept 30, 2015 20:13:08 GMT -6
This topic absolutely drives me insane.
I wear 36 in JCR** Slim Straight 1040. Fits me great. Gustins Slim fits me great except the calves are too tight.
I ordered some Gustin 36 straights. The crotch is way too low and the leg opening is way to wide. In my mind they should just make the taper less in the slims and have a slightly bigger leg opening at the bottom, call them slim straights and I think they would sell a lot more jeans.
They are seriously shooting themselves in the foot with all their sizing models.
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Post by oatwilly on Sept 30, 2015 20:24:09 GMT -6
They need to re-do the "Slim" to come in right in-between their Straight and Skinny fits. The super tight pegged ankle made sense until they introduced the Skinny. Now they have 2 fits with tiny ankles. They need to re-work the Slim by opening the ankle a little bit, and bringing the front rise up to 11". Then they'll have 3 distinct fits with enough variation between them
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 30, 2015 20:25:33 GMT -6
They need to re-do the "Slim" to come in right in-between their Straight and Skinny fits. The super tight pegged ankle made sense until they introduced the Skinny. Now they have 2 fits with tiny ankles. They need to re-work the Slim by opening the ankle a little bit, and bringing the front rise up to 11". Then they'll have 3 distinct fits with enough variation between them I would like to see a legit straight fit from g. |
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Post by exophobe on Sept 30, 2015 20:28:27 GMT -6
They need to re-do the "Slim" to come in right in-between their Straight and Skinny fits. The super tight pegged ankle made sense until they introduced the Skinny. Now they have 2 fits with tiny ankles. They need to re-work the Slim by opening the ankle a little bit, and bringing the front rise up to 11". Then they'll have 3 distinct fits with enough variation between them I think the slim is fine exactly where it is. At a wider hem there would no longer be a Gustin fit that I would want to wear. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Sept 30, 2015 20:31:39 GMT -6
They need to re-do the "Slim" to come in right in-between their Straight and Skinny fits. The super tight pegged ankle made sense until they introduced the Skinny. Now they have 2 fits with tiny ankles. They need to re-work the Slim by opening the ankle a little bit, and bringing the front rise up to 11". Then they'll have 3 distinct fits with enough variation between them I think the slim is fine exactly where it is. At a wider hem there would no longer be a Gustin fit that I would want to wear. 1 billion percent agree. I like it as is. |
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Post by gaseousclay on Oct 1, 2015 5:30:00 GMT -6
I think the slim is fine exactly where it is. At a wider hem there would no longer be a Gustin fit that I would want to wear. 1 billion percent agree. I like it as is. agree with your agreement |
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Post by oatwilly on Oct 1, 2015 12:50:50 GMT -6
Really? You guys realize the tiny ankle look is a fad right? When it's over you'll all be stuck with a closet full of jeans that are just barely starting to break in, but won't want to wear because you'll feel like everyone else that they look silly
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Post by matt on Oct 1, 2015 13:03:27 GMT -6
I'm going to have to be in the boat with whiskeyriver, exophobe and gaseousclay. The G slims are spot on. I think the fit isn't too tapered, but appropriate given the overall slim fit of the denim. I actually think the front rise at 10" is ideal and have been looking at other options that fit like this as well (the slight fit from United Stock Dry Goods is as well). I have a pair of the G skinny as well. While it took a little getting used to, I don't mind it. Something to consider with the fits is how densely the denim weave is. For example, there are several pairs of Gs that are noted as a "tighter weaved denim" (Japan BluexBlack, Italy Double Ink, Cone BluexBlack, etc.) - this will most likely impact the fit as they will be a little tighter right from the start. |
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