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Post by northcoast on Nov 21, 2016 13:37:03 GMT -6
Minor rivet issue. I have found one that is not completely flush with the fabric.
Whats the best way to smash it down?
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Post by northcoast on Nov 21, 2016 12:50:57 GMT -6
I do like that burgundy. Anyone care to take a shot at why that placket is all pulling? That looks super annoying to me, on the model and in the picture above.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 21, 2016 9:54:23 GMT -6
In my experience it can be all worth it, IF you can get things dialed in. I have a small handful of companies that I know work for me. Every time I try to expand that list it's generally expensive and time consuming. This just comes with the territory of small manufacturing and in my case, sizing outside the normal range. The fit is really good on mine...the second time around. It's just painful waiting so long for something and then finding out its out of spec or whatever (my original anniversary pair was 2" under spec in the waist). I'm lucky to have a local denim repair guy that does good work. I don't think I could handle waiting a month for a button hole repair. That being said, it does feel good to support a small manufacturer. It's all cost and benefits, isn't it? Hey, I hear you man. Mine were under spec in the waist and I waited like 4 + months to deal with it because I knew it would take a lot of energy to correct, and it has, both on my part and on CF's part. But they worked with me to get it right, and the thing is, when they do get it right with each of us, it give us an opportunity to dial in our size and buy more from them, and gives them an opportunity for future business. I suspect this new business has been challenging on their end as well since most of their prior business had to do with making work clothes, and now they are attempting to serve a more fashion oriented market. Good times had by all!
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Post by northcoast on Nov 21, 2016 9:35:12 GMT -6
Aaaand, the stiching around the top button hole is coming off. I'm going to my denim repair guy tomorrow. Hopefully he can fix it. Have folks with similar problems gotten theirs back from CF? Was he able to fix the problem? I'm beginning to wonder if all this is worth it. In my experience it can be all worth it, IF you can get things dialed in. I have a small handful of companies that I know work for me. Every time I try to expand that list it's generally expensive and time consuming. This just comes with the territory of small manufacturing and in my case, sizing outside the normal range.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 20, 2016 13:49:43 GMT -6
The Kingman shirt is an amazing piece for $119. The 9.5 oz selvedge chambray is a starchy beast and the shirt just oozes handmade details like the plad binding on the armholes, double river button cuff, selvedge at the cuff and placket and beautiful stitching. Picture below with gustin Italian midnight denim, excuse my dirty closet. imgur.com/He5NMoMThe pants were a slight disappointment, just like every other duck pant I've purchased for some reason. The fabric has no play so the sizing has to be nails, which it definitely isn't. The waist is almost an inch over the sizing chart and an easy 1" small at the knee and hem along with an inch short on inseam. Quality looks good, but not quite as impressive as the shirt. I'll probably end up returning because the loose on top, tight on bottom look is exactly what I was trying to avoid with the slim straights. I want to buy this, but I'm stuck on pondering the square pockets. I'm not sure why but they kinda bug me.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 20, 2016 0:29:03 GMT -6
wearing them today--going to have to hem them, though. thinking about doing a 1" hem like they have right now with either dark blue or maroon thread, one inch too long so i can flip the bottom of the cuff up like i do with my other chinos. Do these camp pants have a regular leg opening? in the pictures at TS' webpage, the brown canvas pants seems as if they have an elastic leg opening, similar to jogger pants. Am I correct? No elastic.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 19, 2016 13:26:35 GMT -6
I have the green version of this and I like it a lot. This blue one has nice contrast. These run slightly smaller than other G T's I have, probably because of the washing process, but they stretch out enough to be similar in sizing. I have the green and black. Black leaves everything black, like you walked through a coal mine. That sucks, glad I didn't buy that one. No bleeding issues on the green I have.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 19, 2016 11:29:00 GMT -6
I have the green version of this and I like it a lot. This blue one has nice contrast. These run slightly smaller than other G T's I have, probably because of the washing process, but they stretch out enough to be similar in sizing.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 18, 2016 16:53:38 GMT -6
i've found myself becoming less and less excited about 3sixteen's drops. I call it the Iron Heart effect. Everything seems to begin and end with Iron Heart. First, we scoff at IH's prices and seek out cheap alternatives. Then we get tired of QC issues with said cheap alternatives and go with mid-range brands. After doing the rounds with various mid-range brands you slowly get over the sticker shock of IH and come back around full circle. Amirite? I keep trying to justify $345 for that purple ombre western but I just cant do it yet.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 15:52:16 GMT -6
I'm 90% sure it's the same fabric as the OG duffle cloth. Feels the same, smells the same, and creases the same. Also frays fairly easy, like the duffles Smells the same...... those stanky, musty, low notes
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 15:15:55 GMT -6
Those are some seriously cool boots. The fabric reminds me of the old selvedge duck that was used to make duffle bags. Yeah, it looks exactly like the 'Nam duffle bag I have from my Dad.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 14:36:06 GMT -6
I would have backed the Japan Emerald for $99 but not at $149. Japan Navy still at 0%! Yeah, I'm pretty sensitive to their price points myself. I have no idea how they calculate their premiums for certain items.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 13:10:25 GMT -6
Lord G has been helping me keep money in my pockets lately. I'm basically waiting for some poplin shirts with interesting prints. Is skewed and randomly flipped 90° not interesting enough?! Not if the print stinks. Most of the things they have been finding lately would appeal greatly to bizzaro.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 12:46:14 GMT -6
Lord G has been helping me keep money in my pockets lately.
I'm basically waiting for some poplin shirts with interesting prints.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 12:25:34 GMT -6
I received a reply from Nick Horween WRT the composition of this leather. - NC NC - Could you tell me what the difference is between zug grain and Scotch Grain Latigo? Nick - They are similar in processing but the Latigo has a higher oil content and tends to be a little mellower (softer). The latigo also develops a more pronounced patina. The grain patterns are similar other than size - the latigo has our “baby scotch” grain in this case, while the Zug is the larger, traditional scotch grain. Ah, good to know. I have a pair of tricker's zug/scotch grain. unlike the latigo, the scotch grain has a very plasticky look that takes a long time to go away. They look great now and keep getting better, but the first 6 month of wear, I kept thinking that I was wearing brown rubber rain boots. I took this pic about a year ago (note: these are zug, but not veldtschoen [waterproof]): Those look nice, and I could see where that would get annoying till they mellowed. Yeah, I was kind of hoping that this would be good winter wear, and it seems they will, just not quite as good as scotch grain. But man, English scotch grain is expensive. > (note: these are zug, but not veldtschoen [waterproof]): See, I thought the veldtschoen just meant how the uppers were attached. https://www.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/3ifocw/some_questions_about_veldtschoen_boots_and_their/
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 10:22:56 GMT -6
If I'm not mistaken, this is the exact leather that (American) footballs are made of. Sounds about right. I just bought a pair before they sold out of my size and I regretted not buying them. $25 tin of Venetian Shoe cream thrown in, was a no brainer. I've been wanting some of the English shoes that use Zug leather for awhile now to wear in foul weather. Still would like a pair of derbys in that leather. I think this leather should wear similarly to Zug but may not be quite as waxy. If they don't fit quite right I can always give them to my nephew for his XMAS/Birthday combination. I received a reply from Nick Horween WRT the composition of this leather. - NC NC - Could you tell me what the difference is between zug grain and Scotch Grain Latigo? Nick - They are similar in processing but the Latigo has a higher oil content and tends to be a little mellower (softer). The latigo also develops a more pronounced patina. The grain patterns are similar other than size - the latigo has our “baby scotch” grain in this case, while the Zug is the larger, traditional scotch grain.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 9:34:30 GMT -6
I was initally thinking of jungle boots. So, these boots ARE actually modeled after the ORIGINAL "jungle boots" that were issued in Okinawa, Japan to the US Forces that were en route to Vietnam.....
www.mooremilitaria.com/okinawa-boots-10d.htmlNice. These are not the cruddy US Army Surplus Jungle boots I wore in the 80's - 90's. Those eventually drove me nuts because the heel wore fast on concrete.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 17, 2016 7:30:22 GMT -6
Those are interesting. I was initally thinking of jungle boots. Design wise, I have difficulty with outdoors boots, that are not cowboy sytle, with no tread. How do they feel walking around? I'm imagining the uppers lace up pretty snug.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 14:38:25 GMT -6
I won't do a write-up, because there just isn't much more I can say about this man's skills except "He's still getting BETTER!" As good as my engineers are, the construction is notably better... Could just appear that way, because these definitely were more "technical" in the design and construction. Beautiful boots. Although, I've always wondered why bootmakers choose to use these one-piece eyelets. I don't understand why they don't use the more refined two-piece one that are smooth on the back as well. These things, like the eyelets in all of my Tricker's boots, chew up laces quickly. Perhaps the boots are loss leaders and they make their real money on replacement laces . . . (rushes home to look at his boots...........) Man, that might be why my White's have chewed up laces in spots. THanks for the mental note to ask for this next pair I order.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 11:56:16 GMT -6
Yeah, just the stark white tape. They do that to most of their denim shirts. That and the goofball pockets just keep me away. i don't hate the tape (or pockets) enough to keep from picking up their utility shirts (only have the ISC in this cut, wish i had also purchased the natural cross jacquard at the workshop price)...but the most annoying thing about the tape for me is that it's typically paired with fabrics that are sure to crock...meaning that tape is sure to be splotchy and partially indigo covered as soon as it hits water. Excellent point on the contrast and the crocking. The only taped shirt I have of theirs is white anyways so it's not noticeable.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 11:55:13 GMT -6
Pockets I can accept. The contrast of the tape not so much. It's not a bad deal at $98. Maybe you could tone it down with some dye or something. But I'd just put the $ towards a shirt that's right. Not sure who has one that has that type denim, look, price off the top of my head. RgT has neppy denim (all cotton, no filler) in multiple cuts, but the price is double. Catch it on sale though and it's a no brainer. RgT fit is a little slimmer than TS, especially in the gut. I just returned one of theirs (Rgt) in the neppy wash. Great fabric. I don't like this fabric much.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 11:46:36 GMT -6
northcoast I emailed about sizing and Nick Horween said you can always exchange up or down no problem. Not sure if my size 9.5 is still in stock but I might try it out Cool. Yeah, I'm a 12 and I doubt an 11 is going to fit me. As mentioned upthread, the pair of shoes I own from Canada West is TTS so I'm hopeful. I'm not sure I'm sold on the laces though. Kinda looks like it may be small holes so may have to go to round waxed laces vs. flat waxed. And with the straight rubber sole they should be easy to walk in on day one. The GYW guys were saying that Canada West was making Vibergs first few versions of their initial GYW offerings. I'm just not sure why so cheap unless Horween gave them a deal on leather that was seconds?
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 9:21:36 GMT -6
If I'm not mistaken, this is the exact leather that (American) footballs are made of. Sounds about right. I just bought a pair before they sold out of my size and I regretted not buying them. $25 tin of Venetian Shoe cream thrown in, was a no brainer. I've been wanting some of the English shoes that use Zug leather for awhile now to wear in foul weather. Still would like a pair of derbys in that leather. I think this leather should wear similarly to Zug but may not be quite as waxy. If they don't fit quite right I can always give them to my nephew for his XMAS/Birthday combination.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 8:40:41 GMT -6
I work at a desk in an office. It seems as though many of the rest of you do too. If you work in an office, how is your pocketknife used? FWIW, I carry a wallet, phone and keys with a bottle opener on it. The bottle opener has seen heavy use in the past week. To open boxes. Well, rarely. I go back and forth on carrying it. I like the feel of it in the pocket, and think I may be able to use it for self defense, but probably not. I stopped my knife fetish at 4 pieces, 1 of them I should probably sell and there are a couple more I would not mind having.
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Post by northcoast on Nov 16, 2016 7:30:57 GMT -6
I carry a blade with a Marlin Spike. I find I use the spike more often. Not that I'm a sailor (who it is originally for). This looks pretty cool. Untying a lot of knots ehh?
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