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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 9:12:17 GMT -6
Bottom line. Not enough big (or small) guys buy our stuff. Almost invariably when we do a run of XS-XXXL, we are left with XS, XXL & XXXL when all the other sizes have gone. If we sold out of XXXL quickly every time we introduced something, I'd be mad not to make more XXXL next time around and almost as mad not to say "hey, we're selling all the big stuff, let's see what happens when we introduce something bigger still"...
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Post by DigDug on Jun 8, 2015 9:13:53 GMT -6
I started wearing Selvedge a couple of years ago mostly as work wear (got tired of myself and every other guy wearing Carhartt).
Do you see the Selvedge growing as a fade/trend that will burn out? Or more as the standard of clothing simply being raised?
Will Denim styles continue to evolve Or possibly recycling around to Bell Bottoms and acid wash?
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 9:34:47 GMT -6
I think we will see a lot of the band wagon jumpers disappear. I see no reason why decent brands that make good stuff and are true to their roots will disappear. I pay zero attention to "fashion" trends, so can't comment....
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Post by Old26 on Jun 8, 2015 9:35:41 GMT -6
Bottom line. Not enough big (or small) guys buy our stuff. Almost invariably when we do a run of XS-XXXL, we are left with XS, XXL & XXXL when all the other sizes have gone. If we sold out of XXXL quickly every time we introduced something, I'd be mad not to make more XXXL next time around and almost as mad not to say "hey, we're selling all the big stuff, let's see what happens when we introduce something bigger still"... Thanks giles - but maybe it's because - and I've been looking on and off for years - that us big guys just gave up? It's so odd that only guys with "average" numbers spend money on good casual/work wear? I know that I never even look at IH any more unless it's for jeans. And while we're on this, how much does it add to cost to make more sizes - assuming the patterns are already in existence? So, you have a run of your normal sizes, what costs are added by making some 4XL? Thanks again! |
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Post by brentkuz on Jun 8, 2015 9:38:05 GMT -6
I think we will see a lot of the band wagon jumpers disappear. I see no reason why decent brands that make good stuff and are true to their roots will disappear. I pay zero attention to "fashion" trends, so can't comment.... So what you are trying to say is IH won't be making and faux-selvedge like JCPenney. Shucks! I'm interested in the 634 non selvedge. Might have to look into it more. |
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Post by julian on Jun 8, 2015 9:41:37 GMT -6
giles: aside from IH's denim, is there any other specific denim that has been produced that you've thought was particularly interesting or desirable over the last few years?
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Post by ickes on Jun 8, 2015 10:27:43 GMT -6
giles, one quick question; 1. The 633S cut (SelfEdge collaboration) is the best fit I have yet to find in a pair of jeans. As of right now there are currently only two fabrics available in this cut. Are there any plans to release this cut in more fabrics in the future? It is such a great fit it would be a shame not to. And thanks again giles for the awesome interview!
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 11:04:06 GMT -6
Bottom line. Not enough big (or small) guys buy our stuff. Almost invariably when we do a run of XS-XXXL, we are left with XS, XXL & XXXL when all the other sizes have gone. If we sold out of XXXL quickly every time we introduced something, I'd be mad not to make more XXXL next time around and almost as mad not to say "hey, we're selling all the big stuff, let's see what happens when we introduce something bigger still"... And while we're on this, how much does it add to cost to make more sizes - assuming the patterns are already in existence? So, you have a run of your normal sizes, what costs are added by making some 4XL? Thanks again! The patterns are not in existence, we have to grade new sizes.... It's less about the extra cost of manufacture (and it does cost us more), it's more about what we have sitting around in inventory not shifting. Experience shows me that we often get left with XX and XXXL's. My assumption (maybe incorrect) is that if we made XXXXL and XXXXXL we'd get left with them too. Look, I'm in business to make money as well as have fun, if I was convinced there was a market, what do you think I'd do? |
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 11:06:09 GMT -6
giles, one quick question; 1. The 633S cut (SelfEdge collaboration) is the best fit I have yet to find in a pair of jeans. As of right now there are currently only two fabrics available in this cut. Are there any plans to release this cut in more fabrics in the future? It is such a great fit it would be a shame not to. And thanks again giles for the awesome interview! It's not my position to talk about it. It's Self Edges cut, Self Edges business, it's up to Kiya to talk about it as he see's fit... |
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 11:09:07 GMT -6
giles: aside from IH's denim, is there any other specific denim that has been produced that you've thought was particularly interesting or desirable over the last few years? I like most of PBJ's denim, I liked The Steam Locomotive denim, but but I really don't spend a lot of time looking at what other people do. I simply don't have time and it would make no difference to what we do anyway.... |
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Post by gaseousclay on Jun 8, 2015 11:29:04 GMT -6
giles: what sagely advice would you give to anyone looking to start their own denim brand? What would you consider your biggest failure/success? If there was anything you could change in the denim industry, what would it be?
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Post by Old26 on Jun 8, 2015 11:31:13 GMT -6
And while we're on this, how much does it add to cost to make more sizes - assuming the patterns are already in existence? So, you have a run of your normal sizes, what costs are added by making some 4XL? Thanks again! The patterns are not in existence, we have to grade new sizes.... It's less about the extra cost of manufacture (and it does cost us more), it's more about what we have sitting around in inventory not shifting. Experience shows me that we often get left with XX and XXXL's. My assumption (maybe incorrect) is that if we made XXXXL and XXXXXL we'd get left with them too. Look, I'm in business to make money as well as have fun, if I was convinced there was a market, what do you think I'd do? Thanks giles. I get it - But it's just odd to me that more larger guys don't get into this realm as I know lots of others like me and lots of other companies that make/sell big items. I guess it's the price point that makes big guys cheapskates! I'm not, but maybe I'm unique in the Big and Tall world... |
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Post by ickes on Jun 8, 2015 11:34:25 GMT -6
giles, one quick question; 1. The 633S cut (SelfEdge collaboration) is the best fit I have yet to find in a pair of jeans. As of right now there are currently only two fabrics available in this cut. Are there any plans to release this cut in more fabrics in the future? It is such a great fit it would be a shame not to. And thanks again giles for the awesome interview! It's not my position to talk about it. It's Self Edges cut, Self Edges business, it's up to Kiya to talk about it as he see's fit... Got it. Thanks giles. |
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 11:57:43 GMT -6
giles: what sagely advice would you give to anyone looking to start their own denim brand? What would you consider your biggest failure/success? If there was anything you could change in the denim industry, what would it be? My advice to anyone starting up in any business is that the major determinant as to whether the business will be successful or not is hard work. You have to work hard, then work harder, then work a lot f!@king harder and if you do that and you have a modicum of luck then you may be OK. There is no substitute for working your arse off. I travel a lot and I do go on holidays, but there is never a single day that I don't put at least 4 hours of hard graft in and usually it is 12 plus. I am going on holiday on Wednesday, I got up at 04:00 this morning and it is now 19:00 and I am still in the office and at 57, I am no spring chicken.... Biggest success - Having fun doing something I love. Biggest failure - There's simply nothing I regret, everything I have done/every decision I have made has got me to where I am now. I'd like to have perfect ability to gauge demand, always have enough of every size/colour to 100% satisfy demand and never have any left that I can't ship. Apart from that, I'd change nothing. |
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Post by julian on Jun 8, 2015 12:02:01 GMT -6
giles: aside from IH's denim, is there any other specific denim that has been produced that you've thought was particularly interesting or desirable over the last few years? I like most of PBJ's denim, I liked The Steam Locomotive denim, but but I really don't spend a lot of time looking at what other people do. I simply don't have time and it would make no difference to what we do anyway.... Thanks for the reply, giles. Again, interesting stuff and I'm sure we all appreciate how open and clear you've been - not necessarily something that can be said of many these days. |
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Post by giles on Jun 8, 2015 13:35:27 GMT -6
I've just read my blurb again. I think that the 18oz currency pulp denim will come in at feeling more like 15/16oz, not 14oz. Sorry that was my little bit of Pulp Fiction.....
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Post by Winterland on Jun 8, 2015 15:44:43 GMT -6
I've just read my blurb again. I think that the 18oz currency pulp denim will come in at feeling more like 15/16oz, not 14oz. Sorry that was my little bit of Pulp Fiction..... Thanks again for all the work and time Giles and the Mods put into this. The forum is very grateful to have a representative of Iron Heart here to share their wealth of information. highlights probably has carpal tunnel from transcribing the audio and typing it out for us all to read. The Money jeans sound very unique. I suppose it makes sense that money is made from very strong fibers. If it pans out it will be interesting to see how they wear/fade. A person can say those jeans are money and really mean it.  Just so they don't look like these.  |
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Post by ickes on Jun 8, 2015 15:53:14 GMT -6
Don't know about you guys, but I'm super stoked about the 14.125oz coming in January.
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Post by highlights on Jun 8, 2015 18:55:13 GMT -6
I've just read my blurb again. I think that the 18oz currency pulp denim will come in at feeling more like 15/16oz, not 14oz. Sorry that was my little bit of Pulp Fiction..... Thanks again for all the work and time Giles and the Mods put into this. The forum is very grateful to have a representative of Iron Heart here to share their wealth of information. highlights probably has carpal tunnel from transcribing the audio and typing it out for us all to read. The Money jeans sound very unique. I suppose it makes sense that money is made from very strong fibers. If it pans out it will be interesting to see how they wear/fade. A person can say those jeans are money and really mean it. Just so they don't look like these. Thanks again, Giles!!! IRON HEART never strays from its example of smashing, reliable quality. Winterland, great opportunity for me to work with TOP people...but yeah, indigo tunnel vision, lol. Think the currency pulp weft jeans sound like a very cool innovation. Recycling the quintessential economic unit...IH's development of this thread/yarn speaks heaps for the unique imagination, original creativity & willingness to put in the hard yards to find new & interesting products. The fact that the thread is so durable & results in super dark warp jeans - at IH quality levels - has me really excited. 18oz denim that wears/feels light (-er) is the sweetest, most versatile denim weight for me. If they're anything like I imagine (or even better, lol) then, man, I'll be jumping on a pair next March-April!! |
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Post by brentkuz on Jun 8, 2015 20:49:23 GMT -6
This thread makes me want to buy a pair of 634's badly.
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Post by ickes on Jun 8, 2015 20:58:21 GMT -6
This thread makes me want to buy a pair of 634's badly. If the fit on the 634s is right for you I guarantee you it will be one of the best clothing purchases you will ever make. |
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Post by brentkuz on Jun 9, 2015 7:16:26 GMT -6
I love my 666-XHS but my thighs are tight as heck.
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Post by tarzan on Jun 9, 2015 7:29:57 GMT -6
This thread makes me want to buy a pair of 634's badly. That was a great read, I also found it inspiring too. Thanks and congrats to everyone involved. Before reading this, I knew very little about IH other than it was 3 or 4 times what I usually spend on a pair of jeans. I really like what they are trying to accomplish and absolutely *LOVE* the ethos of IH. Now, once I determine sizing and style (definitely one of the heavyweights), I'm going to make this my next purchase - probably through Rakuten. It will be interesting to see how the company evolves once the old guard retires - I hope they don't sell out and can find someone with as much passion and vision to take over. Really looking forward to introducing my son (10 year old) to selvage once he stops growing and IH seems like the perfect choice. |
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Post by ickes on Jun 9, 2015 10:42:54 GMT -6
I love my 666-XHS but my thighs are tight as heck. that's right, I forgot you had a pair of IH's. Hopefully you can find your fit man, no one does it better than IH. |
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Post by bentin on Jun 9, 2015 11:47:02 GMT -6
Did anyone ask Giles how he washes his stuff?
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