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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 15, 2014 15:55:35 GMT -6
I have a stupid question as a denim uncultivated : i don't understand the cone mills post dyed military. Does the military color in inside the pant or outside? I guess it is inside but i want to be sure... is it like indigoXmilitary or stuff we can see like indigoXpurple or indigoXaqua etc... and if anybody can post a picture or something like that as a real pant... Hi, The jean initially started out natural colored like this Natural colored jean and then was over dyed using a olive drab dye. It has no indigo and will not fade as so but will definitely age. I have a RL pair that looks just like these and I wear them often |
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Post by thomasss on Nov 16, 2014 3:49:25 GMT -6
ok : i understand, so why is there a piece of indigo denim with it ?
It is the same fabric but not the same dye? that's it?
sorry for the silly questions...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2014 7:07:43 GMT -6
ok : i understand, so why is there a piece of indigo denim with it ? It is the same fabric but not the same dye? that's it? sorry for the silly questions... I think the indigo swatch is there as a comparison to a standard indigo. I'm hoping we start getting a comparison shot for each fabric offer, preferably always using the same 'comparison' swatch...but not necessarily as the main photo |
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Post by Derek G on Nov 16, 2014 8:00:47 GMT -6
sorry for the silly questions... My grandpa always told me, the only silly question is the one not asked  |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 16, 2014 9:22:27 GMT -6
ok : i understand, so why is there a piece of indigo denim with it ? It is the same fabric but not the same dye? that's it? sorry for the silly questions... Yes derek is correct. I think the color wasnt showing right so roman took the denim to try to improve how it looked. We took the photo on the move during our trip. One of our 2 do's is to take new photo's while I am in the shop this week. We have this "To DO" web app that allows us to post ideas and things that need to be done as well as assign tasks. Each of us use it daily so this is one of the things on that list |
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Post by Griffin on Nov 16, 2014 14:30:02 GMT -6
I like it and the "okayamas" is a good basic one to use. It was also needed on that fabric since the first pic that shows up looks brown on my calibrated monitor. In the future you might need a little photo booth with a greycard...a little more semipro and its gonna turn out perfect. Remember to calibrate monit that has the final check on the site before posting it. All this is lots of work, but put it on the todo-list  |
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Post by jbcoulier on Nov 17, 2014 2:57:28 GMT -6
Thanks DD, will look forward to this. Laura told me they're out of Kaihara I/I, but they'd do me my Type2 in Candiani I/I... also 14 oz. Have you seen these 2 fabrics and could you give me any feedback on them? I tend to favour Japanese denims, but Laura said that the Candiani is pretty sharp. Would value your comparison, and I'm sure others here would be interested as well.
J
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 17, 2014 9:02:32 GMT -6
Thanks DD, will look forward to this. Laura told me they're out of Kaihara I/I, but they'd do me my Type2 in Candiani I/I... also 14 oz. Have you seen these 2 fabrics and could you give me any feedback on them? I tend to favour Japanese denims, but Laura said that the Candiani is pretty sharp. Would value your comparison, and I'm sure others here would be interested as well. J I haven't handled the Kaihara yet but did see & touch the Candiani. Its def pretty dark and will make for a good jacket. The fabric feels different than denim as we know it. It reminds me of twill as that's the only way to really describe it in my own head. You feel that its 14oz where sometimes I wonder if denims are lighter than they are labeled. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 22, 2014 23:58:05 GMT -6
This is something that SJC said about Kaihara denim that really caught my attention: "All the denim we are using is ring-spun Japanese selvedge. In the main we are using Kaihara 16oz and 12-13oz for women. We think the weight is on the right side of heavy for a lasting pair of jeans. With more than 110 years in business Kaihara know a few things about indigo and rope dying. They have a strong environmental practice, use shuttle looms and where possible American Pima cotton."  It would be really helpful if LD could have this kind of fabric information on the website. I go crazy for anything long staple cotton, especially US grown.  I think the descriptions are pretty similar to this. What else should we add to help paint a better picture for you guys? I can change it from here An all-American classic, this deep indigo is tightly woven for a look and fit that will stand the test of time. Cone Mill Denim is grounded in American heritage and has been producing quality fabrics since 1891. Mill: Cone Mills Color: Indigo Material: Sanforized Selvedge Denim Weight: 15.2 oz. Selvedge: Red Composition: 100% cotton Origin: USA Mill: Candiani Mills Color: N-Gine (Blue/Grey) Material: Herringbone, brown Weft Sanforized Raw Selvedge Weight: 12 oz. Selvedge: Red Composition: 100% Cotton Origin: Italy Candiani Denim, MADE IN ITALY SINCE 1938 With over 75 years of experience, Candiani uses vintage X-3 Draper Looms and innovative technology to produce some of the world’s finest denim while developing new techniques to create more sustainable ways of processing denim. Mill: Nihon Menpu Color: Indigo Material: Sanforized raw slub selvedge denim Weight: 15 oz. Selvedge: Pink Composition: 100% cotton Origin: Japan Nihon Menpu, MADE IN JAPAN SINCE 1917 Using 1920s Toyoda G10 Shuttle looms and traditional indigo dyeing vat methods, Nihon Menpu embraces Japan’s industrial heritage to create premium selvedge denim. |
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Post by jray on Nov 23, 2014 9:45:02 GMT -6
DD or Roman - do you have an eta on a melton wool pea coat like the one IH manufactures?
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 23, 2014 11:45:40 GMT -6
DD or Roman - do you have an eta on a melton wool pea coat like the one IH manufactures? We are in the beginning stages with this and by beginning I mean gathering details for sampling. We currently have a lot of great ideas for shirts, jackets & coats. |
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Post by jray on Nov 23, 2014 11:49:55 GMT -6
Thanks DD - so likely nothing that will be ordered, produced and shipped so I can wear it this winter....
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 23, 2014 13:37:34 GMT -6
Thanks DD - so likely nothing that will be ordered, produced and shipped so I can wear it this winter.... I would think not. Coats, blazers or anything with lining take a bit longer. Our main obstacle at this point is turning 6 to 8 week waits into under 1 month. Roman & I discuss this a lot and have to add more skilled sewers. Unfortunately we give new sewers a trial run and most dont make the cut. This is the toughest part in that we look for a highly skilled sewers who can hit the ground running. Once we add even 5 more skilled sewers, the 6 to 8 week wait will drop to 4 to 6. |
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Post by bigblack on Nov 23, 2014 16:29:05 GMT -6
roman, have you zeroed in on a black x black fabric yet? I want a shirt similar to IH's Jonny Cash super black western.
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Post by roman on Nov 23, 2014 16:31:47 GMT -6
Bigblack not at this time. It's on the list but haven't found it yet.
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 23, 2014 17:18:23 GMT -6
roman, have you zeroed in on a black x black fabric yet? I want a shirt similar to IH's Jonny Cash super black western. We had a black black on our last fabric run. Its a fabric we want so it will come soon |
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Post by roman on Nov 23, 2014 17:39:12 GMT -6
Thanx DD! I forget what we buy some times.
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Post by davelewis on Nov 23, 2014 18:07:35 GMT -6
Thanks DD - so likely nothing that will be ordered, produced and shipped so I can wear it this winter.... I would think not. Coats, blazers or anything with lining take a bit longer. Our main obstacle at this point is turning 6 to 8 week waits into under 1 month. Roman & I discuss this a lot and have to add more skilled sewers. Unfortunately we give new sewers a trial run and most dont make the cut. This is the toughest part in that we look for a highly skilled sewers who can hit the ground running. Once we add even 5 more skilled sewers, the 6 to 8 week wait will drop to 4 to 6. Like your emphasis on "skilled" sewers. We've seen some stuff from others where it is apparent that the one making it is not quite skilled enough. A shirt, or pants, are only as good as the person sewing it up, assuming the pattern is correct. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 23, 2014 18:20:26 GMT -6
I would think not. Coats, blazers or anything with lining take a bit longer. Our main obstacle at this point is turning 6 to 8 week waits into under 1 month. Roman & I discuss this a lot and have to add more skilled sewers. Unfortunately we give new sewers a trial run and most dont make the cut. This is the toughest part in that we look for a highly skilled sewers who can hit the ground running. Once we add even 5 more skilled sewers, the 6 to 8 week wait will drop to 4 to 6. Like your emphasis on "skilled" sewers. We've seen some stuff from others where it is apparent that the one making it is not quite skilled enough. A shirt, or pants, are only as good as the person sewing it up, assuming the pattern is correct. Some may be good sewers but have never dealt with a denim let alone something that is 17oz or more. I mean if we had access to 100 good sewers we would be sending you guys your orders in less than 3 days (thats the truth) |
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Post by gusjin on Nov 25, 2014 2:18:31 GMT -6
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Nov 25, 2014 8:45:13 GMT -6
We did not pick it up because it was way to stiff. It would have been goog for bags |
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Post by gusjin on Nov 25, 2014 8:52:23 GMT -6
We did not pick it up because it was way to stiff. It would have been goog for bags Anything else? Was hoping to place an order during the sale |
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Post by jjflash on Nov 26, 2014 10:00:15 GMT -6
So the heavyweight Pendleton wools are no more? I have only myself to blame for not pulling the trigger sooner I guess.
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Post by bugula on Nov 26, 2014 10:17:22 GMT -6
So the heavyweight Pendleton wools are no more? I have only myself to blame for not pulling the trigger sooner I guess. yeah, was a bit bummed to see those guys weren't available too. they were the first fabrics i looked for when i ordered this morning. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Dec 3, 2014 12:49:47 GMT -6
Here is a couple LD & PBM 12-15oz selvedge fabrics we are working on. We can pretty much tweak these to different colors but this is what we had made to show what can be done and its endless   |
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