small
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Post by small on May 25, 2015 15:32:22 GMT -6
Hey all first post to this forum looked it over for a while before I bought my first pair of Gustin's I got my first pair "Heavy Americans" #27 back in December. I thought I'd found that the selvedge route was the way to go. I'd been a Levis guy all my life but after too many crotch blowouts on almost new pairs I started the research and found selvedge.
I read on how people care or don't care for their jeans, wash, don't wash, soak, don't soak etc. etc. I didn't realize there was so much with denim.
These Gustin's weren't too much more then I'd been spending on Levis so I took a shot. I wore them often before their first wash. I soak/washed them in cool water in the tub and hung dry. Not too much shrinkage. Well the weather has gotten nice and I started to wear these while riding my motorcycle. Well even though I went with "straight" cut they are very tight in the thighs. I'm no Mr Universe but I've got okay thighs from stairs/squats/biking. These seem tight. NO worries I figure I'd wear them damp and let them stretch. No different but when I took them off I looked like papa smurf! Very uncomfortable while riding the motorcycle, these might not be my new riding jeans.
Today I noticed the stitching near the crotch just below the zipper (double like rail road tracks) the outer stitching is coming loose! While it isn't "bad yet" I'm disappointed. I have another pair that I've bought because it seemed like a good deal at the time (#191 Blue 17's) those too have tight thighs (for me).
Any idea if Gustin will make relaxed fit? Anyone else experience poor stitches? I'm planning to reach out to Gustin and let them know what's happened. I'm not sure what they would or even could do for me. But I think they should know, their response may help me determine if I buy more in the future.
Anyway I figured I'd tell my story.
Oh and I'm just started to get "whiskers" and other fade spots in the knees and pockets. I figure they jumped the gun on that instgram contest thing, although I admit I don't follow them there so I don;t know what others have gotten.
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Post by brentkuz on May 25, 2015 19:02:56 GMT -6
I wouldn't call any of those things defects nor QC issues. Fit wise not sure what your waist is or thigh size is but you May need to size up. Unless they were off spec and were too small from the factory. I wear mine on my bike with no issues but of course that's more a fit issue. As for turning blue post soak it's normal and that is basically the standard don't worry about it. You will see some shrinkage when you wash raw denim for the first time, it's part of your personalization. Stitching coming loose is also just normal wear and tear. Granted I wasn't with you everyday and watched your daily acfivities. Cycling or riding a motorcycle puts stress on crotches, ask ickes I've blown a ton of crotches. After riding, washing, daily wear it's hard to fault Gustin depending on how much you wear etc. Don't get me wrong I hate seeing premature wear but some people really wear there jeans hard.
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small
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Post by small on May 26, 2015 8:19:35 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply Brentkuz.
I did upsize because I understood they would shrink after washing. Which they didn't seem to do too much. If you think stitching coming loose is normal wear and tear I'd have to wonder about that, this isn't my first pair of jeans, stitching coming loose is not normal and shouldn't be accepted. While the material of Levis isn't what it once was IMO the stitching didn't "just come loose". Riding is hard, but the jeans should survive more then a few hours of riding. Again maybe this is all fit/size issue. They feel fine while standing and sitting around the house, although a bit tight in the thigh. IRRC there were post here and there that discussed QC issues with the factory sewing these jeans??
These were hand washed twice in cool water using the Dr. B soap. They weren't "abused" before they got their first/second washes. If I had three hours seat time before I noticed this stitching issue I'd be surprised. Heck if it was abuse more likely then not I wouldn't even have posted on a forum. I'm not a denim collector like many seem to be who buy Raw Selvedge or these boutique brands. I just hoped to get a durable pair of jeans.
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2015 9:30:10 GMT -6
smallIf you are willing swing the cost of ironheart they may suit your needs. The 25oz pair I have are built like a tank. The stitching is probably twice as heavy and the 634 is a fuller cut. Check rakuten for the best price. IMHO gustins build is ok but nothing special. Their main appeal is made in U.S. and the variety of fabric.
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Post by exophobe on May 26, 2015 9:32:04 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply Brentkuz. I did upsize because I understood they would shrink after washing. Which they didn't seem to do too much. If you think stitching coming loose is normal wear and tear I'd have to wonder about that, this isn't my first pair of jeans, stitching coming loose is not normal and shouldn't be accepted. While the material of Levis isn't what it once was IMO the stitching didn't "just come loose". Riding is hard, but the jeans should survive more then a few hours of riding. Again maybe this is all fit/size issue. They feel fine while standing and sitting around the house, although a bit tight in the thigh. IRRC there were post here and there that discussed QC issues with the factory sewing these jeans?? These were hand washed twice in cool water using the Dr. B soap. They weren't "abused" before they got their first/second washes. If I had three hours seat time before I noticed this stitching issue I'd be surprised. Heck if it was abuse more likely then not I wouldn't even have posted on a forum. I'm not a denim collector like many seem to be who buy Raw Selvedge or these boutique brands. I just hoped to get a durable pair of jeans. I haven't experienced stitching coming loose on any of my pairs, but that doesn't mean it's not possible. I'd consider it normal wear and tear if you normally wear chain mail gloves and scratch yourself, though interacting with your jeans using chain mail gloves could be considered abusive. Gustin's issues with QC have been focused more on sizing issues than anything else (as far as jeans) though there are many cases of loose rivets and sometimes spinning buttons on the fly. These are both fairly simple fixes, but not something you typically find with Levi's. Call me a snob, but I can't handle the fabric they use after going to raw gustins, and the 501 fit is pretty awful for me, and the 511 way too slim. I could look into their other fits, but as long as I don't get too fat, I have jeans to last me the rest of my life.
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Post by julian on May 26, 2015 10:09:01 GMT -6
These were hand washed twice in cool water using the Dr. B soap. They weren't "abused" before they got their first/second washes. If I had three hours seat time before I noticed this stitching issue I'd be surprised. There's no way the stitching should be coming loose after a total of less than half a day's wear, almost regardless of what you were actually doing while wearing them (landmine clearing being a possible exception). The HAs should be a durable jean... decent weight and a fairly tight weave denim. Unless the stitching was badly snagged in some way, which you'd obviously have noticed, then this does seem like an issue with either the stitching or the cotton they've used. Either way, no pair of jeans should only last 3 hours.
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Post by davelewis on May 26, 2015 10:11:49 GMT -6
If I were to wear a pair that I considered "very uncomfortable" in the thighs, I would be thinking about when I'd start blowing out a seam somewhere. It sounds like the fit is simply too small for you. Sounds like you might be better off either having the stitching reinforced, or selling them and getting a better fitting pair.
My 26oz pair, are my snuggest pair of the 33 straights I own, and I wear them a lot while motorcycle riding, with no issues, but I wouldn't consider them uncomfortable in the first place.
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Post by Winterland on May 26, 2015 11:07:02 GMT -6
These were hand washed twice in cool water using the Dr. B soap. They weren't "abused" before they got their first/second washes. If I had three hours seat time before I noticed this stitching issue I'd be surprised. There's no way the stitching should be coming loose after a total of less than half a day's wear, almost regardless of what you were actually doing while wearing them (landmine clearing being a possible exception). The HAs should be a durable jean... decent weight and a fairly tight weave denim. Unless the stitching was badly snagged in some way, which you'd obviously have noticed, then this does seem like an issue with either the stitching or the cotton they've used. Either way, no pair of jeans should only last 3 hours. You probably should of got a hold of Gustin right away. They would have taken care of getting you a new pair or an exchange etc. At this point maybe they would pay to have someone do some reinforcements to the area. As others mentioned sounds like you should size up.
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small
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Post by small on May 26, 2015 11:51:20 GMT -6
Thanks guys. The too small thing? Again the waste 35 fits fine maybe loose and I'd hoped it would have shrunk more but didn't. They felt tight to begin with in the thigh but I thought that was "New Jeans with plenty of starch". They got to feel better walking around while I "broke" them in some then after each wash. Although putting them on after hang drying was a shocker, they could stand on their own. The fact that I'd been wearing Levis most of my life and never had Raw before or something as heavy as 16.25oz fabric I wasn't certain how they'd feel. Maybe I should have sent them back for a larger but I "need" a belt to keep these from falling as it is.
61 Scout thanks for the suggestion about the ironheart. The price is too far out for me and I see a 21oz Hell 17 oz on my other Gustins is heavy I can't imagine something in the 20's. I think that for the price it seems Gustins can be a great value and I would be willing to keep buying heavier and heavier to see what they're like but something like this could easily stop me from buying anymore. When I looked at those Iron-Heart that was the place to buy some had them listed over $400! Ouch... I'll keep an out out over at eBay though.
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Post by exophobe on May 26, 2015 12:00:04 GMT -6
Thanks guys. The too small thing? Again the waste 35 fits fine maybe loose and I'd hoped it would have shrunk more but didn't. They felt tight to begin with in the thigh but I thought that was "New Jeans with plenty of starch". They got to feel better walking around while I "broke" them in some then after each wash. Although putting them on after hang drying was a shocker, they could stand on their own. The fact that I'd been wearing Levis most of my life and never had Raw before or something as heavy as 16.25oz fabric I wasn't certain how they'd feel. Maybe I should have sent them back for a larger but I "need" a belt to keep these from falling as it is. 61 Scout thanks for the suggestion about the ironheart. The price is too far out for me and I see a 21oz Hell 17 oz on my other Gustins is heavy I can't imagine something in the 20's. I think that for the price it seems Gustins can be a great value and I would be willing to keep buying heavier and heavier to see what they're like but something like this could easily stop me from buying anymore. When I looked at those Iron-Heart that was the place to buy some had them listed over $400! Ouch... I'll keep an out out over at eBay though. @belopsky is the only person I've seen talk about not fitting the thighs on a pair of jeans, maybe he can help you out with some guidance, as he's very similarly value-minded. From the sound of it, though, you should be looking at working with Ciano Farmer, as they can do adjustments to their fit to make it work better for you, and provide a huge value.
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Post by Winterland on May 26, 2015 12:40:23 GMT -6
Thanks guys. The too small thing? Again the waste 35 fits fine maybe loose and I'd hoped it would have shrunk more but didn't. They felt tight to begin with in the thigh but I thought that was "New Jeans with plenty of starch". They got to feel better walking around while I "broke" them in some then after each wash. Although putting them on after hang drying was a shocker, they could stand on their own. The fact that I'd been wearing Levis most of my life and never had Raw before or something as heavy as 16.25oz fabric I wasn't certain how they'd feel. Maybe I should have sent them back for a larger but I "need" a belt to keep these from falling as it is. 61 Scout thanks for the suggestion about the ironheart. The price is too far out for me and I see a 21oz Hell 17 oz on my other Gustins is heavy I can't imagine something in the 20's. I think that for the price it seems Gustins can be a great value and I would be willing to keep buying heavier and heavier to see what they're like but something like this could easily stop me from buying anymore. When I looked at those Iron-Heart that was the place to buy some had them listed over $400! Ouch... I'll keep an out out over at eBay though. Yes you don't want to go bigger waist if they're already Loose. One thing maybe nobody asked did you order straight size from Gustin or slim? I'll assume straight. You should also check the measurements to make sure they came in correct. Maybe you got slim by accident. You should check the thigh measurements of a pair of jeans you like the fit of and base your future orders from that.
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Post by bugula on May 26, 2015 13:21:43 GMT -6
definitely go with the thigh measurements for your next buy. the Gs you got did not fit you even if the waist was loose. you need something with more of a relaxed fit/looser top box than you received. i have to go up a waist size on many of my jeans to get them to fit my thighs...i think that's a more important measurement than the waist if you're athletic.
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Post by metals37 on May 26, 2015 13:55:02 GMT -6
definitely go with the thigh measurements for your next buy. the Gs you got did not fit you even if the waist was loose. you need something with more of a relaxed fit/looser top box than you received. i have to go up a waist size on many of my jeans to get them to fit my thighs...i think that's a more important measurement than the waist if you're athletic. When sizing my pants (jeans or chinos) I start with the thighs (looser on chinos, tighter on jeans) and figure out the rest from there. Waists can shrink or stretch but thighs usually don't move much.
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Post by Deleted on May 26, 2015 15:52:44 GMT -6
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Post by brentkuz on May 26, 2015 19:33:32 GMT -6
Washing, wearing (especially on a motorcycle), coupled with a tight fit will put stress on any seam. The QC issues at the factory were sizing related. Did you measure your jeans pre-wash when you first got them? That would be the only way to tell if they sewed them too small.
It's hard to fault Gustin after washing twice and wearing. It sucks no doubt about it but it happens with all clothing. Say a button popping off a shirt, jean rivet busting loose, jackets zippers not going smoothly.
If the day you received the jeans the stitching coming loose would def be all on Gustin. But after wear and tear it's hard to fault them.
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Post by julian on May 27, 2015 3:17:47 GMT -6
But after wear and tear it's hard to fault them. 3 hours?! For it to be a sizing issue, the jeans would have had to have been such a tight fit on the thighs they were barely wearable. I have a pair of very slim Sugar Canes in a 31W (I wear 33W in Gustin) that are the tightest jeans I own in terms of thigh sizing and I've worn the hell out of them in various scenarios, we're talking months' worth of wear... the stitching remains perfect.
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Post by brentkuz on May 27, 2015 4:06:56 GMT -6
But after wear and tear it's hard to fault them. 3 hours?! For it to be a sizing issue, the jeans would have had to have been such a tight fit on the thighs they were barely wearable. I have a pair of very slim Sugar Canes in a 31W (I wear 33W in Gustin) that are the tightest jeans I own in terms of thigh sizing and I've worn the hell out of them in various scenarios, we're talking months' worth of wear... the stitching remains perfect. Maybe I misread what he said but I saw. I few hours riding, two washes. My thighs are 26.25-.5 and I couldn't wear full counts. I'm just saying during a wash or wear random stuff can happen. A few hours into wearing my super lights I snagged my belt loop on something and a stitch came loose. I noticed it but how many times a day do you snag something and not really notice? Who knows. But it's possilbe. This guy may have found a week link no doubt after washing and wearing there is no doubt but at this point I think it's difficult to call it a QC issue when there is plenty of opertunity that it could have been wear and tear.
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Post by julian on May 27, 2015 4:35:42 GMT -6
This guy may have found a week link no doubt after washing and wearing there is no doubt but at this point I think it's difficult to call it a QC issue when there is plenty of opertunity that it could have been wear and tear. Totally agree - it's impossible for us to call from here. However, I thought it was a total of around 3 hours' wear and maybe 2 soaks? For what it's worth, a friend I steered towards Gustin had a belt loop pop off the first time he wore one pair and the same guy had stitching come loose from around a front pocket lip after about 4 wears (on a different pair of Gustins). My pairs have all been fine, wonky stitching aside, but I guess there will be some issues with the integrity of the stitching now and again. If it were me, I'd definitely contact Gustin and explain the situation and see what they come up with - and at the same time remeasure the necessary thigh dimensions and make sure that's what I order next time. Waistbands are a fairly easy tailoring job if it's just losing an inch or two, so that may be another option.
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small
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Post by small on May 27, 2015 11:51:04 GMT -6
Ok the label says regular and I did not measure the thighs before they were hand washed/soaked in cool water using Dr. B.. Peppermint soap twice.
I would have noticed if I had snag something on this parts of the jeans I'm kind of sensitive to that area.
While walking or sitting these are not uncomfortable, its the seated position on the motorcycle, or squating, that I notice how tight the are. That being the case depending on the response from Gustin I may just repair these myself and retire them from motorcycle riding, tree climbing (for trimming), yard work, and anything else that would put strain in this area.
I'll snap some pictures when I get the opportunity. I eyeballed them last night but it was late. I didn't compare them to my other Gustin's but I wonder... The "railraod" stitching on the front seam is noticeable lighter/thinner then on the backside of the jeans?
Again I will snap some photos and you'll get to see. I'm not trying to bash Gustin I like the idea of crowd source the variety of materials etc. I just figured I see if others had similar issues and it seems some have. I know I've had buttons pop on newer Levis so I know damage does happen from time to time this just seemed out of the ordinary.
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small
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Post by small on May 27, 2015 18:30:59 GMT -6
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Post by exophobe on May 27, 2015 18:46:01 GMT -6
small I'd send a couple of those pictures to Gustin, they'll probably give you the option to have them repaired locally and foot the bill, or at least bounce you a credit. Or tell you tough luck, but that would be out of character for them lately.
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 11, 2015 14:49:30 GMT -6
Welp, just got my first pair of Gustin jeans and right out of the bag the top button is broken. What is to be done at this point? Email them? I don't see anything regarding returns.
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Post by exophobe on Jun 11, 2015 14:53:17 GMT -6
Welp, just got my first pair of Gustin jeans and right out of the bag the top button is broken. What is to be done at this point? Email them? I don't see anything regarding returns. Contact them by email, it's been really fast (~18 hours or less) lately. They;ll likely offer a couple things, return, send you a new shank button, or (maybe) offer to reimburse you for a repair. It seems that they're having some issues with the shank button machine lately (unless you're the same guy as the guy over at styleforum).
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 11, 2015 14:57:05 GMT -6
Welp, just got my first pair of Gustin jeans and right out of the bag the top button is broken. What is to be done at this point? Email them? I don't see anything regarding returns. Contact them by email, it's been really fast (~18 hours or less) lately. They;ll likely offer a couple things, return, send you a new shank button, or (maybe) offer to reimburse you for a repair. It seems that they're having some issues with the shank button machine lately (unless you're the same guy as the guy over at styleforum). Ha ha. Nope. I am not. I wouldn't know how to put on a button, and I don't want to get a new pair of jeans repaired, and I don't want to PAY to ship these back. Ha ha. We'll see what they say.
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Post by Old26 on Jun 11, 2015 14:58:05 GMT -6
I think they took the buttery soft thing too far if they're using it for buttons now. Sorry to see that. I've been really happy with my G jeans, but they'll make it good. Email them...
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