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Post by felizuno on Mar 24, 2015 18:41:06 GMT -6
I'm super interested in something 18+ loomstate or 21+ oz in general, and if I buy anything it will surely be IH, but not really sure going in on them now is worth putting the current favs on hold. I have two pairs of Gustin Z18s (straights and slims) and my straights just turned 40 today. They're fading great, I'm loving them and excited to put in work on the slims. I have G loomies with pretty much the best fit I can imagine.
Guys who have the jeans I mentioned, do you miss them now that you've got IH? In your opinions should I really put these 3 on hold and wear IH instead?
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 18:57:53 GMT -6
Damn, please don't make me buy any IH t-shirts. Fits look great guys. But seriously, $80 for a t-shirt? I wore the red and black one last night... I'm waiting to wash it before I tell anyone that they are absolutely, totally worth the loot. If it doesn't shrink much, then I absolutely recommend them to anyone, and will surely buy more shirts for the summer |
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Post by jbreitenbucher on Mar 24, 2015 19:03:27 GMT -6
EXACTLY! ^^^^^ Thanks for the pics DirtyDenim. Personally I don't think I will ever be able to take the IH plunge. I absolutely cannot be convinced that their products are actually worth the prices they are charging for it. The mark ups seem to be completely absurd. Keep in mind I have never seen an IH product in person, but this is just my two cents So I've been following this thread off and on from its start and am considering stepping up from Gustin, Naked and Famous, and Lawless, but like ickes was initially, I have a hard time justifying the price. I think I've narrowed down to PBJ or IH, but am still struggling with justifying the price. So why would one step up to something like IH or PBJ? |
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Post by ickes on Mar 24, 2015 19:04:37 GMT -6
I'm super interested in something 18+ loomstate or 21+ oz in general, and if I buy anything it will surely be IH, but not really sure going in on them now is worth putting the current favs on hold. I have two pairs of Gustin Z18s (straights and slims) and my straights just turned 40 today. They're fading great, I'm loving them and excited to put in work on the slims. I have G loomies with pretty much the best fit I can imagine. Guys who have the jeans I mentioned, do you miss them now that you've got IH? In your opinions should I really put these 3 on hold and wear IH instead? 1. No 2. Yes |
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Post by Deleted on Mar 24, 2015 19:17:40 GMT -6
EXACTLY! ^^^^^ Thanks for the pics DirtyDenim. Personally I don't think I will ever be able to take the IH plunge. I absolutely cannot be convinced that their products are actually worth the prices they are charging for it. The mark ups seem to be completely absurd. Keep in mind I have never seen an IH product in person, but this is just my two cents So I've been following this thread off and on from its start and am considering stepping up from Gustin, Naked and Famous, and Lawless, but like ickes was initially, I have a hard time justifying the price. I think I've narrowed down to PBJ or IH, but am still struggling with justifying the price. So why would one step up to something like IH or PBJ? Really, it's one of those things that you have to see and feel to understand, just like when you initially went in to Gustin, N&F, etc... For PBJ, seeing and feeling a pair will be enough to sell you on buying. All about the fabrics. I would say to order a pair from BiG just to get them in hand and see what I mean, then just send them back and get your refund. If you like them, order a pair from Rakuten or another Japanese site. If you don't like them, no harm/no foul. For IH..... This is Level 999 of denim/workwear fandom... Read this post, and check out the IH forums. Everything you could want to possibly know is entailed there. |
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Post by ickes on Mar 24, 2015 20:10:53 GMT -6
I'm super interested in something 18+ loomstate or 21+ oz in general, and if I buy anything it will surely be IH, but not really sure going in on them now is worth putting the current favs on hold. I have two pairs of Gustin Z18s (straights and slims) and my straights just turned 40 today. They're fading great, I'm loving them and excited to put in work on the slims. I have G loomies with pretty much the best fit I can imagine. Guys who have the jeans I mentioned, do you miss them now that you've got IH? In your opinions should I really put these 3 on hold and wear IH instead? Thought I should elaborate on this a little more; ....so now that I have my Iron Hearts I look at my Indigo Gustins a bit differently to be honest. I still appreciate them for what they are and in the grand scheme of things they are still nice jeans that I will still wear from time to time. However, my favorite pairs such as my Zimbs, Loomstates, and Okayamas just seem a little less spectacular and more normal I guess is the word. The Gustin fabric seems to have a cheaper feel than the Iron Hearts and I'm not really sure why, I wish I could explain it better.
Like Untucked said it is something that is difficult to explain until you actually have the fabric in hand and can experience it. When I first opened my Iron Hearts I wasn't completely blown away by them in all honesty. Then I soaked them and started wearing them and I just seem to appreciate them more and more each day. If the weather permitted I honestly could just wear my Iron Hearts for the next couple years or so and put the rest of my jeans to the side. Realistically though it is starting to warm up in Phoenix and I won't be wearing my Iron Hearts for a whole lot longer, I will go to something lighter.
I don't know if this answers any of your questions but I hope it helps.
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Post by ickes on Mar 24, 2015 20:17:29 GMT -6
EXACTLY! ^^^^^ Thanks for the pics DirtyDenim. Personally I don't think I will ever be able to take the IH plunge. I absolutely cannot be convinced that their products are actually worth the prices they are charging for it. The mark ups seem to be completely absurd. Keep in mind I have never seen an IH product in person, but this is just my two cents So I've been following this thread off and on from its start and am considering stepping up from Gustin, Naked and Famous, and Lawless, but like ickes was initially, I have a hard time justifying the price. I think I've narrowed down to PBJ or IH, but am still struggling with justifying the price. So why would one step up to something like IH or PBJ? jbreitenbucher I hope my previous post helps you a bit as well.
I should also point out though guys that if you don't appreciate heavier denim (18oz +) then there is probably no point in exploring Iron Heart.
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Post by jbreitenbucher on Mar 24, 2015 20:30:30 GMT -6
ickes @untucked this at least lets me know that I probably want PBJ, if I do anything. IH seems to just be straight heavier denim and PBJ has some interesting fabrics and lighter weights. Something like the PBJ Indigo x Cobalt. Now I just need to find some in my size while the exchange rate is good.
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Post by wdw on Mar 24, 2015 20:41:25 GMT -6
untucked, ickes, I'm just curious...
I have quite a few jeans from G, mostly coloured, with the HAs and Loomstates now being the only indigo ones I wear.
Having now moved into IH, with a shirt and vest and one more of each incoming, I can definitely see the quality and will buy more, but I'm unsure about IH jeans.
I hear what you say about them simply being better quality and feeling nicer, but if I was to buy one pair, should it be 21oz or 25oz? I'm looking at the 634S and 634XHS. I guess you'll say I'll inevitably end up with both.
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Post by ickes on Mar 24, 2015 21:26:19 GMT -6
untucked, ickes, I'm just curious... I have quite a few jeans from G, mostly coloured, with the HAs and Loomstates now being the only indigo ones I wear. Having now moved into IH, with a shirt and vest and one more of each incoming, I can definitely see the quality and will buy more, but I'm unsure about IH jeans. I hear what you say about them simply being better quality and feeling nicer, but if I was to buy one pair, should it be 21oz or 25oz? I'm looking at the 634S and 634XHS. I guess you'll say I'll inevitably end up with both. So you'll probably tell me to shut the hell up already and that they are too expensive, but the pair I would recommend are the SEXIH22 633S 20 Oz. IndigoXGrey Left Hand Twill Loomstates  .
Ok, now that I've got that out of my system again, I would honestly go for the 21 oz pair. I don't know that I'll ever go over the 21-23 oz range again so IMO the 25oz is too much, but that's just me. I have also read a lot about the 21 oz fabric and everyone really loves that fabric and talks about how great it is. The 21 oz fabric is one of the pairs that I want to get next (along with the 19oz Left Hand Twill) but I'm just not sure what fit. They have it in the 633S fit on SelfEdge but as we all know it's hella expensive.
So to answer your question, I would say the 21 oz.
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Post by marauder on Mar 24, 2015 22:25:24 GMT -6
untucked, ickes, I'm just curious... I have quite a few jeans from G, mostly coloured, with the HAs and Loomstates now being the only indigo ones I wear. Having now moved into IH, with a shirt and vest and one more of each incoming, I can definitely see the quality and will buy more, but I'm unsure about IH jeans. I hear what you say about them simply being better quality and feeling nicer, but if I was to buy one pair, should it be 21oz or 25oz? I'm looking at the 634S and 634XHS. I guess you'll say I'll inevitably end up with both. So you'll probably tell me to shut the hell up already and that they are too expensive, but the pair I would recommend are the SEXIH22 633S 20 Oz. IndigoXGrey Left Hand Twill Loomstates .
Ok, now that I've got that out of my system again, I would honestly go for the 21 oz pair. I don't know that I'll ever go over the 21-23 oz range again so IMO the 25oz is too much, but that's just me. I have also read a lot about the 21 oz fabric and everyone really loves that fabric and talks about how great it is. The 21 oz fabric is one of the pairs that I want to get next (along with the 19oz Left Hand Twill) but I'm just not sure what fit. They have it in the 633S fit on SelfEdge but as we all know it's hella expensive.
So to answer your question, I would say the 21 oz.
+1 on 21/23 oz loomstate IH. The fabric is great and it gets better after the first soak. I have this one in 634 fit and although its not tapered, I like it a lot. It's getting close to -5C (23F) here and they are becoming too warm for me. I already have the lighter 12-14oz demin out. |
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Post by julian on Mar 25, 2015 4:12:43 GMT -6
I have quite a few jeans from G, mostly coloured, with the HAs and Loomstates now being the only indigo ones I wear. Having now moved into IH, with a shirt and vest and one more of each incoming, I can definitely see the quality and will buy more, but I'm unsure about IH jeans. I hear what you say about them simply being better quality and feeling nicer, but if I was to buy one pair, should it be 21oz or 25oz? I'm looking at the 634S and 634XHS. I guess you'll say I'll inevitably end up with both. It's the same as with anything else... you have 'good' and then you have 'great'. Good is fine, until you have the great option available. I like my Gustin jeans and - even despite the sizing issues - have no regrets at all in buying them. However, that's mainly due to my general interest in jeans and collecting them. In terms of what I actually choose to wear, I can't honestly remember the last time I wore my HAs and the last time I wore my Okas outside the house was late last year. Gustin make good jeans. Iron Heart make great jeans. |
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 25, 2015 7:03:32 GMT -6
I love all my Gustin jeans that I still have. 15oz zimbs are my daily pair since September.
I also love my Iron Heart 666 25oz which I just got in. About 10hrs in them and the loosened up and feel pretty darn good. The fabric different than what Gustin did with the 23/26. It seems more thought out.
Iron heart uses French seams like they did in the old days.
Iron hearts button holes and buttons are much better for heavy denim. The Gustin holes fell apart on the 26oz and the buttons were so thick it made it even harder to button.
The stitching is a different color. It's more yellow and IIRC it's a poly blend for more strength. Gustin was more orange/topaz.
Fit. This is always a personal thing depending on your body. I like the fit better on the 666 25oz. No saggy crotch that runs like my Gustins do. They really fit better leading to no rub in the crotch like basically all my Gustin do.
634 will be a looser fit below the knee than most of Gustins. Go by the IHUK fit guide I find it the most accurate. Especially with shirts. Self edge seemed off with shirts the most.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 25, 2015 7:05:57 GMT -6
untucked, ickes, I'm just curious... I have quite a few jeans from G, mostly coloured, with the HAs and Loomstates now being the only indigo ones I wear. Having now moved into IH, with a shirt and vest and one more of each incoming, I can definitely see the quality and will buy more, but I'm unsure about IH jeans. I hear what you say about them simply being better quality and feeling nicer, but if I was to buy one pair, should it be 21oz or 25oz? I'm looking at the 634S and 634XHS. I guess you'll say I'll inevitably end up with both. If you want the best indigo jeans. That are a true Reproduction of the old Levis get a Japanese repro brand. You won't be disappointed. The loomstate samurai jeans have the best hand feel and different fade properties than G. The IH 25oz is amazing. Not the most forgiving jeans but they are crafted better than the Gustin 23/26. As was said in the rawr denim article. IH makes new jeans like they were back in the early 1900's to mid 1900's. |
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 25, 2015 8:12:07 GMT -6
Oh and completely forgot!
Gustin's rivets suck!
Iron Heart and other Japanese brands use awesome rivets! I've had countless Gustin rivets pop and they look like Harbor Freight cheapo rivets.
The Japanese brands use sturdy rivets I wouldn't be worried about falling off!
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Post by DigDug on Mar 25, 2015 8:28:21 GMT -6
brentkuz how's the fit on the 666's compared to Gustns slim and strait?
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 25, 2015 9:07:13 GMT -6
brentkuz how's the fit on the 666's compared to Gustns slim and strait? I only have the 25oz 666 fit 36w Vs say Gustin 37slim super heavy 18oz The 666 fit 13.5" thigh measured different than G so it fits more like a 13" which would be close to a 36slim G Knees to cuff is wider. Which I like. It's more like a slim straight unlike G is quite slim. Waist is about the same. Of course 25oz fabric is heavy it stretched out quick. Moral of the story it's a similar top block but I find the rise and fit in the crotch better on the 666. Below the knee more of a straight on the 666 but still trimmed down vs a normal straight fit. With heavy fabrics for gustin I need to size up to a size 37 slim where iron heart I am a 36. |
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Post by ickes on Mar 25, 2015 9:10:25 GMT -6
Oh and completely forgot! Gustin's rivets suck! Iron Heart and other Japanese brands use awesome rivets! I've had countless Gustin rivets pop and they look like Harbor Freight cheapo rivets. The Japanese brands use sturdy rivets I wouldn't be worried about falling off! Completely agree with all of the details brentkuz mentioned regarding Iron Hearts. Also, don't forget the pocket bags on the Iron Hearts. Definitely high quality, nice and thick yet somewhat soft and comfortable. Plus they line the bock pockets too which is something I never thought that I would have cared about but it is definitely a nice touch. Every time I stick my hands in my bock pockets it's like...ahhh...that's right I have comfy back pocket linings. |
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 25, 2015 9:18:13 GMT -6
They have better pocket bags.
Hidden rivets on the rear pockets.
No rear lined pockets for the 666-XHS. Unless I'm going crazy.
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Post by julian on Mar 25, 2015 9:22:53 GMT -6
brentkuz how's the fit on the 666's compared to Gustns slim and strait? The 666 is cut much more form fitting from the just below the knee up through to the waistband. From the bottom of the knee area down they are essentially straight and slightly wider than G's Slim fit. I cuff mine and so get a small touch of taper from that. They're more suited to wearing with boots and, overall, are just a far superior and more flattering cut, IMO. That said, the hem openings are a little wider than some who like slim/skinny cuts might normally prefer. Like most Japanese premium/repro jeans producers, they tend to be a bit wider in the lower half than more modern US and European brands. |
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Post by julian on Mar 25, 2015 9:35:26 GMT -6
Also, don't forget the pocket bags on the Iron Hearts. Definitely high quality, nice and thick yet somewhat soft and comfortable. Plus they line the bock pockets too which is something I never thought that I would have cared about but it is definitely a nice touch. Every time I stick my hands in my bock pockets it's like...ahhh...that's right I have comfy back pocket linings. IH also put a nice piece of material around the inner part of the front pocket opening - it's another really nice touch, both functionally and visually. |
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Post by jeffrx on Mar 25, 2015 11:17:45 GMT -6
I forget who it was, but for the person who was looking for an XXL IHSH - Rodeo Bros contacted me and they have access to XXL Wabash shirts in Black, which is what I asked for. The guy who helped me is named Rumiko. He's quite a helpful dude.
He ordered one for me from the mfr, which they got in the shop the next day, and I paid through their private PayPal address. Have not received the shirt yet, but based on their previous results, I would expect a good turnaround.
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Post by jamesr on Mar 25, 2015 11:28:05 GMT -6
Rumiko helped me grab an IHSH-109 that they didn't have advertised. Only difference from jeffrx experience was I asked to used the current 500 yen coupon so Rumiko had me complete an order for a different item on the site. Hopefully, I get the right shirt!  Very helpful and great communication. |
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Post by DigDug on Mar 25, 2015 11:32:34 GMT -6
So whats IH 21oz denim like? It seems I could get a pair of 634's for only $165 (with free shipping). Then I'd send them to RailCar to be custom tapered.
Just not sure if I want 21oz.
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Post by seth on Mar 25, 2015 11:44:59 GMT -6
So whats IH 21oz denim like? It seems I could get a pair of 634's for only $165 (with free shipping). Then I'd send them to RailCar to be custom tapered. Just not sure if I want 21oz. There are two types of IH 21 oz denim (selvedge and non-selvedge). The $165 version you mention is the projectile loomed non-selvedge version. E.g. the IH-634. It has a more open weave, is more breathable, and less dense and dark. It feels less raw compared to the selvedge version. Doesn't fade as dramatically. It's very much like the 18.5 oz stuff you see from Gustin and Lawless. It's just heavier. Most people don't realize the $165 version is not selvedge maybe because it is not sold outside Japan so you just don't come across it much. The $216 version is the shuttle loomed selvedge version. E.g. the IH-634S. It has a denser weave, is a little less breathable, and is more dense and dark. Both stretch a fair amount. The selvedge version seems to stretch more. |
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