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Post by davelewis on Oct 31, 2016 13:48:09 GMT -6
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Post by DigDug on Oct 31, 2016 14:58:32 GMT -6
Good looking piece. Like the buttons. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 4, 2017 23:01:06 GMT -6
I've been wanting to back a piece of Sugar Cane. But, I've got enough jeans, and their sizing kills any hope for a shirt. I'd been on the lookout for a type II denim jacket. I wanted something old-school, though. Something that would look, wear, and age like the original 50's versions. A number of Japanese brands have some interesting options. But, sizing, and some not so traditional denims killed their appeal. LVC has a nice repro option. At nearly $400, the price is a little out of hand, though. Thankfully, Selfedge managed to get Sugar Cane to produce this.....  SUGAR CANE 1953 TYPE II UNSANFORIZED RAW DENIM JACKET - MODIFIED LENGTH $240.00 SE exclusive The jackets of the 50's were cut higher, to accommodate the preferred higher rises of jeans, and the shorter average heights of the men of the time. Some extra length has been added to these, for an updated fit, without sacrificing detail. SC has also added a size 44, as well. Because of this, it may not be a "true" repro. But, with all the other details being so close to original, it qualifies for me. |
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Post by davelewis on Jan 4, 2017 23:12:45 GMT -6
I've been wanting to back a piece of Sugar Cane. But, I've got enough jeans, and their sizing kills any hope for a shirt. I'd been on the lookout for a type II denim jacket. I wanted something old-school, though. Something that would look, wear, and age like the original 50's versions. A number of Japanese brands have some interesting options. But, sizing, and some not so traditional denims killed their appeal. LVC has a nice repro option. At nearly $400, the price is a little out of hand, though. Thankfully, Selfedge managed to get Sugar Cane to produce this..... SUGAR CANE 1953 TYPE II UNSANFORIZED RAW DENIM JACKET - MODIFIED LENGTH $240.00 SE exclusive The jackets of the 50's were cut higher, to accommodate the preferred higher rises of jeans, and the shorter average heights of the men of the time. Some extra length has been added to these, for an updated fit, without sacrificing detail. SC has also added a size 44, as well. Because of this, it may not be a "true" repro. But, with all the other details being so close to original, it qualifies for me. Killer jacket for the money!! I've had a bit of whiskey, and am trying to rationalize this, as the 44 would actually work for me. You need to buy the remaining 44 so there is no temptation for me. Anyone looking for this type of jacket would be well advised to pick one of these up. The IH raw jacket is a bit heavier, but something like $400. Now back to the task at hand. (looking for a pair of wedge sole boots) |
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Post by scooter on Jan 4, 2017 23:21:09 GMT -6
davelewis , I had already purchased it before posting. That last 44 is all you.....
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Post by davelewis on Jan 4, 2017 23:29:48 GMT -6
davelewis , I had already purchased it before posting. That last 44 is all you..... I need to show restraint, lol. I've got more jackets that I deserve. Who know what tomorrow will bring though? I've always like Sugar Cane gear, but as you know, as far as their shirting goes, its made mostly for the Japanese market, and not giant Americans. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 4, 2017 23:48:14 GMT -6
davelewis , I had already purchased it before posting. That last 44 is all you..... I need to show restraint, lol. I've got more jackets that I deserve. Who know what tomorrow will bring though? I've always like Sugar Cane gear, but as you know, as far as their shirting goes, its made mostly for the Japanese market, and not giant Americans. I'm hoping this is a sign of things to come. PBJ recently added a size 6, and I've seen a couple of TFH shirts updated to include a 48. IH has shown there is a market for it. They're only hurting their bottom lines, by not following suit. |
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Post by davelewis on Jan 5, 2017 0:05:37 GMT -6
I need to show restraint, lol. I've got more jackets that I deserve. Who know what tomorrow will bring though? I've always like Sugar Cane gear, but as you know, as far as their shirting goes, its made mostly for the Japanese market, and not giant Americans. I'm hoping this is a sign of things to come. PBJ recently added a size 6, and I've seen a couple of TFH shirts updated to include a 48. IH has shown there is a market for it. They're only hurting their bottom lines, by not following suit. Absolutely. If these other Japanese brands were to cater more to Western sizing, they could definitely take some market share from IH. |
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SugarCane
Jan 5, 2017 0:20:22 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by ickes on Jan 5, 2017 0:20:22 GMT -6
Man that jacket does look good. I have SE store credit to burn too. The sleeve length, or lack there of, concerns me though
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Post by scooter on Jan 5, 2017 0:34:35 GMT -6
Man that jacket does look good. I have SE store credit to burn too. The sleeve length, or lack there of, concerns me though The sleeve length caught my attention, too. But, the shoulder is quite a bit wider than I wear shirts. So, the total sleeve measurement is more than enough. SE isn't always the most reliable, when it comes to specs, either. I'll check in with pre-soak numbers, and a fit check, when it arrives. |
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SugarCane
Jan 5, 2017 0:52:06 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by ickes on Jan 5, 2017 0:52:06 GMT -6
Man that jacket does look good. I have SE store credit to burn too. The sleeve length, or lack there of, concerns me though The sleeve length caught my attention, too. But, the shoulder is quite a bit wider than I wear shirts. So, the total sleeve measurement is more than enough. SE isn't always the most reliable, when it comes to specs, either. I'll check in with pre-soak numbers, and a fit check, when it arrives. I noticed the shoulders were quite wide too so I guess that will make up for some lack of sleeve length. Looking forward to what you think of it. |
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Post by drewcandraw on Jan 5, 2017 11:39:39 GMT -6
Also, waiting to hear back on your reports.
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Post by scooter on Jan 7, 2017 18:10:05 GMT -6
Well, the type II came.... and it's going back. Out of the box, all was great. The denim is just what I had hoped for. It's about how I expected a repro denim to be. Great vintage feel and color. Outer stitching looked good. A couple minor strays. But, nothing to grab any attention. Pre-soak fit check was good, as well. Specs were fairly close. The sleeve length issue was workable. I had about 1" of shrink allowance, sleeve and shoulder combined. As long as I stuck to my soak plan, all would be fine. I was preparing for the initial soak, and turned it inside out. I was looking over the construction, and this immediately caught my eye....   This is on the seam where the left arm meets the body, just above the armpit, as it makes it's way up the back of the shoulder. For comparison, here is the same spot on the right side.....  Besides the obvious stray, stop, restart of the gold double stitch, the white stitch that runs along side was sewn over and over, in a couple of spots. Something gave the sewer a hard time, and it seems they took the easy way out. This seems like a hack job, IMO. I don't know if I'm nit-picking ? But, we pay higher prices for a reason..... higher quality fabrics, and higher quality construction. |
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2017 3:14:29 GMT -6
*In my real opinion (Not fanboy'ing), the "higher quality construction" truly only applies to a few of the Japanese brands I've handled, and a few American artisan brands. I have some Sugar Cane pieces... But, I already know I'm paying for style and NOT laser-precise construction. Same experience with all Toyo brands that I've handled, INCLUDING Mister Freedom/Sugar Cane
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Post by scooter on Jan 10, 2017 10:46:28 GMT -6
*In my real opinion (Not fanboy'ing), the "higher quality construction" truly only applies to a few of the Japanese brands I've handled, and a few American artisan brands. I have some Sugar Cane pieces... But, I already know I'm paying for style and NOT laser-precise construction. Same experience with all Toyo brands that I've handled, INCLUDING Mister Freedom/Sugar Cane I get where you're coming from. I've put my ONI and IH side-by-side, and there is no comparison. With some brands, a little Wabi-sabi is expected. With this piece, I wasn't expecting perfection. But, I couldn't get past the feeling I was getting a brand new jacket that had been repaired already. Shopping online is tough to begin with. Whether it's fit, fabric, or specs, we all try to get as much information about what we are purchasing, ahead of time. Some things, like this issue, are unforeseen by the shop, as well as us. When faced with an issue like this, I always ask myself one question... If I had found this while shopping in-shop, would I have purchased it ? If the answer is "no", it goes back. In the end, I gave myself a couple of days to deliberate, before shooting an email to Kiya. He responded quickly, saying he would get another one out to me, no questions asked. Whether he agreed with my feelings, I can't say. But, I think his response showed he was willing to see things from my point of view. Big picture... I've gained some insight into a brand, and a shop I have had little experience with. I will adjust my expectations accordingly. |
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Post by ickes on Jan 10, 2017 11:26:19 GMT -6
scooter I absolutely agree with you here. That thing should go back and I don't think you are being nitpicky. I have also noticed that my Oni's are nowhere near the quality in terms of construction as my IH's, and that it was I expected honestly and it doesn't bother me enough to not buy Oni's but I just know that they aren't going to be the highest quality in terms of construction.
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Post by scooter on Jan 28, 2017 23:30:41 GMT -6
To follow up... I sent the type II back to Portland, and a replacement came from New York. All was well with the replacement. So, I went ahead and cold soaked it for an hour, this past weekend. It does shrink considerably, but within 1/4" of SE stated shrinkage. My biggest concern was overall sleeve length, which came out spot on. With only a tee, the shoulder seams lie just outside of the drop of my arms. But, layered over a heavy flannel or hoodie, it sits quite well. There is a good amount of room in the body. So, I'm thinking, a warm bucket soak, with the sleeves left out, may tighten it up. I'll update the results....
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