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Post by bozer on Mar 5, 2015 7:34:45 GMT -6
How many of you bother taking your jeans for a chain stitch hemming? My Gustins are size 33 slim but the legs are just too damn long which I think contributes to knee bags. Thinking about going to get them hemmed. Do I really need to find a place that does chainstiching? I wish I could order Gustin's with a shorter length, 34 is just too damn long
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Post by jray on Mar 5, 2015 8:27:31 GMT -6
I cuff mine once or twice so I just go with a regular hem - it's cheaper
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 5, 2015 9:21:32 GMT -6
I hem my normal weight Gustins at a local tailor. Nothing crazy regular hem. $7.
Super heavies, beasts, and super lights I haven't hemmed. I won't hem my samurai's since they are short enough to stack and not look stupid.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 5, 2015 19:21:46 GMT -6
i've gotten all of mine chainstitched. if they came 2" shorter out of the bag i'd just double cuff, but i get them hemmed to a length to single cuff and prefer the chainstitch.
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Post by gaseousclay on Mar 6, 2015 10:11:31 GMT -6
I get my jeans chainstitched. you have to remember that most small companies producing selvedge denim always produce jeans with long inseams. I think this is more about efficiency than anything. With longer inseams, you the customer, gets to decide the length rather than relying on Brand X to do it for you. If I was 6'5 then I might not need hemming, but at 5'11 I do.
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Post by bozer on Mar 6, 2015 10:16:56 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find.
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Post by DigDug on Mar 6, 2015 11:47:07 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find. It Is. But if you cheep out it may bug you over the life of the jeans. If your double cuffing, no worries. But a single or no cuff, get it done right. The fact that you bought selvege says that you appreciate/like/want/etc something a little more different/better/interesting/etc over the other mall jeans. Don't finish it off with what they come with. Get the chain stitch.
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Post by DigDug on Mar 6, 2015 11:48:11 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find. And get it done at RailCar Fine Goods. They do altering and repairs also.
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Post by julian on Mar 6, 2015 11:54:21 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find. And get it done at RailCar Fine Goods. They do altering and repairs also. They're also one of the best makers of jeans outside of Japan (and they very much hold their own against the likes of Iron Heart - seriously)
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Post by julian on Mar 6, 2015 11:55:39 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find. It Is. But if you cheep out it may bug you over the life of the jeans. If your double cuffing, no worries. But a single or no cuff, get it done right. The fact that you bought selvege says that you appreciate/like/want/etc something a little more different/better/interesting/etc over the other mall jeans. Don't finish it off with what they come with. Get the chain stitch. That post begins and ends the debate about whether to get decent jeans hemmed properly. Nice work.
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Post by bozer on Mar 6, 2015 12:22:16 GMT -6
If you send to Railcar, how do you tell them how long you want them to be? Do you try them on at home and cuff to where you want it? Or do you tell them you want it to be a 32 long or something?
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Post by DigDug on Mar 6, 2015 12:24:00 GMT -6
And get it done at RailCar Fine Goods. They do altering and repairs also. They're also one of the best makers of jeans outside of Japan (and they very much hold their own against the likes of Iron Heart - seriously) I've been meaning to PM you a question about RailCar but since you posted. I've got one more pair of jeans that I "need". And they got to be right. What about railcar stands out? Over Iron Heart, 3sixteen, Etc? I like that there in house, construction looks solid. But to be honest, the denims themselfs look pretty standard and not that interesting (they don't give much detail. Like Gustin) I'm looking at the 16oz. Other then being Cone there's no other info. I just need a little push.
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Post by DigDug on Mar 6, 2015 12:28:39 GMT -6
If you send to Railcar, how do you tell them how long you want them to be? Do you try them on at home and cuff to where you want it? Or do you tell them you want it to be a 32 long or something? When you place your order on line it will ask you what you want (1/2" intervals). So the length will be on your order forum. I also put a copy of the order with the length highlighted. You can also change the color of the thread (put the color you want in the notes) If you want to keep the red Gustin, there's no need to put anything. They put the same. It is a pain. And cost. But it's right.
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Post by DigDug on Mar 6, 2015 12:31:12 GMT -6
Also (everyone has there own way) But I wear my jeans for a few weeks adjusting the right length that I like. Then I do a soak, wear another week, then send them out.
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Post by gaseousclay on Mar 6, 2015 12:43:30 GMT -6
I want to do chain stitch but it seems like such a pain in the ass to find. there are several companies that offer chainstitching services, each with their own pricing. I got mine done for free through Blue Owl Workshop, but it was only free because I bought jeans from them. there are other companies like abfits.com and railcarfinegoods which has been mentioned, but I have no experience with these companies. It appears abfits.com charges $15 for chainstitching services but BOW and Railcar charge $25. knowing your inseam is important. You should measure the inseam on your best fitting jeans and go with that. If I get jeans hemmed/chainstitched I first determine whether or not i'll cuff, and this is dependent on the size of the cuff opening and the type of pants (selvedge jeans vs chinos). typically if the cuff opening measures 8-8.25" across then i'll cuff and go with a longer inseam, and if it's below 8", like 7.75" then i won't cuff and i'll have the inseam a little shorter. I have a pair of N&F chinos that I plan on having hemmed/chainstitched, but because they're chinos I'll probably go with a shorter length (since I won't be cuffing them). YMMV
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Post by marauder on Mar 6, 2015 21:10:24 GMT -6
I usually just regular hem my jeans myself with an old singer machine. Gustins however are not long enough for me to hem. I can usually wear 33" inseams and Gs either shrink to 33 or I do a single cuff or stack.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 6, 2015 23:18:56 GMT -6
Honestly from a distance can you really tell the difference? Chainstitching is weaker as well. You like Gustin for flat felled seams already doesn't it make sense to have a lock stitch hem too?
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Post by marauder on Mar 6, 2015 23:54:38 GMT -6
I don't quite get the fascination with chain-stitching. Other than being mildly visually appealing, it doesn't have much going for it. Weaker stitch that unravels easily and plus the inside of the chain stitch feels rough against the skin, especially noticeable in the waistband. That's why some of the indie makers almost exclusively use single needle lockstitch to make the entire jeans.
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Post by Griffin on Mar 7, 2015 5:04:41 GMT -6
I just hem with normal straight seem on my singer. I do buy extra strong and thick thread tho and have copper, black, navy, grey and offwhite. Been learning to make pretty solid bar tack but cant do it over the thickest part, but still like to do it. I dont think anyone under normal wearing notice the difference on my hemming vs chainstitch.
I usually Just hem them straight away but make them half an inch to an inch extra to acommodate for washing in a years time.
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Post by seth on Mar 7, 2015 8:52:20 GMT -6
I don't quite get the fascination with chain-stitching. Other than being mildly visually appealing, it doesn't have much going for it. Weaker stitch that unravels easily and plus the inside of the chain stitch feels rough against the skin, especially noticeable in the waistband. That's why some of the indie makers almost exclusively use single needle lockstitch to make the entire jeans. True. I used to be concerned with chain stitching for aesthetic reasons, but given the added cost of finding a chain stitcher and decreased strength of the stitch itself, I don't bother with chain stitching at all anymore. I just get jeans hemmed with a lock stitch using either dark blue or black thread. There is no contrast at all and better durability. It's cheaper, stronger, and stealthy.
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Post by bozer on Mar 7, 2015 9:12:03 GMT -6
Ok I'm just going to go to the dry cleaners today and ask them if they tailor jeans. Is there a certain type of hem I need to ask for? I like the idea of sticking with dark blue or black thread.
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bclark
Junior Member
Posts: 85
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Post by bclark on Mar 7, 2015 13:01:18 GMT -6
I really think the only time shipping them out matters is when you start getting into heavyweight. My local tailor did ok with 19oz E3s but did a horrifyingly bad job with 21oz their machines just cannot handle it. Normal Gustin weight should be no problem though.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 7, 2015 21:55:34 GMT -6
Ok I'm just going to go to the dry cleaners today and ask them if they tailor jeans. Is there a certain type of hem I need to ask for? I like the idea of sticking with dark blue or black thread. I would ask for a standard stitch or lock stitch. I would advise against an "original hem" which cuts off the hem and re attached the original chain stitch.
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Post by marauder on Mar 7, 2015 23:54:14 GMT -6
Ok I'm just going to go to the dry cleaners today and ask them if they tailor jeans. Is there a certain type of hem I need to ask for? I like the idea of sticking with dark blue or black thread. I would ask for a standard stitch or lock stitch. I would advise against an "original hem" which cuts off the hem and re attached the original chain stitch. That sounds so ridiculous - I've never heard of that before. Does that actually happen?! Sounds like fake boobs to me.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 8, 2015 6:49:19 GMT -6
Yeah original hem type hemming is a real thing. It usually turns out crappy.
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