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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2015 22:54:56 GMT -6
devastitis - also, you're not a tall guy, so know that if you go the tall route you're probably not going to be able to leave it untucked. This thing is really long in the body, too, it's just not really a problem since I was planning on it being a tucked shirt anyway as I work on stepping up some of my wardrobe outside of casual/workwear. It's truly a tall fit, I'm just tired of having nice fabrics that won't even act like they're planning on thinking about staying tucked through any (however limited) range of motion. It's going to get a cold wash and then likely go to a tailor with some pants I need to get hemmed, since I'll be surprised if a cold wash shortens the sleeves as much as I'm looking for, and the Large fit isn't generous enough in the chest for me to be comfortable with a warm wash. The Pinpoint Oxfords were going to be tucked. The only two that I won't be tucking is my blue Oxford and white Oxford. |
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Post by bugula on Jun 23, 2015 7:54:56 GMT -6
got the Pure Blue 13s yesterday (still surprised they went with that name) and was pleasantly surprised with the feel and construction of them. the denim is a good stiffness for its weight and the warp's fairly soft.
G seems to really be dialing in on production. i did notice that the loops were sewn onto the pocket bags though - too lazy to see if this is consistent with other pairs but it's the first i noticed it and thought that was a bit strange.
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Post by metals37 on Jun 23, 2015 20:47:14 GMT -6
got the Pure Blue 13s yesterday (still surprised they went with that name) and was pleasantly surprised with the feel and construction of them. the denim is a good stiffness for its weight and the warp's fairly soft. G seems to really be dialing in on production. i did notice that the loops were sewn onto the pocket bags though - too lazy to see if this is consistent with other pairs but it's the first i noticed it and thought that was a bit strange. What size are they? I feel like on my 32 straights the front two loops are too close to the center and they could benefit from being pushed out - but then would probably end up getting sewn into the pocket bags...... |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 23, 2015 22:28:39 GMT -6
The pocket bags get sewn on before the waist band, so I did a spot-check on all my jeans to verify. The only time the bar-tack for the belt loop doesn't go through the pocket bag is when the belt loops are too close to the fly and therefore inside the pocket. Flint and tinder, naked and famous, Gustin, lawless, Levi's, Woolf, of all threads, time and silence, and Ciano jeans are all this way. Basically, if the bar-tack doesn't go through the pocket bag, it's actually an error.
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Post by wisdom on Jun 23, 2015 23:46:22 GMT -6
The pocket bags get sewn on before the waist band, so I did a spot-check on all my jeans to verify. The only time the bar-tack for the belt loop doesn't go through the pocket bag is when the belt loops are too close to the fly and therefore inside the pocket. Flint and tinder, naked and famous, Gustin, lawless, Levi's, Woolf, of all threads, time and silence, and Ciano jeans are all this way. Basically, if the bar-tack doesn't go through the pocket bag, it's actually an error. My LD's don't exhibit this phenomenon.. I always felt this was a bit sloppy on the part of the sewer and have a few examples of the bar tack from the belt loop being sewn through the pocket bag while it wasn't straight, making part of it permanently crumpled and the bag perpetually laying slightly crooked. It doesn't make any noticeable functional difference, but seems like poor attention to detail or indifference. Does Ironheart (I suppose they're our benchmark for quality) do this with their pocket bags and belt loops? |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 23, 2015 23:52:55 GMT -6
The pocket bags get sewn on before the waist band, so I did a spot-check on all my jeans to verify. The only time the bar-tack for the belt loop doesn't go through the pocket bag is when the belt loops are too close to the fly and therefore inside the pocket. Flint and tinder, naked and famous, Gustin, lawless, Levi's, Woolf, of all threads, time and silence, and Ciano jeans are all this way. Basically, if the bar-tack doesn't go through the pocket bag, it's actually an error. My LD's don't exhibit this phenomenon.. I always felt this was a bit sloppy on the part of the sewer and have a few examples of the bar tack from the belt loop being sewn through the pocket bag while it wasn't straight, making part of it permanently crumpled and the bag perpetually laying slightly crooked. It doesn't make any noticeable functional difference, but seems like poor attention to detail or indifference. Does Ironheart (I suppose they're our benchmark for quality) do this with their pocket bags and belt loops? The iron hearts linked earlier in their thread:  Oni:  The Flat Head:  The Strike Gold:  |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 24, 2015 0:07:49 GMT -6
Another Iron Heart example (also shows the herringbone pocket bag):  Momotaro:  PBJ:  On Blue in Green I found a pair of fullcount that didn't have the bar-tack through the pocket bag and a pair that did. Roy jeans, grail to some people, certainly one of the top producers in denim circles:   |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 24, 2015 1:33:01 GMT -6
I was having trouble remembering where this was, because it's the best run-through I've seen of a pair of jeans, and it sort of explains the point I was trying to make with the order of operations. Given when the belt loops go on (and there's no other place to really work them in, although repro manufacturers and Levi's still have it this way even with the un-tucked belt loops) there's not really any way to not tack through the pocket-bags without severely complicating the process as the pocket bags have to be sewed into the front panels almost before anything else unless you want your pocket stitching on the top (and you really couldn't even get away with that if you wanted to). Anyway, the Ande Whall run-through on building a pair of jeans is here, I tried to add the most pertinent image, but it runs like 10 pages (not separate images), and I'm done blowing this up. |
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Post by wisdom on Jun 24, 2015 2:13:09 GMT -6
I was having trouble remembering where this was, because it's the best run-through I've seen of a pair of jeans, and it sort of explains the point I was trying to make with the order of operations. Given when the belt loops go on (and there's no other place to really work them in, although repro manufacturers and Levi's still have it this way even with the un-tucked belt loops) there's not really any way to not tack through the pocket-bags without severely complicating the process as the pocket bags have to be sewed into the front panels almost before anything else unless you want your pocket stitching on the top (and you really couldn't even get away with that if you wanted to). Anyway, the Ande Whall run-through on building a pair of jeans is here, I tried to add the most pertinent image, but it runs like 10 pages (not separate images), and I'm done blowing this up. Very nice catalog of evidence.. in most of these cases, the bartack through the pocketbag looks very deliberate, with a place almost reserved for the bartack. On my G's, the bartack sometimes fixes the pocketbag in a crooked or crumpled position, in one example the pocketbag's edge is bartacked, but half the bartack doesn't catch any pocketbag, and in other examples, doesn't touch the pocketbag at all. I'd feel this were more deliberate by G if they were more consistent. |
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Post by exophobe on Jun 24, 2015 2:27:12 GMT -6
wisdom - I see. The original note was about not being sure that the bar-tack is supposed to be through the pocket-bag, and whether this was a production error. A while back someone on styleforum explained the trouble they had getting Gustin support to recognize the somewhat common issue they seem to have with the belt loops being off center in the front, which the inconsistent stitching through the pocket would be a symptom of. It got big gustin's attention and he worked with the guy to get it resolved (this was pretty dramatic on this specific example). So I guess the end point is yes, it's supposed to bartack through the pocket bag, and if it doesn't it's likely an alignment issue. Looking at the inside, the bartacks should be relatively evenly spaced from the fly buttons. A severely skewed set of belt loops can make it difficult to get a belt aligned centered to the fly.
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Post by Marc on Aug 2, 2015 19:11:42 GMT -6
So I received my Downtown Browns this weekend... Question for you all... Do these things fade? Here's why I ask. I put these in the bathtub and did a hand wash to get out the shrinkage and starch. I now have these light/abraded spots in places that one often sees indigo fades (like corners of back pockets, seam of the back rise, random other spots). Seems like dye rubbed off. A little bummed because I generally don't want my brown denim to fade. But what's up with this stuff? For those that have had the Downtown Brown from previous runs, do these things fade over time?
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Post by quick on Aug 2, 2015 19:19:41 GMT -6
they dont fade.
Also, I'd avoid washing as long as possible.
I felt like my pair lost a lot of luster after being soaked.
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Post by devastitis on Aug 2, 2015 19:25:53 GMT -6
I think mine faded a bit. I'll have to check on them again. It's been months since I've worn mine.
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Post by mkeview on Sept 4, 2015 17:18:17 GMT -6
Just got my bright plaid Oxford. Serious disappointment. I had it before but it was too small but loved the fabric.
If anyone had the previous version and then got this one you will realize this is not the same. It is much lighter than the 5.0 Oxford it's supposed to be.
If that wasn't bad enough the chest measurement is supposed to be 43.5 and it might be 40 inches if I stretch it tight. Obviously sending it back ASAP.
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Post by ickes on Sept 4, 2015 18:01:29 GMT -6
Just got my bright plaid Oxford. Serious disappointment. I had it before but it was too small but loved the fabric. If anyone had the previous version and then got this one you will realize this is not the same. It is much lighter than the 5.0 Oxford it's supposed to be. If that wasn't bad enough the chest measurement is supposed to be 43.5 and it might be 40 inches if I stretch it tight. Obviously sending it back ASAP. It's not the same fabric as the first offering? |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Sept 4, 2015 18:03:25 GMT -6
Just got my bright plaid Oxford. Serious disappointment. I had it before but it was too small but loved the fabric. If anyone had the previous version and then got this one you will realize this is not the same. It is much lighter than the 5.0 Oxford it's supposed to be. If that wasn't bad enough the chest measurement is supposed to be 43.5 and it might be 40 inches if I stretch it tight. Obviously sending it back ASAP. Ridiculous. |
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Post by mkeview on Sept 4, 2015 18:44:01 GMT -6
I had both. Definitely not the exact same fabric. Similar look but I'm positive the thickness and stiffness of the old fabric is non existent in this. Sucks because I loved the old version.
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Post by bruns on Sept 5, 2015 6:14:54 GMT -6
Just got my bright plaid Oxford. Serious disappointment. I had it before but it was too small but loved the fabric. If anyone had the previous version and then got this one you will realize this is not the same. It is much lighter than the 5.0 Oxford it's supposed to be. If that wasn't bad enough the chest measurement is supposed to be 43.5 and it might be 40 inches if I stretch it tight. Obviously sending it back ASAP. Gustin sizing is all over the place. Slowly weening myself off because of it. Even the belt I ordered from the stock store was blemished. Sticking to buying basics from them or new stuff others are selling on eBay (at least that way you can get the exact measurements). |
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 5, 2015 7:14:48 GMT -6
Just got my bright plaid Oxford. Serious disappointment. I had it before but it was too small but loved the fabric. If anyone had the previous version and then got this one you will realize this is not the same. It is much lighter than the 5.0 Oxford it's supposed to be. If that wasn't bad enough the chest measurement is supposed to be 43.5 and it might be 40 inches if I stretch it tight. Obviously sending it back ASAP. Gustin sizing is all over the place. Slowly weening myself off because of it. Even the belt I ordered from the stock store was blemished. Sticking to buying basics from them or new stuff others are selling on eBay (at least that way you can get the exact measurements). My biggest gripe from my first order. Some 36 slims fit amazing. Others sewed up like a 34 or 35 slim and unwearable. |
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Post by phait on Oct 9, 2015 15:58:04 GMT -6
My horween Dublin roller belt just came in and I'm a bit torn... It really cracked, like they never oiled the leather and just man-handled the shit out it and now its covered in the cracks that dry leather gets. I've applied a few coats of mink oil but they just aren't saturating out. I would love to return it but it's a huge pain in the ass because I'm from out of country and the shipping isn't worth it. I think I'll just take some picks, send them to Gustin and try and get some store credit.
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Post by Subsound on Oct 14, 2015 22:18:55 GMT -6
My #196 Indigo Herringbones arrived yesterday ( 2nd release). They are a nice mid-blue indigo with a subtle herringbone pattern, fairly lightweight & not stiff, and the tonal stitching keeps them looking more formal which I like. I had returned the moss herringbones (too bright green) & was happy to wait for these to come back. Recommended if you're looking for a subtle pattern in your denim.  |
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Post by DigDug on Oct 14, 2015 22:28:28 GMT -6
My horween Dublin roller belt just came in and I'm a bit torn... It really cracked, like they never oiled the leather and just man-handled the shit out it and now its covered in the cracks that dry leather gets. I've applied a few coats of mink oil but they just aren't saturating out. I would love to return it but it's a huge pain in the ass because I'm from out of country and the shipping isn't worth it. I think I'll just take some picks, send them to Gustin and try and get some store credit. Post some pics here. Some guys like that look. The old belt that your GrandFather had that he never oiled. Can be kind of cool. |
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Post by devastitis on Oct 16, 2015 9:58:31 GMT -6
New shirt style coming soon for their shirts. Extra pocket, no button down collar. Pic is up on their IG.
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Post by whiskeyriver on Oct 16, 2015 10:05:47 GMT -6
New shirt style coming soon for their shirts. Extra pocket, no button down collar. Pic is up on their IG. FINALLY. That's great. Glad they listened. |
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Post by mkeview on Oct 16, 2015 10:20:57 GMT -6
Looks good so far. Hopefully those scoops are changed.
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