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Post by DigDug on May 24, 2016 20:35:36 GMT -6
None of my expensive items seem to fit me just right But my cheeper brand items all seem to fit just right. For example - IH shirts have neck sizes made for heavy weight lifters Gustins WS are to long Tellasons arm holes are to tall/tight Suger Cane and others are to Billowy But my Old Navy, Wrangler, Gap, etc fit just fine.
All my Selvedge jeans are to Low, Wide, tight, stiff, lose, etc
Anyone else kind of tired of paying top shelf pricing for items that you can't get to fit like a glove?
The only supplier that I've found to have the details I like and a decent price but most importantly the Fit just right is Tayor Stitch. Not to mention great CS.
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Post by northcoast on May 24, 2016 20:54:57 GMT -6
Well sortof. I have that thing going where JC**W long sleeve shirts fit me great and G's can be annoying but TS's fit pretty well once you get past the exactly fitting arms, vs. a little room. I have been thinking for awhile about going full MTO on shirts. I have a line on a local tailor that does MTO shirts and keep putting off paying him to measure me and bring in a bunch of clothes for comparisons sake. I'm getting sick of fighting the low rise of G's jeans. They need just a little more front rise for me to be fully comfortable and this is where JC**W jeans fit great. So I may end up getting a custom done for CF or Indigogene. I have the same issue with jackets, my monkey arms and wide shoulders make fits a PITA. My most impressively well fitting piece in the last year has to be my cramerton chino's from Brave Star. Those things are awesome, but sadly they only make that style chinos in one fabric.......... bravestarselvage.com/products/the-tapered-selvage-chino?variant=3672905669
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Post by stinky on May 25, 2016 8:07:41 GMT -6
Yes, yes, yes and yes to all of it. I want jeans made out of Gustin-sourced denim that fit me like BR, Gap and JCrew jeans. For the love of all things holy, I have had to modify the freaking calves on many pairs of G jeans just to allow blood flow to my feet, yet if I order the regular cut, there's all this extra fabric pooling and drooping and flapping about my feet. I want any shirt that I order from anywhere to fit me like a JCrew L/Slim or M/Regular. There's something to be said about buying something off the shelf or ordering online knowing that it's going to fit perfectly and not worrying about whether it sewed up small or big or has large scoops or tight forearms or stupid high arm holes that allow no movement without coming untucked (although with all earned respect to the gentleman around these parts, of course). CF is my last hope for jeans without nagging fit compromises. DigDug, thanks for the honest post.
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Post by northcoast on May 25, 2016 8:31:39 GMT -6
For the love of all things holy, I have had to modify the freaking calves on many pairs of G jeans just to allow blood flow to my feet, yet if I order the regular cut, there's all this extra fabric pooling and drooping and flapping about my feet. I want any shirt that I order from anywhere to fit me like a JCrew L/Slim or M/Regular. There's something to be said about buying something off the shelf or ordering online knowing that it's going to fit perfectly and not worrying about whether it sewed up small or big or has large scoops or tight forearms or stupid high arm holes that allow no movement without coming untucked CF is my last hope for jeans without nagging fit compromises. DigDug , thanks for the honest post. The calf thing sucks, though most of mine have stretched but I don't bike like a lot of you guys so I could see where the calf and the thigh thing would drive you nuts. Speaking of nuts, thats what I hate about the G straights, they droop so low it seems to be made for guys that would normally have to wear nut bra's. But the slims make your ass pop out, how about a little more front rise G! And I'm about over the effing arm hole BS. WTF good are these shirts you can't move in? I think it's fine for suits, but I'm tiring of it in day to day wear.
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Post by nate001 on May 25, 2016 8:40:59 GMT -6
Yes, yes, yes and yes to all of it. I want jeans made out of Gustin-sourced denim that fit me like BR, Gap and JCrew jeans. For the love of all things holy, I have had to modify the freaking calves on many pairs of G jeans just to allow blood flow to my feet, yet if I order the regular cut, there's all this extra fabric pooling and drooping and flapping about my feet. I want any shirt that I order from anywhere to fit me like a JCrew L/Slim or M/Regular. There's something to be said about buying something off the shelf or ordering online knowing that it's going to fit perfectly and not worrying about whether it sewed up small or big or has large scoops or tight forearms or stupid high arm holes that allow no movement without coming untucked (although with all earned respect to the gentleman around these parts, of course). CF is my last hope for jeans without nagging fit compromises. DigDug, thanks for the honest post. Might want to look at ratio for shirts. I've been happy with their fit just using their standard fit system, but if you really want to fine tune it, you can do a ridiculous amount of fit tweaking. MiUSA, not terribly expensive. Their fabric options are a little uninspired, but worth a look.
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Post by gaseousclay on May 25, 2016 9:07:37 GMT -6
i've found the opposite to be true for me. the majority of my expensive purchases fit me fine, whereas, i've have quite a few inexpensive purchases that are a little off. I have a check Levi's Western that fits great everywhere except in the shoulders which are tight. I also had a J.Crew khaki long sleeve shirt that I donated because it was too frumpy and huge (I bought it online). My other J.Crew long sleeve shirts are more dressy/long in the torso and need to be tucked. They rarely get worn. My best fitting clothes come from 3sixteen. I've just found their stuff to be more consistent than other brands.
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Post by bentin on May 25, 2016 9:12:14 GMT -6
There are definitely brands that fit me (RgT) and those that don't (G) and some in between. Ratio and Proper Cloth are nice if you either get measured or really understand the measurements and how changing them will effect things.
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Post by nate001 on May 25, 2016 9:14:07 GMT -6
One more pitch for ratio. A friend of mine has, per his description, disproportionately long arms. He ordered a ratio shirt that fit great out of the box, but after a wash, the sleeves were too short. Ratio took the shirt back and lengthened the arms at no charge. They also changed his fit profile so all the shirts he orders from now on will have the adjusted fit.
I know nothing about shirt construction, but they must have had to make new arms for that shirt, right? That seems like a company committed to getting the fit right.
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2016 9:18:46 GMT -6
I find variations within a brand the most frustrating. i.e. IH having a different fit with every item. No two of us are the same so you need to be a little flexible, I'll wear things a bit big but not too slim. It's just not comfortable.
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Post by DigDug on May 25, 2016 9:21:54 GMT -6
Ratio looks like they may make a good fit. But I guess I'm talking about WorkWear denim, chambrays, Twills, etc.
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Post by exophobe on May 25, 2016 9:48:41 GMT -6
Ratio looks like they may make a good fit. But I guess I'm talking about WorkWear denim, chambrays, Twills, etc. Take one of your best fitting pieces, and send it to Manny at indigogene and get it made out of Gustin fabrics. Just keep in mind that you need to come up with numbers for shrink. He may have strategies for this, Ciano tends to shrink a sample of his fabrics and give sizing advice based on that. Both of them are very reasonably priced for what they do, and I believe Manny will make chinos out of twill if you need to get less work-wear-y. nicer shirts go for ratio, and quit worrying about it, until you get fat.
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Post by DigDug on May 25, 2016 10:23:31 GMT -6
Ratio looks like they may make a good fit. But I guess I'm talking about WorkWear denim, chambrays, Twills, etc. Take one of your best fitting pieces, and send it to Manny at indigogene and get it made out of Gustin fabrics. Just keep in mind that you need to come up with numbers for shrink. He may have strategies for this, Ciano tends to shrink a sample of his fabrics and give sizing advice based on that. Both of them are very reasonably priced for what they do, and I believe Manny will make chinos out of twill if you need to get less work-wear-y. nicer shirts go for ratio, and quit worrying about it, until you get fat. I have two shirts from Manny both very well made and worth the price. One is a heavy wool Black Watch and fits great. I wear it a lot. The other is a Indigo Canvas. I like it but the arm holes are high and tight (like many other makers).
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Post by stinky on May 25, 2016 10:37:05 GMT -6
Nothing ruins the shirt wearing experience like the arm attachment seam digging into your armpit. Why is this a thing?
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Post by gaseousclay on May 25, 2016 10:44:10 GMT -6
I find variations within a brand the most frustrating. i.e. IH having a different fit with every item. No two of us are the same so you need to be a little flexible, I'll wear things a bit big but not too slim. It's just not comfortable. I would argue that no two fabrics are the same and there will be variations with shrinkage. So heavy flannel might experience more (or less depending on the fabric) versus chambray, twill or denim shirts.
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Post by drewcandraw on May 25, 2016 10:51:50 GMT -6
Well I feel like I am one of those dudes with weird proprotions. So getting clothes to fit me decently is a challenge. 10 years ago I was most likely a small and a 28 waist cause I was like 125lbs but after college and lifting a little to now I am 200lbs wearing large to XL.
Most shirts I have a problem with the neck as i need at least a 17 to button, but that introduces a chest way bigger than what I need. Then comes the shoulders where a very form fitting is around 18.5 but I feel more comfortable around 19-19.5.
Taylor stitch for the most part works for me minus the tight cuffs and sometimes high arm holes.
Manny has made my dad and me 5 workwear shirts. I just sent my dads favorite shirt and he used it as a pattern to knock down sizing. I measured my best fitting stuff and so far everthing is good.
For some reason, my Costco flannels for $10 fit spot on.
Jeans are another long story due to big butt and thighs.
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Post by DigDug on May 25, 2016 11:58:39 GMT -6
Nothing ruins the shirt wearing experience like the arm attachment seam digging into your armpit. Why is this a thing? I believe it to be the new modern cut. High and smaller arm holes give the shirt a slimmer less bulky look.
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Post by Deleted on May 25, 2016 12:01:30 GMT -6
I find variations within a brand the most frustrating. i.e. IH having a different fit with every item. No two of us are the same so you need to be a little flexible, I'll wear things a bit big but not too slim. It's just not comfortable. I would argue that no two fabrics are the same and there will be variations with shrinkage. So heavy flannel might experience more (or less depending on the fabric) versus chambray, twill or denim shirts. Talking pre-shrink measurement.
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Post by kylepa on May 25, 2016 12:39:24 GMT -6
None of my expensive items seem to fit me just right But my cheeper brand items all seem to fit just right. For example - IH shirts have neck sizes made for heavy weight lifters Gustins WS are to long Tellasons arm holes are to tall/tight Suger Cane and others are to Billowy But my Old Navy, Wrangler, Gap, etc fit just fine. All my Selvedge jeans are to Low, Wide, tight, stiff, lose, etc Anyone else kind of tired of paying top shelf pricing for items that you can't get to fit like a glove? The only supplier that I've found to have the details I like and a decent price but most importantly the Fit just right is Tayor Stitch. Not to mention great CS. I agree 100% and will add that Gap, uniqlo and Jcrew styles and fabrics are generally more attractive as well. In particular I hate that most work wear companies use HUGE collars on their shirts. My exceptions to this rule are Freenote Cloth's railstripe shirt and Epaulet's engineer shirt and RT's SK jeans. I still won't buy any more gap, Jcrew etc on principle, but I do miss their stuff. It's been an expensive learning curve but I've found the few companies that make stuff I like in a good fit and I will be sticking with them. I'm still looking for a good MiUSA dress shirt besides the TS California, something with a spread or semi spread collar.
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