Difference in loomstates

The problem with loomstate is that it's generally unpredictable, so this is a difficult question. There is also Sanforized and Unsanforized (which may or may not, depending on who's assigning the descriptors, even be raw or unwashed), which complicates it even further. Specifically in terms of Gustin, they designate whether it's Sanforized, Unsanforized, or Loomstate, however within each of these descriptions actual shrinkage will vary due to the density of the weave, and the size of the yarn.

To put it simply, though, loomstate will shrink the most out of any denim, then Unsanforized, then Sanforized. I think the original loomstate have been caught shrinking the most, though, I don't know if there's a large enough sample to say about the black or zimbabwe. Japanese unsanforized seems to be more subject to shrink (and stretch) than that from Cone. Finally, Sanforized ranges from no shrink in cold to up to 6% inseam/3% waist shrinkage in my experience (this also comes down to direction, the inseam has less resistance so it will tend to shrink more than the waist since there are three layers of fabric and several runs of thread running perpendicular to the grain).

In other words, a more specific question might get you a better answer.

Just be careful though as you go through these from other manufacturers. A lot of smaller guys either don't know or were told the wrong thing by fabric jobbers (and even Gustin seems to run into similar issues from time to time). Many sell "raw" (meaning unwashed) as "unsanforized" while not many will try to say loomstate unless they know. Depending on how far down the rabbit-hole you want to go, you could start to assume that the black or zimbabwe loomstate didn't shrink as much because they were actually unsanforized and not loomstate -- which could explain why they have a far less slubby wear-in than the OG -- and also explain why they seemed to behave similarly to the Cone unsanforized shrinkage numbers. 

It's actually a very difficult thing to nail all this down, many times if you want it to be reliable, you have to go to places having the denim woven for them under custom orders such as Oni, PBJ, Iron Heart, Roy (lately), etc. Those that really take pride in the fabric-manufacture side of their business.

Oh OK. I was reading this guy with the skinnys:

selvedgestyle.com/thread/622/gustin-skinny-fit?page=2

mine regular ones shrunk about two sizes

My Naked&Famous loom states shrink about 1/2 in in the waist and almost an inch in length every time I soak them and drip dry them.
They are a little tight to put back on, But seem to always stretch back out to fit me after I wear them for a few hours. I have not put them in the dryer.
I am afraid they will shrink up too much for me to put them back on.
How to you guys launder your loom-state denim?

With my loomies I did an initial warm soak to shrink, again at the 6 month mark and end of year 1. This was to allow time for the fades to develop. Now I do a hot soak with a touch of woolite dark every month or so, and hang dry.

Tests have shown that water temp dictates shrinkage more than being put into the dryer. Why else would we do an initial soak to shrink? The only reason I don't use a dryer is to retain as much indigo as I can and avoid the weird fade marks that can come from the fins in a dryer

This is off topic but not sure where else to post it.

I tried returning my Vintage 18's and for whatever reason, they've ended up back in London and Gustin have said I can keep them.

They may fit me on the waist now as I've lost a bit of weight, but ideally I'd want the hem to be smaller. If I gave them a cold soak all over and then hot soaked the lower leg, what kind of shrinkage could I see? If it's about 7.5 inches now, is there any chance of it getting down closer to 7? I know they're not loomstate but seems like a decent point of comparison.

My girlfriend has convinced me that a stronger taper suits me better. The thigh on Gustins are fine, but prefer a smaller hem if possible. I'll try hot soaking the cuff initially and see what that leads me- they're back in sunny London at the moment but will give it a go next time I visit. Thanks!

Has anyone seen both the Gustin and Naked and Famous loomstate? Curious how similar/different they are. Thanks.

Just know that G's Slim cut in unsanforized tends to result in a Skinny fit with absurdly low rise. Better to go straight fit so that you get a decent rise post soak.

Unless of course you're after jeggings. In which case, carry on.

If you wash them warm or hot, three sizes might get you close, but the rise may be an issue. In your case, assuming you're used to the 33 slim, they might work for you. I ordered one fit up (typically get 34 slim, ordered 34 straight), which worked out well after a cold wash, though I'd probably go up one more size of I did it again.