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Post by wdw on Jun 12, 2015 14:13:46 GMT -6
Following on from Wils' (Middleage's?) inspiration oh so many months ago, my Brando jacket finally arrived. This was ordered without any fit chart being available, but is based on the Field Hand dimensions. As that has a back length of 24.5" in the slim M, I asked for it to be made an extra half inch, taking it to 25".
As I've just found out from Ciano, his 25" is shorter than my leather jacket world 25". I measure from the base of the collar, whereas Ciano measures from the top of the shoulder, so that came in at 23 5/8" to me, but 25" to Ciano. That difference is crucial to me, as I was obviously aiming for a longer fit to cover my belt more than it does in the pics. Ciano thinks I should have gone with the slim Large, but I felt the chest was too wide there, at 46", compared to the 44" in the slim M and 45" in the slim Large Car Coat.
I'm also unsure about the shoulders, as the seam width is only 15.5", which is less than anything I have. For reference, I'm 5' 11" with a 40" chest, so this jacket would probably suit someone shorter. I'm interested in views on the fit from others. I think it looks a better fit from the back than the front, which just seems too short and narrow in the shoulders to me.
Ciano has agreed to take this back and says he's happy to sell it on this forum, if anyone's interested. I would send it direct to the buyer, but Ciano would be paid.
As for the jacket, it's a great style, and well made with taped inner seams and also a lined front inner. It's navy blue with copper stitching and hand carved wooden buttons. The jacket looks a bit darker in real life than shown here.
I think it might be useful for the mods to add Wils' posts about his jacket, which seems to be quite a bit longer on him, just to add something else into the mix. 
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Post by metals37 on Jun 12, 2015 14:34:44 GMT -6
Those buttons are beautiful.
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Post by Winterland on Jun 13, 2015 13:39:47 GMT -6
Great jacket.
Ciano should post on their website where to measure for length. I have always seen back length measured from bottom of collar to bottom of hem.
At first glance the jacket looks short just from the front but I think if your jeans weren't so contrasting and maybe at a different angle would look fine. My leather jackets fall to almost exactly the same front and back. Would be curious to see a front pic with indigo jeans.
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 13, 2015 14:14:35 GMT -6
Great jacket. Ciano should post on their website where to measure for length. I have always seen back length measured from bottom of collar to bottom of hem. At first glance the jacket looks short just from the front but I think if your jeans weren't so contrasting and maybe at a different angle would look fine. My leather jackets fall to almost exactly the same front and back. Would be curious to see a front pic with indigo jeans. I agree, my jacket is going to come in short now :/ |
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Post by wdw on Jun 13, 2015 14:29:22 GMT -6
benjaminpersitz, is it too late to change your order details? In my emails to Ciano about the length, I focussed on leather jacket companies doing base of collar to hem, but I forgot that IH and I'm sure G are the same. I've never had a jacket come in short before, and remember I added 0.5" to the standard length, so this would have been even shorter. But to repeat, Ciano was cool about exchanging it and didn't try to wriggle out of it. This is just another example of how important fit diagrams are, and to be fair to IH they put a link on each item, along with specific item quirks, which must be the gold standard of fit guides.
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Post by quick on Jun 13, 2015 14:32:45 GMT -6
Good looking jacket, the only thing I dont like about it is it's a little boxy.
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Post by wdw on Jun 13, 2015 14:39:53 GMT -6
Good looking jacket, the only thing I dont like about it is it's a little boxy. I think that's the relatively narrow shoulder seams giving that look. If they were 1" or preferably 2" wider it would be less boxy. It's possible the regular fit has wider shoulders too, which would give it a different look. |
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Post by Winterland on Jun 13, 2015 17:50:58 GMT -6
Good looking jacket, the only thing I dont like about it is it's a little boxy. I think that's the relatively narrow shoulder seams giving that look. If they were 1" or preferably 2" wider it would be less boxy. It's possible the regular fit has wider shoulders too, which would give it a different look. I forgot to mention that yes the shoulders do seem narrow by the measurement. I wear 39 inch chest and shoulders I like are about 17.5 I have noticed Iron Heart shirts seem to run a little narrow in their shoulders also. 16.5 That is one of the reasons why I have liked my lawless shirts as the shoulders were just perfect. You end up with some wiggle room with the shoulders as long as the arms are long enough. Your shoulders just extend into the arms. As mentioned just not as flattering of a look if you like more of a v-shape. |
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Post by cianofarmer on Jun 13, 2015 22:36:00 GMT -6
Hey everyone.
just what to add a couple of comments on this jacket.
at first the M Brando jacket was based off a spec that WILS gave us.....it is different than our field jacket spec.
so the one we made for WDW is based off of WILS spec with the custom measurements he provided...
we are going to make an XL M Brandon jacket to show everyone what it looks like with our specs.... the specs will be based on our Field jacket specs.
we are always willing to make our customers happy and make sure you get what you want....
but we are always tweaking our specs to get the right fit and look.....
as Mike always says... "we never what you to feel you are locked in to buying something from us,,we will always work with you to get you what you want"
Funny Story
no disrespect to you WDW..i apologize in advance if i did....;-(
Mike and I both where thinking the jacket was off...I wanted to re-visit the measurement issue but Mike said " the customer is always right".
we tried it on a fit model...the only person we could find that is small enough for the jacket was Mike's GF...Texas boys do not have size M in the closet....BQQ diet
Mike's GF is 5"1" and Mike is 6"5'...right!!!! i know!!!!!
well we put the jacket on and she looked great in the jacket... but we both said this is not right because WDW is not a girl and and not 5'1"....
So0000000..... we called the pattern maker in to redo the pattern...well to give you an idea who our pattern maker is...have you seen GAS MONKEY GARAGE?..Well, i swear our pattern maker is Sue's sister [ASM Auto Upholstery]..HAAA.looks just like her and acts like her....and Mike is always given her a hard time and tring to get free pattern work from her....sometimes she does and sometimes she won't...well this time she charged us and told us the jacket pattern was no good..Mike told her she was "crazy" and said the customer was right...
after a heated debate..she yelled at Mike in Chinese and Mike yelled at her in Redneck..Haaa..!!!!
so in the end we did not get the new spec pattern and pissed her off....i had to take her to "Dim Sum" Breakfast [ chicken feet and all!!!!! ] the following Sunday, after church, to calm things down....
.....but i swear we should have a reality TV show of the both of them....
fun thing ...she is always calling him "Mark" all the time..i think she can not say "Mike" haaaaa..drives him crazy!!!!.
next time...i will make sure we get the spec down so our customer is happy.....
even if i have to eat chicken feet....!!!! HAAAA
just as a side note..she charge us double for the new M Brando jacket patterns....F#$king Mike!!!!!...I still love him...
Cheers
Ciano
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 13, 2015 23:00:57 GMT -6
benjaminpersitz, is it too late to change your order details? In my emails to Ciano about the length, I focussed on leather jacket companies doing base of collar to hem, but I forgot that IH and I'm sure G are the same. I've never had a jacket come in short before, and remember I added 0.5" to the standard length, so this would have been even shorter. But to repeat, Ciano was cool about exchanging it and didn't try to wriggle out of it. This is just another example of how important fit diagrams are, and to be fair to IH they put a link on each item, along with specific item quirks, which must be the gold standard of fit guides. I'm not sure. I think my jacket is pretty much done. Ciano, is it super short? I think a section on the website showing how you take each measurement would be good. I just went off G measurement style, haha. |
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Post by youwinatlife on Jun 14, 2015 3:26:16 GMT -6
Funny Story... after a heated debate..she yelled at Mike in Chinese and Mike yelled at her in Redneck..Haaa..!!!! so in the end we did not get the new spec pattern and pissed her off....i had to take her to "Dim Sum" Breakfast [ chicken feet and all!!!!! ] the following Sunday, after church, to calm things down.... fun thing ...she is always calling him "Mark" all the time..i think she can not say "Mike" haaaaa..drives him crazy!!!!. next time...i will make sure we get the spec down so our customer is happy..... even if i have to eat chicken feet....!!!! HAAAA just as a side note..she charge us double for the new M Brando jacket patterns....F#$king Mike!!!!!...I still love him... ciano - these stories are hands down my favourite part of this forum. chicken feet jackets and whiskey jeans, i love it. |
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Post by Whiskey Mercenary on Jun 14, 2015 9:32:15 GMT -6
I must be crazy because I think it looks pretty good!
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Post by Griffin on Jun 15, 2015 4:17:13 GMT -6
The way you wear the pants, i think the jacket is perfect in length both front and back. Longer and it will completely cover the frontpockets, and I hate when the back covers the start of the backpockets, so looks fine on photos!
But I agree that the shoulder seem is to narrow. Your shoulders go way beoynd them. Some is ok, but this is too much.
The boxiness will go away with wear, remember fellas, this is heavy stuff and needs breaking in!
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Post by wdw on Jun 15, 2015 5:39:39 GMT -6
Griffin, these are Ciano's 905 trousers, so the highest rise around. On anything else the belt would be shown. Also, I'm standing still, and any movement would drag it up again. Add to that the shrinkage that seems to happen to canvas once it sniffs water, and there's no room for manoeuvre at all. Also, the short length means that any layering would push it up further. Ciano's going to adjust the design, so I hope he'll add maybe 1.5-2" to the shoulders, as that will lose the boxy look. That, plus 1-1.5" on the length and this jacket will be a killer.
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Post by Griffin on Jun 15, 2015 6:24:41 GMT -6
I would wear lowest rise you use, then measure to the belt and add 0.5". My jackets seems to rise up.
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Post by whiskeyriver on Jun 15, 2015 7:52:10 GMT -6
Adding to the boxiness is the arm width. Too wide for my tastes. It doesn't have that "fitted" look. But maybe you like the wide arms?
EDIT: In fact, looking at their site, all the arms of all the jackets seem to be way wider than I think is necessary/appropriate...at least for me.
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Post by wdw on Jun 15, 2015 8:03:28 GMT -6
Adding to the boxiness is the arm width. Too wide for my tastes. It doesn't have that "fitted" look. But maybe you like the wide arms? Yeah, the arms are relatively wide, but if the shoulders and length had been right for me, then I could have lived with the arms. The arms are possibly based on the Car Coat, which is wide all over, and maybe more likely to have a second layer underneath. It'll be interesting to see what changes Ciano makes to the design, but how he'll find the time is beyond me, as he seems to have a full and expanding order book. Having said that, it's good to see him taking the time to post all these detailed pics of completed items, as it shows he takes pride in his work. |
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