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Post by giles on Feb 7, 2016 20:35:24 GMT -6
These are heavy at 10oz, but not UHF which is 12oz. The fabric is indigo dyed selvedge check made by a tiny house mill. The fabric is skewed, so much so that we have to give up the idea of making workshirts (fabric.pattern misalignment is much more noticeable on a workshirt than on a western). Even so, we have had to remake all the westerns, basically we have moved and changed the shape of the pockets so that the eye is deceived into thinking the skew does not exist.
IHUK will be stocking them as will may western retailers. They will go live on on IHUK Friday of this week.
XXL and XXXL are very rarely made for the domestic Japanese market. Usually if there any available it is because Haraki has made extras in the larger sizes in case any fail QC...
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Post by giles on Feb 7, 2016 3:12:10 GMT -6
We do....
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Post by giles on Feb 7, 2016 0:19:34 GMT -6
I saw. Thanks.....Just so you know, the 101's that are being restocked are from the original batch that we had to recall. They are perfect, but have black constructional stitched, not the grey that the later batch were sewn with.....
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Post by giles on Feb 6, 2016 23:47:26 GMT -6
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Post by giles on Feb 6, 2016 6:09:32 GMT -6
May rerun this too........
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Post by giles on Feb 6, 2016 3:11:23 GMT -6
I am getting some in next week from a retailer who was struggling to shift them, so I bought them back off him...
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Post by giles on Feb 6, 2016 1:52:12 GMT -6
giles - more people access? Seems IH products are pretty exclusive in the retail world. With today's global economy, internet shopping and lack of brick and mortar locations and all anyone with an internet connection can access the store. There are not that many retailers, but at least there are some places that people can go and touch, feel them and try Iron Heart gear on. There is a broad section of our customer base who would never buy without trying something on, so having a retailer network, however small is surely better than none. And here's the rub, even at the prices we retail our stuff for the margins for retailers are at the very limit of what they will accept, I am constantly urged by our western retailers to raise prices and increase margins. And the margins we make from retailers are so pathetically small, we do not have scope to reduce wholesale. One of the reasons there are not more retailers is that when I tell them what the margins are, they suddenly lose interest. There are only two ways we could reduce retail prices, 1) is to stop selling through retailers full stop, and personally I don't think that is a good thing, so it won't happen. 2) Stop investing in developing new products (see list in my post a few pages above), reduce our cost base and thus be able to reduce wholesale prices. And again I don't think that's a good thing, so that won't happen either. Well, there is a third and that is Haraki gets rid of me and starts selling directly to western retailers, but 1) He does not have a clue how to do that and 2) His job is to dream up great new shit, design it and make it. His answer when asked what relationship is there between him and me.... "I make it, Giles sells it"....
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Post by giles on Feb 5, 2016 18:47:25 GMT -6
I explained the retail model a few weeks ago. I made the decision to have a retail network, I think that's a good thing because it gives more people access to the brand. To support a retail network, you have to allow the retailers to make a sufficient margin for them to bother taking the product. The prices we charge are the minimum that we can to have any real retailer interest. I could drop the prices, then you would see all the real retailers drop Iron Heart and we'd be left with a few hobbyists who don't understand retail and they'd soon go bust.
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Post by giles on Feb 5, 2016 9:44:19 GMT -6
It was not me who came up with the term haters. It was posted a few posts above by someone else.....
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Post by giles on Feb 5, 2016 5:51:54 GMT -6
Haters want to hate, not much any of us can do about that. Personally I don't mind if people get off on hating me and what I do because by my my set of principles, I run a fair, open and honest business. But hating or otherwise knocking, shows a complete lack of understanding running an international business, so it is actually quite sad if entertaining.
For the record, if it was not for my partnership with Haraki, you would not have:
25oz denim 18oz denim 17oz denim 14oz denim Indigo/Indigo denim The current slew of UHF's (Haraki had given up on these years ago until I urged him to go find the original weaver. The 666 cut in all its iterations The 555 cut in all its iterations The 777 cut in all its iterations The 1955 cut in all its iterations The IHXB01 cut in all its iterations Dozens of shirts Loads of cut and sewn Many jackets
I could go on ad nauseum, but I guess you get the idea.
Designing, developing. sampling, testing etc etc, of this stuff, is a cost borne by IHUK. None of the Rakuten stores make this sort of investment, indeed, many of them don't really carry stock
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Post by giles on Feb 5, 2016 0:27:36 GMT -6
Probably black.
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Post by giles on Feb 4, 2016 19:21:00 GMT -6
Likely we will be be doing this in a work and charcoal in both a work and a western....
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Post by giles on Jan 19, 2016 9:52:12 GMT -6
In production, but likely to be 2 or 3 months....
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Post by giles on Jan 17, 2016 2:01:27 GMT -6
Alright fellas, here's the UHF release schedule for 2016. Excited to see some good releases in Japan. All westerns in Japan. Damn ! I'm going to be kicking myself for not nabbing a blue 126. When it says Japan, it means the shirt will be released in Japan as well as available outside of Japan.....
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Post by giles on Jan 8, 2016 7:25:07 GMT -6
Generously sized (designed to wear over motor cycle leathers), Giles wears L (but would wear M over just a t-shirt)
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Post by giles on Jan 5, 2016 14:39:38 GMT -6
I'm 6' 2" and usually wear mid to high rise jeans, the 02DD is a lot better length than the 02's.....
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Post by giles on Jan 5, 2016 14:18:54 GMT -6
Denim is a twill weave. By it's very nature it is designed to deform (and therefore mould to an individual), that is one of the reasons we love denim jeans as much as we do.
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Post by giles on Jan 5, 2016 14:15:27 GMT -6
It's also a little bit longer than the Wabashes, not that that matters. We made this one longer as we were specifically asked to increase the length vis-à-vis the wabash 02's.......
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Post by giles on Jan 5, 2016 3:23:20 GMT -6
34 will get you there, but it will be tough going to start with.
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Post by giles on Jan 5, 2016 1:51:53 GMT -6
The 633 and the 777 are the only cuts with any real taper.
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Post by giles on Jan 4, 2016 6:41:22 GMT -6
They will be on the IHUK website probably sometime next week, New UHF's (in fact all new products) are announced in the members area of the Iron Heart Forum.
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Post by giles on Jan 4, 2016 1:57:06 GMT -6
Nope, it's one Paula & I dreamt up. When I commission a product, it is normally not sold in Japan unless Haraki pleads enough (like the 25 ounce jeans)......There are a slew of UHF's happening this year, that will not be sold in Japan....
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Post by giles on Jan 4, 2016 1:53:01 GMT -6
Picked up the IHSH-99 in medium. It's the OD shirt/jacket. I thought I'd have to wait till March for a restock according to Giles. Saw it show up in my size and could not order fast enough. Already have the 12oz IHSH-33 and it is awesome. My IH collection grows, six shirts and four bottoms, as my wallet shrinks. But my god it is great stuff! I've been looking at that one for a long time now. How do you like it? Did you size up on it or go with your usual IH shirt size? How warm is it? You have to size up 1 size. The overdying process shrinks the crap out of the denim. That is why I make it up to XXXXL as all sizes are approx 1 size small
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Post by giles on Jan 4, 2016 1:46:28 GMT -6
Picked up the IHSH-99 in medium. It's the OD shirt/jacket. I thought I'd have to wait till March for a restock according to Giles. Saw it show up in my size and could not order fast enough. Already have the 12oz IHSH-33 and it is awesome. My IH collection grows, six shirts and four bottoms, as my wallet shrinks. But my god it is great stuff! Ah, we got some shirts back from the pop-up in Cologne. As it was not a ""proper restock, they went into stock without me sending out the "tell me when back in stock" emails - sorry
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Post by giles on Dec 31, 2015 2:16:33 GMT -6
The simple fact is that when we get a run of jeans, maybe 15/30 per size, there is a bell curve of variance around the mean (the published size). Because we measure each pair before sending out to customers, when we are down to the last pair or two, we end up with the ones with the largest variance....It also often works to our customers advantage because our regulars know they can ask for The XX Tagged pair with te largest waist of the YY pair with the smallest thigh etc etc...
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