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Post by DigDug on Jan 12, 2016 21:06:50 GMT -6
Couldn't find a thread on this.
I now have a TS canvas WorkShirt. But it's a bit big. Have any of you had Darts put on the back to synch it up a little? Do you think it would work? Understandable not completely fix, but would it help?
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Post by stinky on Jan 13, 2016 12:43:02 GMT -6
DigDug, Yeah, I think it would work, however, there are a couple of pitfalls I can think of: 1. i'd avoid too large of a dart because you'd end up with a lot bigger panel on the front than on the back if you get to aggressive with it. 2. you'd need to remove the entire scoop hem first, then dart, then redo the scoop hem, otherwise, it would look like crap. 3. place the darts in a manner so that they look like the are part of the shirt design. I recently redid the front hem/scoop of a j.crew flannel workshirt that was comically long in the front (the front of the shirt was 1.5" LONGER than the back); it was surprisingly easy and looks perfect. The key is to work slowly and iron out your folds carefully and precisely. If I were you, I'd iron some darts in, pin them in place, and wear around the house first to see if you get the change you are looking for.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 13, 2016 13:27:26 GMT -6
Interesting. This is from a blog post I saw recently. putthison.com/tagged/Q-%26-AnswerI'd say no. It will look odd on a work shirt. Have a tailor take in the side seams.
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Post by tashdaddy on Jan 24, 2016 3:34:10 GMT -6
I also have a question about tailoring... If you drop $100 or $200+ on one piece, is there a highly recommended method for hemming or tailoring, or would dropping it off at a local tailor do? I've heard of people sending their stuff to Railcar to have them do the job, which seems understandable if the difference is great enough. Thoughts?
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Post by exophobe on Jan 24, 2016 9:09:14 GMT -6
I also have a question about tailoring... If you drop $100 or $200+ on one piece, is there a highly recommended method for hemming or tailoring, or would dropping it off at a local tailor do? I've heard of people sending their stuff to Railcar to have them do the job, which seems understandable if the difference is great enough. Thoughts? You'll most likely need to use a specialty denim shop if you want to retain a chain-stitch hem -- most tailors will not have a machine to do this. If you've bought denim over 15-17oz, you're really taking your life in your hands going to a normal tailor, but many will tell you when they don't think they can handle the fabric weight (unless they really need the work). DO NOT request original hem. Logically, if you haven't looked it up, it will seem like they're asking if you want the same sort of hem, and you'll say yes, then you'll pick them up and wonder why in hell they would ever do what they've done to a pair of jeans. If you're not attached to chain-stitch, and haven't bought anything very heavy, you should be able to find someone locally who can hem a pair of jeans without much trouble. If past experience on this forum is any indicator, if the tailor indicates that you're out of your mind for spending what you did on a pair of jeans, go somewhere else.
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Post by DigDug on Jan 24, 2016 10:15:45 GMT -6
I also have a question about tailoring... If you drop $100 or $200+ on one piece, is there a highly recommended method for hemming or tailoring, or would dropping it off at a local tailor do? I've heard of people sending their stuff to Railcar to have them do the job, which seems understandable if the difference is great enough. Thoughts? I always warm Soak my jeans before getting hemmed. They could shrink giving you high waters. If your double cuffing, it doesn't matter (IMO) how you get them hemmed. If your not or going to wear a single cuff, a lot will depend on how True you want to be to Raw Denim. For many only a Chain Stitch cuff is exceptable. If that's the case you will need to send them out to be done (RailCar, AB Fits). If not then most any tailor can give you a lock stitch (I think that's what's it's called)
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Post by tashdaddy on Jan 25, 2016 2:55:17 GMT -6
exophobe, DigDug, thanks this is very helpful. How about for slimming / tapering? I'm guessing similar rules of thumb apply?
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Post by DigDug on Jan 25, 2016 9:30:06 GMT -6
exophobe, DigDug, thanks this is very helpful. How about for slimming / tapering? I'm guessing similar rules of thumb apply? Yes, RailCar or ABFits. If you were to bring them to a local tailor, they would do it like a normal pair of pants. They would cut the ID off. It's a pain and another expense to have it done right. But if you don't you'll end up with a pair of screwed up jeans that you paid good $ money for that you Never will wear. I have 3 pairs like that.
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Post by mkeview on Jan 25, 2016 11:06:45 GMT -6
Indigogene is offering those services as well. I asked about it and he said he already tested on 23oz. Might be another good option. I didn't get a price quote though.
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Post by tashdaddy on Jan 30, 2016 12:41:39 GMT -6
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Post by exophobe on Jan 30, 2016 13:07:06 GMT -6
The seller mis-spoke, those are darts, not pleats. They can certainly be put back in if you find you want a slimmer fit. Pleats are a horrible thing that should not be mentioned.
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Post by tashdaddy on Jan 31, 2016 6:35:58 GMT -6
pleated raw selvedge denim - a horrible trend coming 2021
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Post by devastitis on Feb 24, 2016 17:35:48 GMT -6
I need to get my Japan 21s/IH-816/Japan Umbers hemmed. Is it a must to soak them first? I'm planning on shipping them off to Manny tomorrow.
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Post by DigDug on Feb 24, 2016 17:44:27 GMT -6
I need to get my Japan 21s/IH-816/Japan Umbers hemmed. Is it a must to soak them first? I'm planning on shipping them off to Manny tomorrow. For me Yes. I didn't for my RailCars (16oz Cone). After hemming and a few more wears I washed (tub, warm water) and they ended up shrinking an inch. I still like them and wear frequently but they are a little high water, so I just make sure I'm wearing nice boots.
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Post by Old26 on Feb 24, 2016 17:48:18 GMT -6
I need to get my Japan 21s/IH-816/Japan Umbers hemmed. Is it a must to soak them first? I'm planning on shipping them off to Manny tomorrow. For me Yes. I didn't for my RailCars (16oz Cone). After hemming and a few more wears I washed (tub, warm water) and they ended up shrinking an inch. I still like them and wear frequently but they are a little high water, so I just make sure I'm wearing nice boots. I would never hem without soaking or washing first. Mine def lost some length. Didn't measure tho.
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Post by gaseousclay on Feb 24, 2016 18:57:46 GMT -6
Agree about washing/soaking before hemming. I've always cold soaked my jeans and then hang dried but from now on I'm gonna do a hot soak/hang dry before hemming. It's weird because I thought I had gotten most of the shrinkage out with a cold soak on my G American Standards but when I gave them their first cold machine wash I swear they shrunk in the inseam a little more. It's not noticeable to the eye but I'm used to the way my cuffs drape over my shoes.
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Post by exophobe on Feb 24, 2016 19:26:24 GMT -6
I need to get my Japan 21s/IH-816/Japan Umbers hemmed. Is it a must to soak them first? I'm planning on shipping them off to Manny tomorrow. might as well wait for your taupes to show up at this point.
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Post by exophobe on Feb 24, 2016 19:29:42 GMT -6
I forgot to address your actual question... I don't have a single pair of raw denim that hasn't lost at least an inch post-wash. Pretty much every one is a little different, so it's definitely a good idea to run them through whatever your future cleaning routine will be at least once before you permanently alter them.
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Post by devastitis on Feb 24, 2016 19:39:19 GMT -6
dammit..I guess I have to soak them tonight then. exophobe: the Japan 21s are just insanely long, and the Japan Umbers are straights so the hem is too much of a PitA to cuff. The Taupes/Raw Umbers/Grey Silks should all be fine as slims.
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Post by gaseousclay on Feb 24, 2016 21:23:15 GMT -6
I should add that I do make certain exceptions when it comes to soaking jeans before hemming. My 3sixteen's are both slim fit. My st-100x are snug as it is so if I did a soak and then hem I'm certain I won't be able to get them on. So those will likely get no soak and just a hem, unless I double cuff. Same with my st-140x. My 3 other pairs of Gustin's would probably be safe with a hot soak since those have bigger thighs
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Post by tashdaddy on Apr 28, 2016 10:42:51 GMT -6
Can anyone talk me out of buying my most favorite pair of jeans I have ever seen, at 25oz, in a size maybe 3" too big for my waist, in hopes of getting them tailored down to my size (maybe by railcar or a b fits) ?
There appear to be only 2 pairs of these jeans left anywhere for sale, and never to be reproduced, thus my dilemma.
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Post by matt on Apr 28, 2016 10:50:33 GMT -6
Can anyone talk me out of buying my most favorite pair of jeans I have ever seen, at 25oz, in a size maybe 3" too big for my waist, in hopes of getting them tailored down to my size (maybe by railcar or a b fits) ? There appear to be only 2 pairs of these jeans left anywhere for sale, and never to be reproduced, thus my dilemma. Well, 2 options: start eating (or drinking) a lot. Honestly, can they take a jean down 3 sizes? It would essentially be a complete disassemble and reassemble to do that. And given the weight, you may be paying a lot from AB Fits...(assuming they take the order because of the weight). The alternative could be inquiring with Manny (Indigogene) to quote the work.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2016 10:52:49 GMT -6
Can anyone talk me out of buying my most favorite pair of jeans I have ever seen, at 25oz, in a size maybe 3" too big for my waist, in hopes of getting them tailored down to my size (maybe by railcar or a b fits) ? There appear to be only 2 pairs of these jeans left anywhere for sale, and never to be reproduced, thus my dilemma. I'd think considering places balk at simply hemming denim that heavy that you'd run into a wall finding a place willing to tailor them. Even if you did, altering the top block that much could cause the final silhouette to be strange.
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Post by seth on Apr 28, 2016 12:18:30 GMT -6
Can anyone talk me out of buying my most favorite pair of jeans I have ever seen, at 25oz, in a size maybe 3" too big for my waist, in hopes of getting them tailored down to my size (maybe by railcar or a b fits) ? There appear to be only 2 pairs of these jeans left anywhere for sale, and never to be reproduced, thus my dilemma. Ok, I'll try to talk you out of it. It is an absolutely terrible idea. It will cost a lot and probably not fit correctly. You are not talking about a hem or even a leg taper. You are talking about pulling in the waist 3 sizes. This is asking for disaster. All ratios will be wrong for the rest of the jeans. The entire jeans would have to be reworked. You are probably over excited because you think the jeans will never be reproduced. There is always a new heavyweight offering from every vendor out there - nearly ever year or so. Look at Gustin, Iron Heart, Samurai, etc. for the last 10 years. New 23 oz + offering in new fits every year. If denim makers stopped new product offerings, the whole retail system would collapse. Wait and buy something that fits you correctly. (What is this mystery never-to-be-made again pair of jeans?) Edit: Also fewer and fewer companies will even do the modifications. E.g. You mentioned railcar - they won't modify 25 oz any more. Edit: I personally have done less invasive modifications at least twice and regretted the outcome and cost both times.
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Post by tashdaddy on Apr 28, 2016 14:18:50 GMT -6
thanks you guys... y'all are working me down
the pair is the Old Blue Co. 5th Anniversary Ultimate Beast's... I've just never seen a pair so hairy and neppy before. I don't know how to describe it but even the Oni Secret's aren't as beautiful.......
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