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Post by bentin on Dec 7, 2017 21:52:58 GMT -6
Not a Type III fan at all, but that's kinda tempting. As stated, would be a lot cooler if it were selvedge.
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Post by nate001 on Dec 8, 2017 7:42:50 GMT -6
This sashiko fabric looks great. I'd be tempted to pick up a pair if I had more confidence in their sizing. The one pair of pants I purchased from them was unreasonably small in the thigh. There used to be a local stockist for me (Martin Patrick 3), but they seem to be phasing out their RgT stock. I'd like to try on their stuff so I had a better idea of how the SK/stanton fit. I have a trip to Seattle planned in a few months. Maybe I'll have to go to Blue Owl and try some stuff on.
EDIT:
Not the right thread, but if I can only go to one clothing store in Seattle, do I go to Blue Owl or Division Road, or something else? I will be travelling there with my old college roommates who are likely to give me unending shit for even going to one store, much less two.
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Post by jasutinsan on Dec 8, 2017 8:58:13 GMT -6
I think BO might have a wider selection? But I would go to whatever store I wanted, including Division Road. Regarding the sashikos....I’m in the same boat. I have never worn SKs or Stanton’s, and the difference between the two in their fit charts for these is very small, a size 34 Stanton compared to a 34 SK is an inch in the waist, an inch in the knee, a half inch at the hem, and a half inch in the rear rise. I have been waiting for these since their F/W lookbook was released, but have now decided I’d have to try these on, which seems like an unlikely proposition. I might just finally pick up a pair of Oni Blacks instead....one last selfish grab before the holidays.....I hope somebody here grabs these though! disheveled? |
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Post by matt on Dec 8, 2017 9:25:15 GMT -6
I have the Nep SK's that I picked up from BO. They are definitely a more narrow thigh with the slim fit, but I really love the fit. They have gotten ridiculously soft and have easily stretched more with wear.
As for the Sashiko's - I bet they are going to look interesting when they fade. I'm hopeful the thread is a somewhat equal fader to the indigo-dyed cloth. Otherwise, we may end up with a reverse-jacquard look on the pants (it could either be awesome or end very badly).
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Post by bentin on Dec 8, 2017 9:43:05 GMT -6
I have SKs and Stantons. Top block is similar if you do equal waist sizes in terms of hips and front and rear rise. However the thigh is certainly tighter on SKs and the taper is much stronger. Stantons are a straight fit with a relatively large cuff, SKs are much slimmer, very similar to Gustin Slim with about an inch more rear rise and about 3/4" less cuff. It's easily my favorite fit.
I like the Sashikos, but prefer the Blue Owl collaboration for being selvedge, having a cooler weft and unsanforized plus a very slightly relaxed SK fit compared to the sanforized SK fit.
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Post by jasutinsan on Dec 8, 2017 9:44:01 GMT -6
I think they’ll look pretty stellar when they start to fade. I do think sashiko thread will fade all over faster during washes than the rest, but the cloth itself is made of rope dyed threads so you’ll also get typical fades with that.
The fit is just not there for me.
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Post by northcoast on Dec 8, 2017 10:28:46 GMT -6
I have SKs and Stantons. Top block is similar if you do equal waist sizes in terms of hips and front and rear rise. However the thigh is certainly tighter on SKs and the taper is much stronger. Stantons are a straight fit with a relatively large cuff, SKs are much slimmer, very similar to Gustin Slim with about an inch more rear rise and about 3/4" less cuff. It's easily my favorite fit. I like the Sashikos, but prefer the Blue Owl collaboration for being selvedge, having a cooler weft and unsanforized plus a very slightly relaxed SK fit compared to the sanforized SK fit. Thanks for that. When looking at the fit charts, I was thinking Stanton, but I wear G slims all the time so maybe SK. 3/4" shorter to me means no cuff though. |
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Post by bentin on Dec 8, 2017 11:11:08 GMT -6
My G Slims in 35 have a cuff near 8.25, while my 33 SKs are between 7.5 and 7.75. It's probably closer to a half inch difference, but they look a lot more tapered than the Gustins. The extra rear rise is also greatly appreciated. Looking at the G fit guide, it's possible that my pair are wildly over spec. They've been hot washed and hot dried to little benefit.
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Post by matt on Dec 16, 2017 20:02:02 GMT -6
My RgTxBO SK's arrived today. Really nice alternative to the indigo options. The slubiness is somewhat hairy, which is a welcome variation. They don't feel as heavy as my Tanuki's (16.5 oz), despite being 16.75 oz. However, they feel more "dense" due to their initial rigidity out of the bag. I had BO hem these to 33" to give me roughly a 31-31.5 inseam. When they arrived, they included the cut pieces, which were only 1" in width - so they weren't 35" on the inseam.
Regarding pre-soak specs, they were pretty favorable. Not exact, but here's a quick breakdown of this pair:
STOCK (inches) SIZE 31
W: 33"
FR: 9.75"
TH: 11.85" (note: measured per BO specs)
K: 7.85"
LO: 7"
IN: 35.5"
ARRIVED
W: 33"
FR: 10"
TH: 11.5"
K: 7.875" (7 7/8)
LO: 7.1875" (7 3/16)
IN: 32.75"
Given the nature of the fit when I got them, and knowing how I like these to fit (they already fit in the waist, rise, top block), I opted to soak mid-thigh down to shrink up the inseam a little. I did a about 30-40 minutes in lukewarm water. Here's how they ended up:
POST SOAK:
W: 33" (No soak)
FR: 10" (No soak)
TH: 11.5" (No change)
K: 7.375" (7 3/8)
LO: 6.875" (6 7/8)
IN: 30.75"
This is right about where I want them for initial break-in. 2/2 with my RgT SK's in terms of fit. And no indigo came off in the tub during the initial soak.
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Post by matt on Dec 16, 2017 20:03:14 GMT -6
And bentin, my iPhone 7 fits w/case in the front pocket - I have about 1/4" of space from phone to the top of the pocket. |
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Post by kkozel on Jan 7, 2018 14:50:52 GMT -6
anyone jump on the tapered cut? looks like solid measurements.
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Post by bentin on Jan 7, 2018 15:55:35 GMT -6
anyone jump on the tapered cut? looks like solid measurements. Doesn't do a thing for me, Stantons are already too baggy. |
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Post by ncbluegrass on Jan 11, 2018 16:03:05 GMT -6
How much stretch could I assume from a pair of SK 14.5oz?
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Post by bentin on Jan 11, 2018 16:18:06 GMT -6
How much stretch could I assume from a pair of SK 14.5oz? waist? probably an inch. if you care, the new 15.25 is definitely a little cooler. |
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Post by kkozel on Jan 11, 2018 19:45:51 GMT -6
i pulled trigger on them (the tapered) reminds me a lot of the tanuki II fabric I couldn't get over my calf. The cut works for me - after a soak its pretty close to a 633 for me, but feels a lot looser given the fabric.
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Post by bentin on Jan 11, 2018 20:06:37 GMT -6
i pulled trigger on them (the tapered) reminds me a lot of the tanuki II fabric I couldn't get over my calf. The cut works for me - after a soak its pretty close to a 633 for me, but feels a lot looser given the fabric. yeah, they are pretty similar cuts. |
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Post by ncbluegrass on Jan 12, 2018 7:38:11 GMT -6
How much stretch could I assume from a pair of SK 14.5oz? waist? probably an inch. if you care, the new 15.25 is definitely a little cooler. I can't seem to find many wear pics of the 15oz. are they new? I'm looking for a new pair to replace my G Okayamas. |
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Post by ncbluegrass on Jan 12, 2018 7:39:06 GMT -6
i pulled trigger on them (the tapered) reminds me a lot of the tanuki II fabric I couldn't get over my calf. The cut works for me - after a soak its pretty close to a 633 for me, but feels a lot looser given the fabric. the 14oz or the 15oz? |
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Post by bentin on Jan 12, 2018 9:41:20 GMT -6
i pulled trigger on them (the tapered) reminds me a lot of the tanuki II fabric I couldn't get over my calf. The cut works for me - after a soak its pretty close to a 633 for me, but feels a lot looser given the fabric. the 14oz or the 15oz? Check Instagram, lots of posts here: www.instagram.com/explore/tags/rgt15ozfc/I have both jeans and stopped wearing my Oki because they're just too tightly woven and not that comfortable. The RgT are a lot looser weave and significantly cooler and more versatile. Karl replaced the 14.5 with the proprietary 15.25 about a year or year and a half ago. While both denims are cool, the biggest change for me is that at the same time, Karl made the pocket bags a wee bit bigger, so my stupid iPhone 7+ fits in the newer jeans but sticks up about a cm from the older ones. |
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Post by ncbluegrass on Jan 12, 2018 10:52:31 GMT -6
That's exactly how I feel about my Oki. I love the color, but i feel like I have to force myself to wear them.
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Post by bentin on Jan 12, 2018 10:58:04 GMT -6
That's exactly how I feel about my Oki. I love the color, but i feel like I have to force myself to wear them. Doesn't hurt that the SK fit is pretty similar to G Slim with about an inch more rear rise and a half inch less cuff, pretty ideal for me. |
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Post by ncbluegrass on Jan 12, 2018 11:00:53 GMT -6
Agreed. I'll order both a 30 and 31 and see what fits best.
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Post by bentin on Jan 12, 2018 11:06:34 GMT -6
Agreed. I'll order both a 30 and 31 and see what fits best. I'm between a 33 and a 34. 34s are the easy fit and 33s are a bit of work at first, but better once they stretch out a little bit. |
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Post by nate001 on Jan 15, 2018 11:31:43 GMT -6
All right, I'm picking up this query in the appropriate thread. If I'm a true 36 waist and a 35 slim in G chinos and denim (with good fits in the thigh) am I gonna be OK in a tag size 33 in the copper canvas officer trousers? The 12.25" thigh is making me nervous.
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Post by bentin on Jan 15, 2018 11:41:19 GMT -6
PM sent. I have a pair of 33's you're welcome to try. They're a wee bit tight on my pudgy legs. 33 SK's and Selvedge Officer Trousers both work great, but Karl tightened up the fit for non selvedge for some reason.
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